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vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:13 am

where the hell do I get new seat adjusters from. Its those weird looking cam things inside the front seat bases.

Mine are rooted regardless of the rest of the seat looking NOS. :?

Anyone have any ideas? they are made from gay die cast and would explain how they wore so fast despite hardly being driven.

supaninja Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:18 am

your best bet is to have a local machine shop make a new one. my drivers seat has a bad cam too.

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:43 pm

hmmmm....??


Bert!.... BERT! make us some :lol:

haha jk

flyinglow94 Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:10 pm

I wonder if they could or should be machined on more of an eccentric to recline a little more? I am re doing my seat and might need to answer that for my self.

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:49 pm

Yes they could a little bit more.

My idea is to have them CNC from steel and also have a weld on slot in solid thick steel to give exponentially more surface area to contact, say? 10-12mm wide instead of the few mm of the seat base frame. I noticed this thin and sharp slot just cut straight through the cam's sleeve.


there is ample room for an additional slot to be welded on.

68notch Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:57 pm

Just a thought to try and fit the passenger side one to the drivers side even if it needs some modification. I guess the passenger side ones are probably quite good in comparison?

KTPhil Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:00 pm

Traditional weak point in the seat design. Hard to source used ones that aren't also trashed.

Unless the owner was religous about leaning the seatback forward while adjusting (or if there was only one driver who never adjusted it!), the friction wore the cam surfaces out quickly. Also, the part that bears down on it doesn't cover the entire surface, concentrating the load. Just a very poor part design. A lot of load on the knob and roll pin holding it to the shaft, too.

I'd be up for buying a new one out of something stronger than the pot-metal the OEM parts are made of, as long as the price wasn't outrageous.

I wonder if this is a good candidate for one of those "metal printing" outfits, rather than requiring the complex machining or expensive casting mold other methods require.

Bobnotch Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:46 pm

Why not just take it to your local welder, and have him build them back up. You'll just need to find someone who welds aluminum. After all, that's how you repair "pot metal". :wink:

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:51 pm

68notch wrote: Just a thought to try and fit the passenger side one to the drivers side even if it needs some modification. I guess the passenger side ones are probably quite good in comparison?

nah, buggered too.

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:54 pm

KTPhil wrote: Traditional weak point in the seat design. Hard to source used ones that aren't also trashed.

Unless the owner was religous about leaning the seatback forward while adjusting (or if there was only one driver who never adjusted it!), the friction wore the cam surfaces out quickly. Also, the part that bears down on it doesn't cover the entire surface, concentrating the load. Just a very poor part design. A lot of load on the knob and roll pin holding it to the shaft, too.

I'd be up for buying a new one out of something stronger than the pot-metal the OEM parts are made of, as long as the price wasn't outrageous.

I wonder if this is a good candidate for one of those "metal printing" outfits, rather than requiring the complex machining or expensive casting mold other methods require.


you mean 3D printing?

68notch Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:00 pm

vlad01 wrote: 68notch wrote: Just a thought to try and fit the passenger side one to the drivers side even if it needs some modification. I guess the passenger side ones are probably quite good in comparison?

nah, buggered too.

Other type 3s?

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:11 pm

I never see any good ones.

All my other type 3 that I owned in the past with the earlier (non 73 seats) seat were shocking. So bad the the shafts were broken and I had spare tires behind to keep the seat back upright and not falling flat.


This is the first type 3 with the non 73 3 point seats where the seats back was still upright and I could actually sit in. :lol:

I think action needs to be taken, people we need steel repops kits.


Only person I can think of that has the capabilities to make them quality and in reasonable quantity is Bert? who else do you guys know?

68notch Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:41 pm

vlad01 wrote: I never see any good ones.

All my other type 3 that I owned in the past with the earlier (non 73 seats) seat were shocking. So bad the the shafts were broken and I had spare tires behind to keep the seat back upright and not falling flat.


This is the first type 3 with the non 73 3 point seats where the seats back was still upright and I could actually sit in. :lol:

I think action needs to be taken, people we need steel repops kits.


Only person I can think of that has the capabilities to make them quality and in reasonable quantity is Bert? who else do you guys know?

I could cast composite replicas that are full of metal powder and fibre for strength but that may not last either. It would appear original to look at though.

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:11 pm

:?


obviously this ain't a job for our country. We don't "manufacture" anymore.


What if we develop 3d cad drawing and send it to someone capable in the US for the machining?

supaninja Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:01 pm

I have been researching sand casting. It will be a hot minute but what about a cast bronze one?

BTW-we don't make anything anymore either :(

lad do you think Lanner could do it?

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:26 pm

I don't think bronze would be good either and its too soft like die cast alloy.

Lanner probably could do it?

flyinglow94 Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:20 pm

Bobnotch wrote: Why not just take it to your local welder, and have him build them back up. You'll just need to find someone who welds aluminum. After all, that's how you repair "pot metal". :wink:

I am thinking they break like the new car seats ( with some one trying to adjust them with there full weight on them when doing so). That is alot to ask from a Die cast or even an aluminum part.

If they are a Die cast alloy it is Hi in zinc like Hot Wheels. It melts at a much lower temp than aluminum. I guess I'm saying its not as easy as welding
aluminum.

supaninja wrote: I have been researching sand casting. It will be a hot minute but what about a cast bronze one?


BTW-we don't make anything anymore either :(

lad do you think Lanner could do it?

I have also been looking into building a small foundry to melt all of my aluminum. I have cut a 6"x 10" pipe for the crucible .I'm looking to buy the clay and cement maybe this weekend to start poring the foundry in a 26 gal compressor tank . It will be a while though, with all my other projects, Stay tuned.

BerT3 Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:37 pm

vlad01 wrote: hmmmm....??


Bert!.... BERT! make us some :lol:

haha jk

I have 2 NOS sets for mine - I can get you my old ones

BerT3

vlad01 Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:48 pm

BerT3 wrote: vlad01 wrote: hmmmm....??


Bert!.... BERT! make us some :lol:

haha jk

I have 2 NOS sets for mine - I can get you my old ones

BerT3

You should copy your NOS ones and repop heavy duty steel ones.

vlad01 Thu Nov 10, 2011 4:25 am

The colprit!



wow nos looking under here!





Good condition yeah?


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