TheSamba.com :: View topic - installation of connecting rods--Need HELP ASAP!

Sun Dec 11, 2011 6:53 am

Just rebuilding my first type1 motor and have heard that the conn rods have to be installed a certain way..."forging up" is this true? Does it really matter? block is already together and really dont want to tear apart again. I did notice there was a stamping on each rod...

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:05 am

Connecting rods are offset to prevent piston slap.there is a raised bar shaped mark on the rod,these have to go up.and the arrows on the pistons have to point toward the flywheel...pull it back down and check ...I know it sucks...

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:08 am

You don't need to split the case to change the rods around. You can sneak in the cylinder opening and undo the nuts. Just be very careful not to drop anything inside the case or you may be splitting it!!

Good thing you found this out before you finished the project!!

Follow Johnny's advice about installation.

What about the distributor drive? Is that already installed? IF so make sure the distributor is in before you start rotating that engine to get to the rod nuts.

Dave

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:09 am

yes it matters ,but you can get the rods out one at a time with the case together. they will have a mark casted into the rod it goes up and your locks go together on the bearing caps.the pistons have a arrow point that toward the flywheel.also when the rods are right the bearing locks will be toward the cam

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:24 am

Some after market rods don't have the raised 'nub' on the side. THEN you go with the "Tangs point down" rule. This means that both of the little cut-outs that hold the large end bearings are on the bottom when the rod is installed on the crank for that cylinder. The numbers on the cap and rod should match and be together. If rods have notches under the nuts, these were for peening the washers and locking down the nut after torquing the end caps. 8)

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:48 am

Thought this pic might help:

You can clearly see the "mark" on the (stock) bottom rod, along the middle of the shaft. The top one is an aftermarket without the "mark". But when compared with the stock rod you can see the bearing tabs will be on the bottom of the rod if the "mark" is on top.

There was also a note I found on a build site "I understand that the Cap markings should always be fitted so that they facing up i.e. on the top."

Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:51 am

wow, thanks for all the quick replies...just what I was afraid of...dammit! I will tear apart again and check...I did "learn" about the distributor yesterday while assembling.

Last question...the block is on my motor stand now. Should the rod casting marks face up or down? They are all stock rods with casting marks..

Funny thing is, I can rebuild a 400BB Pontiac and Quadrajet blindfolded...I will figure this out..

Gonna try to keep from splitting the block again.

Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:02 am

got it, just needed to read deeper. Casting marks face the top, toward the oil cooler...Will Loctite the nuts back on

Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:04 pm

Found one rod I had to change, but did not split the block...slowed me way down, but glad I rechecked...better safe than sorry.

Sun Dec 11, 2011 6:17 pm

were the pistons installed correctly?

Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:11 am

Yep, piston OK...just ht one rod backwards...real PITA to change with the block together..

Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:36 am

unholy68 wrote: Yep, piston OK...just ht one rod backwards...real PITA to change with the block together..

Nah they are a piece of cake :roll: They should be done everytime a top end is done,rod bearings do fail.

Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:43 am

agreed, used #9 lacing cord to hold the bottoms up from falling while removing the top half...kinda of a neat trick. Secured them onto the protruding bolt heads of the rodcap. I had a little side to side play in #3 rod, thats the one that failed before. Hoping shes OK! I polished the journal pretty well.

Now cant figure out how to make my accufire ignition fit into my dizzy...mounting stud and screw holes won't line up due to the dizzy shaft. Doesn't curve around it enough

Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:05 am

Rod bearings fail from oil starvation. Side play dimension is key to oil control.That being said a diesel oil product,like Delo 400 15/40, will help, it has a higher shear factor than conventional automotive engine oils...shear means it resists being wiped off by friction and will help 'save' that bearing.

Want a cure for your accufire issue? simple,it costs about 4 bucks and are available at any good autoparts house..its called "points" :lol:

Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:29 am

Yep, the PO indicated that he ran it dry of oil and it locked up. Rocked the car backwards in reverse to free it, but #3 rod bearing was completely gone. I was planning to use either the heavier weight oil or the Lucas oil additive to help correct some of the play in the journal..

BTW--points are back in for now...

Thanks for all your help!

Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:32 am

unholy68 wrote: agreed, used #9 lacing cord to hold the bottoms up from falling while removing the top half...kinda of a neat trick. Secured them onto the protruding bolt heads of the rodcap.
Did you make sure the tangs on the rod bearings were on the same side? Each bearing half has a single tang and they should be on the same side of the rod as in the above pic. The top rod has the bearings installed. The bottom one shows the notches in the rod and cap to make room for the tangs in the bearing halves.
If you just rotated the connecting rod but didn't rotate the cap... could the tangs be on opposite sides of the rod?

unholy68 wrote: I had a little side to side play in #3 rod, thats the one that failed before. Hoping shes OK! I polished the journal pretty well.
Did the side play exceed the max of 0.016" for the rod?

unholy68 wrote: Now cant figure out how to make my accufire ignition fit into my dizzy...mounting stud and screw holes won't line up due to the dizzy shaft. Doesn't curve around it enough
The accufire may seem like a universal electronic points module but I doubt it fits ALL Bosch distributors that came on Beetles. What model distributor are you running and which kit# did you get?
From what I can tell, the accufire will only fit the Bosch 009 distributors or any other distributor that uses the Bosch #01011 points.
Look at this chart to see if your model uses the same points part# (most late SVDA and DVDA distributors use the same points):
http://www.jbugs.com/category/vw-ignition-distributors-parts.html

Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:08 am

I did change both side of the rod bearings...everything is as its supposed to be. Had .0.12 of sideplay.

I have the 231 137 035 dizzy that utilizes the 01011 points, but the EMPI PN 00-9432-0 universal kit doesn't fit. I spoke to my parts guy and he suggested changing to a 009 for ease of use. He says the one I currently have is hard to keep in time...This true?

Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:08 pm

unholy68 wrote: I did change both side of the rod bearings...everything is as its supposed to be. Had .0.12 of sideplay.

I have the 231 137 035 dizzy that utilizes the 01011 points, but the EMPI PN 00-9432-0 universal kit doesn't fit. I spoke to my parts guy and he suggested changing to a 009 for ease of use. He says the one I currently have is hard to keep in time...This true?

No,he's fulla shit,tryin to sell ya a new distributor..a cheap chinese distributor

Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:23 pm

thanks johnnypan...he said he would trade me straight up for a used 009...think I'll stick with what i've got

Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:33 pm

johnnypan wrote: Rod bearings fail from oil starvation. Side play dimension is key to oil control.That being said a diesel oil product,like Delo 400 15/40, will help, it has a higher shear factor than conventional automotive engine oils...shear means it resists being wiped off by friction and will help 'save' that bearing.

Want a cure for your accufire issue? simple,it costs about 4 bucks and are available at any good autoparts house..its called "points" :lol:

How would you solve an excessive side clearance issue?