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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:34 pm

no this hot foot is not related to the heater controls. This comes from under the van where the hot coolant line goes to the rad before cooling as I understand it. Some good threads on it.

Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:41 pm

Interior quieting? Simple! Leave Wife at Home :lol:

Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:56 pm

dubbified wrote: DAIZEE wrote: question: can the Dynamat or like be used to prevent hot foot or do you have to use something specific for that area?. I'm now into making notes of materials needed. \

I personally wouldnt use dynamat where there's excessive heat, it is a butyl based product and will get gooey, if there is any traffic against it can get really tacky..

I applied dynamat very heavily to the front nose sections behind the dash, and to the floor sections in the front.

Prior to picking up the OE front rubber front mat, I let my feet touch the dynamat while driving.. it tracked nasty black goo across my carpet in the house..

Dynamat will definitely will deaden the sound... and as long as the surfaces are clean/wax/oil free, aint comin off. Recently I had to scrape some sections of dynamat off under the hood of my gti for paint.. what a job.. that stuff was really stuck on.. and it was only on for 8 mos.

The idea is to cover the sound deadening material. My Instant Waterproof Repair Tape is installed because it works. Over the tape I installed carpet pad. Over the pad, carpet. leaving the tape uncovered would give a kind of Apollo space program look, but I'd recommend a covering of some kind.

Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:00 pm

randywebb wrote: Use an engine liner material in areas that get hot - I usually use Cascade Audio's products as they are the only company I can find that has any knowledge whatsoever of acoustics or heat transfer.

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/car_thermal_products.htm

DynaMat corp. would be my 2nd choice.

I would never put roof patch material inside my Vanagon -- if you do that, be sure to disclose to any one who buys your vehicle so you can immunize yourself from a liability suit.

HA HA Actually the roof patch material has an ASTM 1970 conformity certification that none of the Cascade or Dynamat companies can claim. What exactly is the basis of your imagined lawsuit?

Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:05 pm

oreana123 wrote: randywebb wrote: Use an engine liner material in areas that get hot - I usually use Cascade Audio's products as they are the only company I can find that has any knowledge whatsoever of acoustics or heat transfer.

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/car_thermal_products.htm

DynaMat corp. would be my 2nd choice.

I would never put roof patch material inside my Vanagon -- if you do that, be sure to disclose to any one who buys your vehicle so you can immunize yourself from a liability suit.

HA HA Actually the roof patch material has an ASTM 1970 conformity certification that none of the Cascade or Dynamat companies can claim. What exactly is the basis of your imagined lawsuit?

Have you actually read the ASTM standard??? It is a roofing standard

1.1 This specification covers polymer modified bituminous sheet materials intended for use as underlayment on roof eaves, or valleys, or both, to prevent leakage of shingle, tile, or metal roofs from water back-up due to ice dams.

1.2 These underlayment sheets have a sticky adhesive layer which is exposed by removal of a protective sheet. The top surface is suitable to work on during the application of the exposed roofing.

"This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use."

Suitable to work on, no mention of suitable to live within.....do some reading on roof patch materials to figure out why this stuff is not appropriate for the interior of a van you sleep/live in..

Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:22 pm

westfailed wrote:
Hot foot syndrome? Wouldn't it be better to fix the problem instead of mask it with foam? The heat comes from an open heat control right?
No, my van has new radiator, and heater control valve, along with a new heater core, foam seals, etc, etc. and seems to have hot foot syndrome more than before.

Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:32 pm

oreana123 wrote: randywebb wrote: Use an engine liner material in areas that get hot - I usually use Cascade Audio's products as they are the only company I can find that has any knowledge whatsoever of acoustics or heat transfer.

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/car_thermal_products.htm

DynaMat corp. would be my 2nd choice.

I would never put roof patch material inside my Vanagon -- if you do that, be sure to disclose to any one who buys your vehicle so you can immunize yourself from a liability suit.

HA HA Actually the roof patch material has an ASTM 1970 conformity certification that none of the Cascade or Dynamat companies can claim. What exactly is the basis of your imagined lawsuit?

Roof patch material is for roofs. It's not ideally suited for anything automotive related. Believe me, I've tried it. Back in the '70s, in the Rust Belt, I tried "rustproofing" a Squareback with it. It held up great all winter, but the first summer day it started wilting off from underneath the car in sheets... and got into EVERYTHING.

Use a material that was designed to do what you want it to do. Don't think yourself stupid.

Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:12 pm

Agreed. I'm not sure I get where the heat is coming from. Anything under the floor that's heating the floor is bad news. If it's coming down from the heater area, no amount of insulation on the floor will help (might, at least from an engineering standpoint, actually make it worse). I'd nail down the heat source and treat it before attempting to insulate that which doesn't need it.

Fri Jan 06, 2012 11:35 pm

Guys the hot foot problem is a given due to the design of the van's cooling system. There are many threads on it. Particularly increased on right foot and left of centre. Never noticed it before but after new engine, new rad and new cooling lines and Aug/Sept weather is was very noticeable with all the heater controls off. while the temp VDO Gauge hung in at 185 to 190. I shall try to find the thread to do my decision making on what to do. I don't want any chemical reactions, nor the emmission of chemicals.

I'm not overly worried about noise as I have cupboards on both sides of van, so only need to do the two front doors and the slider. That will improve things for cold weather camping also. I may be going to jalousies on the sliders so that might increase noise :roll:

It may even be a FAQ but do a search. I put a hot/cold aluminum bag under the pedal and that helped a wee bit, so a good job will make it a non issue. Built into the design of the Vanagons. I threw out my undercarpeting because it was soaked in rodent (squirrels & mice) urine.

Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:57 am

RBEmerson wrote: Agreed. I'm not sure I get where the heat is coming from. Anything under the floor that's heating the floor is bad news. If it's coming down from the heater area, no amount of insulation on the floor will help (might, at least from an engineering standpoint, actually make it worse). I'd nail down the heat source and treat it before attempting to insulate that which doesn't need it.

All explained right here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271 . Additionally, if you open your Bentley Service Manual, you'll see that even Volkswagen issued a retrofit insulation kit to install to help cure "hot-foot syndrome".

My Westy had the retrofit installed before I bought it, but it didn't help much. I stuffed some Reflectix up around the area and it's helped significantly (still need to mount it properly though, like tencent shows in the aforementioned thread).

Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:16 pm

When I replaced my radiator I glued in a layer of foil/bubble/bubble/foil insulation and its made the cab quieter and more comfortable.

Highly recommended.

Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:35 pm

Jake de Villiers wrote: When I replaced my radiator I glued in a layer of foil/bubble/bubble/foil insulation and its made the cab quieter and more comfortable.

Highly recommended.

you mean you put it on the exterior surface of the van, behind the radiator?

Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:56 pm

randywebb wrote: Jake de Villiers wrote: When I replaced my radiator I glued in a layer of foil/bubble/bubble/foil insulation and its made the cab quieter and more comfortable.

Highly recommended.

you mean you put it on the exterior surface of the van, behind the radiator?

Sorry, yes. Kinda up in the 'tunnel' there and down to where the pipes and hoses all get in the way. Its great material for jobs like that; pretty good R value, a radiant barrier and will not trap moisture.

Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:47 pm

I used several products from www.secondskinaudio.com on my 3FE FJ80. I was getting the TLC equivalent of hot foot syndrome, even in snowy weather.

After a double layer application of it in the footwells, firewall and transmission hump, no more heat, except from the heater core. I also did the rest of the floor, and some triple layer section over the muffler and cat. Coupled with their under-carpet padding, I had a pretty quiet ride.

I fully intend to use the same products on my Westy. The SSA products that I used were the Damplifier and the Heatwave.
http://secondskinaudio.com/thermal-insulation/heat-wave.php
http://secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier.php

I liked that the products did not off gas and Ant, the owner, was kind enough to meet me at his warehouse and show me everything before I bought it.

Here are a few pics of the interior of my LC.