phlogiston |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:39 pm |
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back in august, i had the pleasure of meeting stacy (vwcrewman), the owner of performance auto glass. i was visiting northern california and had found a good deal on a new windshield. daunted by the installation, i hired stacy, who drove out to meet me (in his bad ass VW) and made quick work of the install.
asked about his level confidence in my re-used seal, he replied "it'll be fine, unless you plan to spend the winter in seattle". hmmm. i guess i should have mentioned that was precisely where i was moving...
fast forward a few months and now it's time to put that windshield in right. i've got a new seal on order, and i just spent the afternoon perusing all of stacy's posts, trying to figure out the right mix of sealants to use for this job. based on info from a few different threads, it sounds like i need 3 chemicals--a flexible sealant to go between the windshield and body, a urethane sealant to go between the glass and seal, and a primer so that the urethane will stick to the glass.
would anyone care to review this list as to the suitability of these products to fit those functions:
(all part numbers are 3M)
08509 bedding and glazing compound
this i believe is the correct (and optional) "metal to seal" adhesive
08682 single step primer
if i'm not mistaken this is the correct urethane primer?
08690 fast cure auto glass urethane
08693 auto glass urethane
both of these products seem compatible with the primer listed above. is one recommended over the other? the former seems cheaper and more readily available, but i can't imagine why i'd want a fast cure time for this application.
as for tools, i have heard that getting a new seal fitted can be tough. i saw one mention of a metal hooking tool used by professionals to aid installation... anyone know what this is and where i can get one? or is it just a right angle pick? |
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ftp2leta |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:13 pm |
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No sealant is needed, at all. |
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andy syncro-nutz |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:22 pm |
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EuroVan? |
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Basilbomb |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:25 pm |
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When I did mine I didn't use sealant and it didn't leak, and I live in the lower mainland. |
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phlogiston |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:29 pm |
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ftp2leta wrote: No sealant is needed, at all.
thanks for weighing in, ben. as always, it's good to hear your opinion, and i certainly respect it. however, i've decided for my own reasons to use sealant on both sides of the new seal (as a few other respected individuals recommend) and was more just looking for confirmation that i got the part numbers right, as my "shopping list" is based on information gleaned from several posts in several threads, none of which included part numbers.
and the van is a westy vanagon. |
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andy syncro-nutz |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:44 pm |
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Ive found that most water ingress on the vanagon windscreen comes from between the seal and body, Ive ran a flexible adhesive sealant through a caulking gun just under the seal when fitted, Sorry i have no part number as its just Tiger Seal to me, |
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alnvilma |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:45 pm |
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I had a new windshield installed reusing the seal. It leaked.
Had a new German seal put in. It leaked.
Shot a little window sealer under the gasket extending about 8" from the upper corners, only. No leaks!
I live in Portland (wet) and there was zero rust on the body/ windshield frame. |
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Terry Kay |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:30 pm |
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Urethane windshield mounting sealer.
This stuff is what the glazer's mount gasketless glass into newer, no gasket required vehicles.
If you don't want it ever to leak between the rubber & body this is the stuff. |
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WestyBob |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:44 pm |
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phlogiston wrote: fast forward a few months and now it's time to put that windshield in right.
I realize your looking for comfirmation of your list of items to get and also tools. Perhaps you should contact Stacy directly for this.
I've done a lot of personal glass installs myself and I use 3M urethane sealant between rubber and metal (no primer). I use nothing between rubber and glass ... never heard of leaks there unless the rubber splits. But I guess it couldn't hurt.
Tools: a string or fishing line, curved pliers to do slight pulls, sometimes a short flat screwdriver to carefully work some spots when necessary with a small cloth rag to prevent metal scratches. |
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Terry Kay |
Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:00 pm |
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There are several glass installation tools available that will make the job easier.
Plus--I use a Snap On Cotter pin puller that has the correct angle, the right point on it, and makes breaking the seal around the glass real simple.
Helps starting the rubber around the new glass too--- |
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insyncro |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:22 am |
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Sikaflex is an amazing sealant that can be used for so many differents jobs. |
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dubbified |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:17 am |
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I went and had the front windshield replaced, and got rather upset when they pumped the gills with sealant.
These window seals do not require sealant. I just dont get why people think they need to put that muck in there.
If anything, it provides a place to capture (with age) moisture, and cause a problem.
No sealant is needed.
They said.. it keeps the window from flying out..
Uh.. yea.. and monkeys fly. |
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insyncro |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:24 am |
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The upper and lower curves of the windshield opening are prime locations for water to get in....and it does on many vans, dripping onto the floor of the cabin and starting rust at the seal.
I seal them and have not had an issue with water since.
All window rubbers in the Vanagon had a thin line of black sealant used at the factory.
Sikaflex is the closest to stock sealant I have found.
Dont use sealant if you feel otherwise :!: |
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Terry Kay |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 10:19 am |
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The glass guys are covering their butts if the cuustomer doesn't want to pop for a new rubber seal.
The old gasket / seal will shrink with age.
when you got that new glass installed, did you put in a new glass seal?
that's why they gooped it up. |
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WestyBob |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:58 pm |
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dubbified wrote: These window seals do not require sealant.
Initially they don't with a new seal but in time, as already mentioned by others, the seal shrinks and gets brittle. If your lucky enough to time it well and replace then so-be-it. If not, the seal then becomes a moisture trap.
dubbified wrote: If anything, it provides a place to capture (with age) moisture, and cause a problem.
To me the purpose of a flexible urethane sealant between the rubber and metal is to prevent/displace any potential water getting in there. If well applied of course.
dubbified wrote: They said.. it keeps the window from flying out.. Uh.. yea.. and monkeys fly.
I never thought of the sealant (regarding vanagons) as part of the windshield retaining system either. It's just what it sez ... a sealant. As Terry mentioned, many if not most newer vehicles use a glue/sealant compound that does hold the windshield in. |
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zippyslug31 |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:06 pm |
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Apologies to the OP for a quick side question but what does the peanut gallery think about sealant for the remaining windows? I have my side and rear glass out and it looks like there was a 1/4" bead of some kind of black sealant applied to my side glass; not sure if that was factory applied or not. |
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dubbified |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:54 pm |
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Terry Kay wrote: The glass guys are covering their butts if the cuustomer doesn't want to pop for a new rubber seal.
The old gasket / seal will shrink with age.
when you got that new glass installed, did you put in a new glass seal?
that's why they gooped it up.
I've had rabbits, golfs of several vintages, I commonly rope my own glass and new OEM seal. I've also had several of them for over 5 years.. and guess what.. no shrink.
0 leaks. Never had a window fly, and I update to all disc... stops ona dime.
Never seen leaks.
I'm assuming people dont prepare the surface.
I can see sealing the LIP of the seal, as in the flap that lays against the body's face, but NOT the feathered/gills of the seal.
I can tell you that I've personally seen 8 windshields where the glue caused water to be retained, and rusted the track.
So, Yea.. no glue needed so says technical manuals, and several technical references.
http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-VW-Bus-Windshields-and-Seals
that's exactly the process I see in nearly all printed references. |
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oorwullie |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:04 pm |
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insyncro wrote:
All window rubbers in the Vanagon had a thin line of black sealant used at the factory.
Sikaflex is the closest to stock sealant I have found.
Dont use sealant if you feel otherwise :!:
that's interesting, i've never noticed this factory sealant. is it maybe a US market thing?
SIKA products are great, i sometimes get some samples from a mate who works there but i never sealed any vehicle windows with that goo. |
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RBEmerson |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:35 pm |
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Er... Sikaflex is an adhesive, too. See the attached link for a brief statement of the Sikaflex Challenge. Note the rules about fastening the boat components: Sikaflex and only Sikaflex. No nails, screws, etc.
Are you sure you want your windshield installed that permanently? |
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dubbified |
Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:47 pm |
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If sealant is applied, which part of the seal should see the glue? |
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