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Mon Feb 25, 2019 5:45 am

I've never messed with a Mega squirt system before, so I may be a bit off base here, but I had an idea. The FI system has an IAT sensor correct? Is it possible to write a line of code into the system that when the IAT is above a certain ambient temp, when the key is shut off it will continue to flow fuel through the system for a set amount of time? If you could trigger off the IAT that would prevent unnecessary fuel circulation in conditions where the vapor lock issue would normally occur.

Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:07 am

Bashr52 wrote: I've never messed with a Mega squirt system before, so I may be a bit off base here, but I had an idea. The FI system has an IAT sensor correct? Is it possible to write a line of code into the system that when the IAT is above a certain ambient temp, when the key is shut off it will continue to flow fuel through the system for a set amount of time? If you could trigger off the IAT that would prevent unnecessary fuel circulation in conditions where the vapor lock issue would normally occur.

Yes, what you propose would be a reasonable approach. A lot may have changed in the meantime. Maybe the MegaSquirt team has added some option like this.

At the time, I looked into it and found that the 3-second prime pulse was hard coded. No way to change it in the normal configuration. I would have had to download the tools and code and recompiled it on my own to make the change.

Later, it occurred to me that there is really no reason to shut the pump down. If you are driving all day, it is running all day anyway. So what we might do is just wire the pump to come on with the ignition and stay on. There is not normally any reason to be in that state of having the ignition on and the engine off--the pump running can just be a reminder to switch the key back to the accessory position or finish starting the car.

Mon May 06, 2019 6:26 am

baxsie wrote:
Later, it occurred to me that there is really no reason to shut the pump down.

It is a safety feature that the fuel pump is switched off after a few seconds when the engine stalls. This is to prevent spilling fuel over hot engine parts if the fuel lines were ripped off by an accident and the driver is not able to switch off the ignition any more.

There were some wc VWs (i. e. Passat B3, Corrado) that featured an fuel pump after run to minimized hot start problems. The after run relais monitored temperature in engine compartment and fuel pressure (to make sure the fuel system is not punctured).
In the water cooled application additionally the radiator fan is switched on to remove hot air from the engine compartment.
Of course there also is a timeout to prevent discharging the battery.

Perhaps this relais would help with your hot engine issue.

Sun Nov 10, 2019 9:10 pm

We had a little complication with the baxsie image server. A "simple" upgrade of the OS then a reboot and . . . it would not come back up :-(

It looks like a combination of odd hardware ("fake RAID" or "software RAID"), combined with a non-standard OS installation and then errors trying to do the upgrade doomed. it.

Now we have a new server in place. Dual Xeons, 128GB memory, 256GB OS SSD, 4TB of SSD for the images, and a 5TB backup drive with scripts to backup the OS and image drive.

So in theory . . . all should be good for a long time. If you notice any issues, please PM me and I'll try to sort it out.

Tue Nov 12, 2019 12:16 am

I am glad the pics are back! I followed this topic closely, because the detailed pictures are really useful in my rebuild. Especially on metal work. Congratulations on your work, you got a very solid and beautiful car in the en.

Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:35 pm

perhaps those nubs on the fender nut are supposed to be drilled out so you can tack weld it, or is it spot weld?? I have to replace a few of mine and that is what I was thinking.

Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:59 pm

Those nuts are designed to be used with some massive spot welder and a special head that can weld all four nubs at once, I'm sure.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 5:16 pm

use indian head shellac on tank gaskets allways seals ive allways used it . been building hot rods and doing restorations well close to 30yrs ,, that stuff works on all of em filler tube o rings too , by the way i absolutely love your a/c compressor bracket,,, fabricator john

Mon Feb 01, 2021 2:42 am

baxsie wrote: Way back when, we talked about putting powered rear window pop-out actuators in. Today is that day.

The actuator is one of several I gathered up from various minivans at the local Pull-And-Save. I think it was from a Nissan mini van.

Inital placement and cutting for the actuator:

Here is the start of the hole. It extends into the back side of the fresh air vent:

More careful & minimal cutting, clearance for the actuator motor. Also more of the cursed foam of death:

Another test fit:

We wanted to make a box or "bucket" (think headlight bucket) to keep the inside inside and the outside outside, and preserve the mechanical integrity. Start with a paper prototype:

Move that to some OG metal:

Sanity check before foldiong the box up:

Fold up the metal box, trim cut file, etc:

Then we went back to the car to fiddle the hole until it accepts the box, tryiong to keep the gaps to a minimum:

Here is what it looks like from the outside, with the inner metal of the car clearanced around the box:

Once the box is sitting at the correct depth, mark it for folding:

By now, the paper prototype is a distant memory, and the metal prototype has several fiddly errors. Plus we need right and left copies of the box. So we flattened the metal prototype box, traced and cut two copies, fixing the errors as we went:

Fold up the two new boxes:

Now we can fold out the mounting flanges trim them and another test fit:

A couple more views from outside:

The passenger side went much faster . . . not problem free, but knowing the dimenstions and positions helps:

Here are the finished boxes. We welded studs in to mount the actuators. We welded up the corners, ground the welds down a bit, smoothed things out and glass beaded them:

Here is a shot of the test installation. We used screws to hold it until the body folks can fix the rust in these areas. Later the plan is to weld the box into the car to assure mechanical/structural integrity.

So . . . does it work? Brilliantly! Here is a video of operation:

The plan is to have the upholstery folks pad and cover the actuator, ideally there would be a lined hole where the shaft exits, the rest would be covered by the upholstery. If needed we can build a top cover out of metal and screw that fast.

Hi,

Please share the link to buy the same electric motor
Dose it come for right and left?
Is there is another model that can open the popup window wider?

Fri Feb 12, 2021 5:29 pm

These are from the comments in the video:

Adding electric-powered rear pop out actuators to an air-cooled VW bug super beetle

Build thread here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6682431#6682431

Part numbers here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7570700#7570700
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7093370#7093370

Another similar project here:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfdXu8r6T_5WjP4wJ5xB2ZhScdAbTVv_z

Tue Oct 26, 2021 9:51 am

I got this question via a PM, thought I would share it here for all.

> Hey there, was wondering if you could tell me how you modded a late hood to
> mount the crest? I can’t seem to find more info on this, not even how the craft
> normally mounts (two tabs thru the hood, or a single stud). If a stud where did
> you get one that would clear the emblem? Thanks!

There is the crest itself, which includes mounting tabs (pic from a random eBay auction)ref:

These go through a mounting plate, and into slots in the hood. I cut the slots using a Dremel with a small carbide bit. The mounting plate covers them, so they can have a little slop. Here is a pic of what the factory mounting holes look like:

After the tabs of the crest pass through the mounting plate and through the hood, they are supposed to pass through these little rubber pads:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113853611

I did not know that then so I did not use any.

Properly, the trim should meet with the crest like this:

I needed to shorten the hood trim (because of the badge added at the top) so I went with a simple straight cut of the wider stainless trim:

If you search "crest" at Wolfsburg West, there are two options.

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113853621AGR
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113853621BGR

And many more after that:

Many crest photos are mixed in this (long) post: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8501645#8501645

Here is another thread that has more information on adding a crest to a newer bug:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9417185

Tue Oct 26, 2021 2:23 pm

Braxie

Such an impressive build! I can't believe it's already been 2 years since you completed it. How's the car holding up? Engine?

Two things I thought were brilliant (among MANY) were the powered pop outs and the cruise control (i.e. I like how the cruise control lever is very much like cruise control on a Subaru)

H2OSB

Tue Oct 26, 2021 5:12 pm

H2OSB wrote: . . . How's the car holding up? Engine? . . . .

Thanks for the kind words.

My son finished college, moved out.

We went to change the oil so he could take it to his new home and found that one intake manifold was loose. We think that the stud was too short and pulled the threads in the head out :-( Those massive manifolds, ITB, and air cleaners put a lot of stress on those studs.

So we need to drop the engine, fix the threads in the head or maybe just use a bottoming tap and a longer stud then put the engine back in.

Other than that it has been pretty reliable.

There is an issue with vapor lock if you shut it off when it is very hot -- we know how to get around that now. Just have to keep toggling the key to run the fuel pump until the lines cool.