TheSamba.com :: View topic - Adding a second battery..how to...with photos FAQ

Fri Aug 07, 2015 12:45 pm

Tcash wrote: This one is insulated.
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/169/24117/

Tcash

I was looking at this one before I even read the post to see the updates. I won't settle for anything other than USA or German made, options are limited. The 85A should be fine for a typical gen/alt, but what are your thoughts on a 90A alt? I'm upgrading as I'll be running a Fantastic fan and a 55 watt solar grape cooler.

Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:33 pm

Boat supply stores have marine circuit breakers

Sat Aug 08, 2015 9:30 am

LivinInnaVWBus wrote:
I was looking at this one before I even read the post to see the updates. I won't settle for anything other than USA or German made, options are limited. The 85A should be fine for a typical gen/alt, but what are your thoughts on a 90A alt? I'm upgrading as I'll be running a Fantastic fan and a 55 watt solar grape cooler.

Although you will not see max alt. current all the time. I would get a solenoid rated 20% higher than the max current for longevity. Maybe a golf cart solenoid.

Good Luck
Tcash

Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:21 am

Alright, guys. I finally got it wired up (minus the fuse box). I didn't use anything overly interesting for my own, just what I had laying around other than the solenoid. Would you guys mind hopping over to the link below to check the wiring is correct?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7851573&highlight=#7851573

My bus is simply a test subject, aesthetics are not a consideration. If anyone wants a full, pre-made kit, I could come up with something really nice using a USA made Cole Hersee insulated solenoid, USA made 8 & 10g wire, genuine VW 3-way and cloth shrink wrapped. Let me know if there is interest.

Wed Oct 28, 2015 12:26 am

I've been reading through multiple posts but can't seem to find a definitive answer to my simple question. Which deep cycle battery (make/size) is recommended for an aux battery? What are you using? The common answer I keep seeing is "get the biggest that will fit." Was hoping not to have to "try on" batteries. Thanks so much!

Wed Oct 28, 2015 1:31 pm

DHMaher wrote: I've been reading through multiple posts but can't seem to find a definitive answer to my simple question. Which deep cycle battery (make/size) is recommended for an aux battery? What are you using? The common answer I keep seeing is "get the biggest that will fit." Was hoping not to have to "try on" batteries. Thanks so much!

There is no definitive answer. I can tell you that I use a Die Hard Platinum AGM in group size 65 and it fits perfectly. It's currently $250 but you might find it on sale, I think I paid $180. It's the same battery as an Odyssey.

Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:17 pm

Hi, my apologies if I should be starting a new thread, but I want to ask questions based on what's been said here so far, and ask for some input…

I have a 76 transporter, and I want to add an RV battery for aux/camping use. It's not a westfalia, so I don't have a shore input (although theoretically I'd like one). I've been basically convinced to follow Aeromech's advice as posted in multiple threads, namely to get the Blue Sea Addabatt 7610, with the Maxi fuse, and the 12 fuse box with negative bus installed up front. I think I'm also supposed to add inline fuses at ea positive terminal, and I think there's another thing I'm currently forgetting (not a pun).

There are two things that are causing me to not order the above items until I get feedback:

WhirledTraveler has advocated for the more expensive magnetic ACR, I guess so he can use a solar charger (I'd like that option, but money is an issue and I live in Seattle). Is the difference a big deal or can I overcome the solar input issue and the over-time drain buy using Aeromech's $5 relay addition?
I want to convert the interior to a Japanese-style tea room, with room for two people to sit, and I can serve tea (and have music, and run a laptop and the like). I have a Japanese tea kettle, and have bought a Samlex pure sine wave inverter http://samlexamerica.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=505 (this has been an ongoing ambition for some time and it takes forever to come up with this kind of money, but anyway). I recently bought the Samlex install kit, which consists of cable, and a 300a MRBF Terminal Fuse block https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A (I suspect the kit cost more than the parts, but I try to follow a recipe).

DO I hook up the inverter to the Aux battery and at the same time on the same terminals hook up the AddaBatt and the Aux wiring scheme as above, as if they were disinterested in each other? Or do I somehow have to connect the inverter into the AddaBatt sequence? For that matter, if I want to add a shore power plug, do I need a separate power converter and or is that a third connection to the terminals (WhirledTraveler mentioned this, and I am interested in recommendations)? If I do that am I complicating my other agenda, namely making hot water?

Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:39 pm

Honestly, I have been thinking of installing an aux battery that can be used during camping without however draining the main battery when staring the engine. Your explanations makes it look like installing the same is just like a walk in the park. And I appreciate that you share your insights on this. Again, thanks for the very important info!

Dong

Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:43 am

Question: can the alternator with 55 amps properly ccharge the two batteries epically the main battery? Thanks in advance.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:28 am

DONGKG wrote: Question: can the alternator with 55 amps properly ccharge the two batteries epically the main battery? Thanks in advance.

I have the 55 amp alternator and it seems to work just fine. Note that the alternator is not used to charge your battery. It provides 13.5-14.5 Volts to the battery while driving so that your battery is not drained by the electronics in your bus.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:32 am

Creampuff, the alternator does both functions. It both charges the battery, or batteries in this case and supply's power to the vehicle while running.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:41 am

xfrench wrote: Hi, my apologies if I should be starting a new thread, but I want to ask questions based on what's been said here so far, and ask for some input…

This may help. I have a Westy, but this could apply to your situation.

I use the Cytrix-ct 120amp smart battery combiner ($55 on amazon) and a 120amp 12V circuit breaker. This setup combines the batteries when either one is being "charged". Starter battery getting charge from alternator, or auxiliary battery getting charge from shore power. I also added a momentary button that will manual combine the batteries in the case of the starter battery dying, this will allow you to start off your auxiliary battery.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:53 am

Thank you. Is that little red button the temp switch? Do you have to keep your finger on it for it to combine both batteries? and is the control panel simply and on/off knob for the fridge? I appreciate the clarity of your setup.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:00 am

xfrench wrote: Thank you. Is that little red button the temp switch? Do you have to keep your finger on it for it to combine both batteries? and is the control panel simply and on/off knob for the fridge? I appreciate the clarity of your setup.

The Cytrix-ct has an input terminal 85 or 86 I forget. When it gets triggered it combines the batteries for 30 seconds, so the momentary switch just needs to be pressed and released, then you go start the bus.

Control panel is oversimplified in my drawing, it refers to the stock control panel in the Westy. It controls the fridge, converter, auxiliary battery and shore power. The one shown in this guy's video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2SlQofJY50

Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:17 am

Got it. Will have to cobble together a control panel to suit my own setup. Now, off to jump down the youtube rabbit hole... Thanks again.

Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:24 am

If all you need is for the auxiliary battery to charge from your alternator you can save yourself some time and money and just get a $10 bosch relay.

The blue alternator warning light wire comes out of your voltage regulator mounted on the right side of the firewall.

Good luck!

Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:46 am

Terrifying in it's simplicity and affordability! I'll have to chew on that before I spend several hundred dollars on Amazon that I don't have.
Truth be told, I don't really need much else at this stage of my project beyond a second battery to power the inverter (to boil the water for the tea). I'm not traveling anywhere until I spend several k on the struts and the cv boots, and whatever is squirrelly in my clutch at the moment. The attraction of the Addabatt recommendations lean towards a feeling of robustness, thoroughness, and future potential for expansion (which is why I would get a 12 circuit aux fuse panel instead of a 6 circuit one). Sometimes I overthink future potential, and in my regular life it makes me some sort of haphazard prepper, gathering things I might need in a historical anomaly type scenario :)

Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:51 am

BayCreamPuff wrote: If all you need is for the auxiliary battery to charge from your alternator you can save yourself some time and money and just get a $10 bosch relay.

Good luck!

Nice, make sure the relay is rated at 40A or above.
Tcash

Sun Feb 14, 2016 4:18 pm

BayCreamPuff wrote: DONGKG wrote: Question: can the alternator with 55 amps properly ccharge the two batteries epically the main battery? Thanks in advance.

I have the 55 amp alternator and it seems to work just fine. Note that the alternator is not used to charge your battery. It provides 13.5-14.5 Volts to the battery while driving so that your battery is not drained by the electronics in your bus. thanks to that imformation buddy.

Wed May 25, 2016 12:54 pm

Hey guys, been doing a lot of reading and have some questions of my own (mostly because I'm not an electronic guru).

Using that fuse grid posted for a 76-79 bus, it looks like the reco was changing over Fuse 2, 8 and 9 to the new Aux fuse block.

My ultimate goal is to run my stereo system while camping, that's the only reason I'm adding an aux battery. I don't want any lights or anything else drawing battery power during this time. (and not have any lights or anything running). I've ordered a battery isolator and a mega fuse kit to run between my batteries.

Given it's only the stereo I'm concerned with, do I still need an Aux Fuse Block in order to connect the Aux Battery to Fuse #9?

Follow up (may be a stupid question)- can I run my stereo setup with my key in my pocket, or does it need to be in the ignition switch? Hoping key in ignition switch will activate interior lights, etc, which would be running off main battery.

I'm running a Retrosound Model 2 if that has any consequence..

thanks!