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Wed May 02, 2012 1:58 am

Does anyone have pics or location diagrams for where to make the holes to access the clutch cable tube weld points?

I have the hole saw and have done many bugs. But this is a 64 notch and i want to make as few holes as possible. So if you guys can point me to where some pics are of the access spots... id be very thankful.

The tube is broken completely off and just slides back and forth in the tunnel. FAIL!

Thanks in Advance. Dave

Wed May 02, 2012 12:26 pm

Looked in the parts book for you but it's not clear where the weld points are.

I went through this years ago on my '66. I was able to access the front mounting tab through the plate on the pan bulkhead where you remove the shifter rod. Spare tire out, spare tire well out, and you have good access if you can get the car up in the air.

At the rear, simply weld the tube where it exits the body.

Wed May 02, 2012 5:24 pm

Thanks tram. Trying to have an answer before this eve. If not ill do pics and post em up here.

Wed May 02, 2012 5:45 pm

Found this in the 1965 Shop Manual
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=922710

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=922709

It would great to see some pics of the repair as I don't think that is covered in the Forums yet.

Wed May 02, 2012 7:41 pm

:shock: sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet..

Thanks a million everett.

Ill be doing this in a few hours. Pics to come then.

Thu May 03, 2012 1:48 pm

OK. thanks to everetts pics/info it made the job a snap. Not knowing where to cut would have been a PAIN in the ass.
The way the clutch tube is welded into the pan on a T3 is NOTHING like a T1.
So i would have had holes everywhere. As it stands i did have to make an extra hole on the driver side because the cable didnt break off of the mount... the mount in the middle fatigued and snapped in half.
So i had to weld the mount back together which required accessing it from the driver side also, cause it goes under the cable and is also tied to..... THE FUEL LINE!

So that sucked as i had ZERO margin for error. Thank goodness i can weld.

Following ev's article... i cleaned off the tarboard that was on the pan.... this sucked to do cause this is an all original survivor 64 notch.

Then i made the measurements and made the cuts. I will not do the next one in triangles like the article says, its easier to do either square cuts or to use a hole saw and then weld the little manhole cover back on place.

*note* you have to cut VERY shallow on the rear one because there is a tube RIGHT behind the tunnel metal. I juuuust nicked it, so i was OK. I cut slow and then look to see if i see tubes.. always.

Here is the middle mount, and as you can see the piece of sheet metal that it was connected to... is what snapped.

after looking at it, i realized i need another window here..

So i could access the fuel line side of the bracket and weld it also.

Here is that weld done...
(wire hanging down from weld on other side as i had to "yoda it" cause i couldnt get the nozzle in there and see where i was welding. positioned it and welded blind. Missed on first try.. hence the hanger. lol

Here is the front weld done. The pic i took of the rear weld didnt come out and now the car is all done and out driving around, so sorry no pic of that weld.. but its good. :)
*note* you have to cut shallow in front too or you will hit the defrost tube. See how its ON the tunnel wall at the front. I dint even nick it. :)

I did completely space taking pics of the rear mount done. But it is a PAIN in the ass with the engine/trans in. I had to build a bridge to secure it, which worked out perfect. But it can be done, you just have to innovate.

Hope this helps some people save their pan. All i can say is... if you cant weld... dont do this. Cause if you burn through ANY of the tubes... you are F*&KED. Correct heat setting and feed speed are imperative on the FIRST try.

Mon Nov 08, 2021 7:57 am

Just what I was looking for! :D =D> \:D/