TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed May 09, 2012 9:47 pm

Hi,
I'm trying to learn some basics so I can eventually paint some of the smaller parts of my bus. (Pedals, seat frames, rims, ECT)

So, I'm practicing on a 1940's tricycle for my niece. I went to the local auto body paint store and bought SEM self etching primer and high build primer.

When I went into the shop, the guys pointed me in the direction of the etch primer and the high build to begin with. Again, I am a totally newbie to painting.

Thus far, I blasted all of the metal parts and then sprayed everything with the Etch Primer.

I have a few questions.

When I apply the high build primer, would it be advised to do a light sanding before I top coat it with the final paint?

Also, what type of paint should I use? What would be the easiest for a newbie? I live in California, what are my options?

I have an air compressor and will buy a small gun. Any suggestions for a paint gun?

Thank you for the responses. I hope to go in for the paint with some common knowledge so I don't sound like a total idiot in the paint store.

Thu May 10, 2012 3:54 am

The high build primer is used to fill small imperfections on your surface. If you will use a flat black primer and dust lightly over the high build it will help show any places that need more attention as you sand. I would use a 320 grit paper, sand till the black is gone, reprime. Sand once more with 400-600 grit, wash the part or parts and your ready to paint.
For small parts, pedals, shifters,ect I would get a few cans of rattle. You will spend more time and money buying guns, valves, reducers, whatever than is nessasary. Duplicolor and Sema are fine brands. You can step it up a bit, allow the painted parts to dry really well (a week) give them a nice scuff and clear coat them. Keep in mind that Vws were all done single stage, so the last step isnt required given you have serval nice coats of color on your parts.
When your ready to do larger areas, sata-jet, devilbiss and atwana are good abiet pricey guns. My sata red was $400+. I dont know how the epa is out there, but I imagine you have to spray waterborne paint systems, maybe someone on here can fill you in. we can still use solvent based paints here, for now.
hope this helps

Thu May 10, 2012 4:46 am

Don't worry about feeling like an idiot at the paint store. A good paint store can be a great help in assisting you. They will keep you in a line of products that are compatible together. The cfm output of your compressor will dictate what guns you can use. Actually, starting with a regular gun for your small parts and tricycle project will get you used to setting up your gun, mixing paint, and getting used to it. Plus you will wind up with a much better job.

Thu May 10, 2012 2:55 pm

Thank you for the two responses.

I will inquire with the shop where I bought the primer and figure out what to use for the small parts. I like the idea of using more auto body grade paint over a rattle can. I just think it is more durable and looks better.

I am concerned with all of the damn regulations in California. I want the more traditional look of single stage paint, versus the clear coat paint jobs.

Does anyone know if I am going to be able to get a true VW color with a single stage paint in California? Also, If I can't get it in California, if I hop over a state to Nevada, will I have better luck getting a more durable paint that is not allowed here in California?

I know that when I had some body work done on my newer car, it was all water based, I could not even touch it for three months, other than a light rinse with water only.

Next question is, if I get paint from Nevada, I wonder if I can persuade someone my dad or uncle knows to shoot the paint here in California for me.

Thu May 10, 2012 4:44 pm

Yeah, I'm in denial on waterborne paints. Most dealers and large shops have already changed here as they know the restrictions are coming. While it is a good thing, good airflow(booth) is a must and color matching seem to be their biggest problems. Instead of painting a fender, they are having to reshoot the whole vehicle. I've about given it up, so it won't affect me, but I understand your situation.

Fri May 11, 2012 3:02 pm

Colour matching with a water borne system is just as good as solvent proucts. I work in a production type shop, use Sikkens water borne, and regularly colour match with very few issues.

Fri May 11, 2012 5:11 pm

I worked production shops for the last twenty years, waterborne is the way to go, but for a hobbist it is too costly. We are not required by state law to use it yet... But its coming. I merely suggested using cans for cost and availbility, as opposed to spending big money to shoot small parts. Weight out the cost of equipment vs the cost of someone just shooting it vs the money you spend on epa fines for spraying illegaly.
Using rattle workss fine, holds up well and can look very nice if its prepped properly. Its all in the prep.
I have sprayed candies, multi-stage pearls and simple single stages. They all have varying degrees of durability, but in the end its the prep that makes the difference.