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Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:17 pm

Thanks Andy. I'm doing the majority of the build on my own in my garage. I've had a few friends help a little bit. I've shopped a few things out, like sandblasting the tunnel and powder coating the roll bars. But for the most part it is just me and my determination. I knew going into the build, it would be a challenge, and I'm up to it.

I've worked on my own cars in the past, but basic stuff; brakes, oil, change a headlight, etc. And I have an off road tube chassis woods buggy that we build from scratch 20 years ago. But this is the first time I've ever tried this magnitude of a project. I'll get through it and know in the end it will be the best I could have built with the tools, knowledge, and skills I have at this time. I'm hesitant at times, but only because I want to make sure I don't butcher it up too bad. I'm getting better at hiding my mistakes. 8)

If it wasn't for this forum, it sure would be tougher though. I can't thank enough of the guys and gals here for helping me along the way.

Thanks,
Scott

Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:59 pm

Hows the build going ?

Tue Nov 06, 2012 4:32 pm

Iguana wrote: Hows the build going ?

It's still moving forward, but not as quickly as I'd like. :D Nothing new that is picture worthy. I've mounted the rear seats and started working on the roof. Mostly I've just been putzing around till the money is available again.

I had a few minor health issues in the family, and all I can say is that I am thankful to be employed and with some medical coverage. Jeez, 2 minor surgeries for me and 1 for my son, and we're pushing the $4000 annual family deductible. Fortunately we're all ok, but it's put a cramp in the buggy budget.

I'm ahead of my self-imposed schedule of Oct 2013 for MOTB, but if I had the funds I'd be further along. 8) I'm down to "only" needing front seats, everything electrical except gauges and lights, and a motor....I have the parts list together for what switches, toggles, etc I would like.

Thanks for asking. I'll post more when I get moving on it again.

Scott

Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:24 pm

Got a little more done.

Rear seats mounted:

Hood tie downs mounted:

And I finally got past my anxiety about mounting the roof. And it came out much better than I thought it would. Nothing wanted to line up the way I thought it should have on the front brackets, but with a little tweaking and finesse, I finally took the plunge and drilled the holes. Once the front hinges were installed it wasn't as big of a deal drilling through the roof to mounted the center bracket the struts mount to.

Front hinge bracket:

Center bracket & struts:

And a couple of pics of it all opened up:

And now the ugly. The clear coat I used on the glove box door has hazed all over since the weather has gotten cold. It looked good when it was warm out. I used what I had and guess I should have researched more. I think it will clean up with acetone, but I might lose Bruce's signature. Any suggestions to remove the clear coat? And what product have others used with success to protect fiberglass that stays clear? If I can't get it cleaned up, I guess I'll buy another door and hope Bruce comes to Carlisle or MOTB next year so I can ask him to sign a new one.

Thanks for looking,
Scott

Tue Nov 20, 2012 12:56 am

Did you end up getting new front wheels? They do look smaller in the latest pictures. What is the issue with PA and tire coverage?

Buggy looks really good so far.

Mike T

Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:15 am

Have you tried to buff the dash area you clear coated? If it is a lacquer finish you used, it can absorb water/humidity and fog over, but come clean with some hand buffing using a good 3M compound like out of their Perfect It III line.

As a off beat question, I like the forward hinged top and would like to do this with a Manx Style hard top on my next buggy build. Can the hardware be purchased separate so I can add it to a different top?

Tue Nov 20, 2012 12:37 pm

That tape would scare me being on that long :shock: , The Scotch/3M blue painters tape I'm using only says 14 days clean removal on it... I've had stuff I've left sitting around with tape on it so long it wouldn't come off anymore...

Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:56 pm

BIGMIKEY - The front tires are the same. I think I read in the specialty constructed vehicle guide that the entire tire has to be under the fender. I'm still not sure how mine will be titled, so it may or may not be an issue. I may end up needing to get new front rims with different backspacing. I've been striking out finding the ones I need to pull the tires inward. Someday, I do plan on replacing all of them with something shinier. 8)

Joe - I hadn't thought of buffing it out. I a quick search on 3M Perfect It compound. Ouch! The one site I saw was $65/quart. I do have a friend about 1/2 hour from me that does body work. Maybe he has something I can try. One of the many bumps in the road. As for the brackets, I don't know if you can buy them separate. Winnie Meyers would be able to tell you. (760) 749-6321. They are something that could be fabricated, if they don't. There's nothing that fancy about them.

donbarnes - I've pulled a piece here and there to see how it came off. So far, so good. I've been debating pulling it all, but I have 2 sons, 12 & 14. My garage is the neighbor hangout for them and their friends, including everyone's bike, scooters, and skateboards. I'm nervous at this point to leave it unguarded..... :D With winter coming, the kid traffic in the garage will die down.

Thanks,
Scott

Tue Nov 20, 2012 5:27 pm

Quote: I a quick search on 3M Perfect It compound. Ouch! The one site I saw was $65/quart.

Wow! That is a good price. I might have to search around before buying my next batch.

When I register my Manx II, I will ask Winnie about the top brackets, Thanks!

Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:24 pm

sbussard wrote: BIGMIKEY - The front tires are the same. I think I read in the specialty constructed vehicle guide that the entire tire has to be under the fender. I'm still not sure how mine will be titled, so it may or may not be an issue. I may end up needing to get new front rims with different backspacing. I've been striking out finding the ones I need to pull the tires inward. Someday, I do plan on replacing all of them with something shinier. 8)

I have all of the PENNDOT documentation and no matter how I read it a dune buggy is a Specially Constructed Vehicle. The issue seems to be how the individual Enhanced Inspection stations interpret the regulations on what a dune buggy needs to pass this enhanced inspection. My build isn't complete yet. When I finally do go through the PA Enhanced Inspection I will share what happens here on the SAMBA.

Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:57 pm

I the enhanced inspection station I stopped at before I started the project had told me I could either do it as a specialty constructed vehicle or a Beetle. I'm not sure how I could do it as a bug, but he was adamant I could. I've heard from others that the enhanced inspection experience has varied greatly. The mechanic I plan on taking it to for inspection is a childhood friend of a co-worker. Not sure if that made a difference, but it can't hurt. 8)

I guess I'll find out for certain next summer. I do have the original title for the pan in my name, saved all receipts, and taken many pics along the way.

Thanks,
Scott

Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:43 pm

I got a few things done.

Got all the blue tape pulled off. Thanks donbarnes for suggesting I remove it. It was starting to get tacky and I had trouble with removing it in a few places.

Roll bar padding installed. Covers marked for the holes that need made for the seat belt bungs, the mounting spots for the prop rods for the roof, and the roof latch. Dropped them off at a local seamstress today.

Got the gas tank fill pipe cut off. I thought I could shorten it, but there is no clearance to do that. Now I have to figure out which bolt on adapter to buy for a gas cap. Anyone have any suggestions or experience (good or bad)? I'm leaning toward this one--> http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=produ...prd107.htm

Started to mock up the passenger side pod. I had to modify it slightly to fit around the 3/4" conduit I ran front to back for wiring. Does anyone have any pics of underneath side of the rear wheel well? The side pod is not wide enough in the rear wheel well to fit the whole way from the fender to touch the body tub. It's 3-4 inches too narrow. Looking for suggestions/ideas on how how the rear portion attaches.

Here's how it sits today. It's starting to look like a car! :D

Thanks for looking.
Scott

Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:55 am

I am having a little trouble understanding your problem with the side pod attachment. If it is the far end near the tailights that just seems to be hanging in space, we put a clamp around the side intrusion bar and made a hanger that supports that end. I can give you a picture if you need one. Tom

Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:39 pm

Tom - Yes, you have the right issue. The rear wheel side of the pod fits up in the rear wheel well and there are no provisions to attach it. The lip on the pod is only ~1 inch where it sits under the fender side. And the wheel well side is 3-4 inches from the body. I envision it flapping in the wind and need to come up with a way to secure it.

I was thinking about using hot melt glue to fasten the outer lip of the pod to the underside of the fender. I don't want to bolt anything through that lip. Did you do anything for the outer edge?

For the inner part of the pod I'll either have to fab a bracket, but I'm not sure where I'd attach the bracket. If I understand you correctly, you fastened the bracket to the roll bar outside of the body that runs front to back? I was thinking I might be able to bolt a fabbed bracket to the upper shock mount. Or another idea was to use a wide spacer block between the inner part of the pod and the body made of teak or some similar hardwood. That block could be epoxied to the body and they use lag screws through the inner part of the pod into the wood.

Also did you do anything along the entire length of the pod where it touches the body? Double sided tape, felt, hot glue? Something to keep it from rubbing and making noise while driving? Or am I over thinking this and it won't cause noise? It's hard to tell how secure the pod will be and how much flex/movement it will have, without actually bolting it up.

Pictures would be great, if you have the time.

Thanks for your insight. It would be harder to build without your and everyone else's help. I appreciate it.

Scott

Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:25 am

Scott - we made 2 brackets like in the attached photo's that mount to the side intrusion bar near the "H" shaped rear support and the "C" hoop. The clamp is from Mcmaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-routing-clamps/=kgk4xb p/n 8863T81. The "L" shaped part is just sheet aluminum bent with (2) nutserts to hold (2) 1/4" SS button head bolts. You just have to be careful to get the length right to pull the end of the side pod up. I would not use any glue. Tom

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Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:24 pm

Perfect! Thanks Tom. Did you do anything with the outside edge? What about where the pod overlaps with the body along the entire length?

Scott

Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:25 am

We didn't do anything with the ouside edge. Maybe some rock gaurd would help, you are going to get some rubbing between the sidepod and the body. It is also normal for the passenger sidepod to hang lower in the rear by @ 1/2"

What are you using to fill the vent hole in the sidepod? McMaster Carr makes some nice SS wire screen that is much nicer than the galvanized "chicken screen" that is supplied with the kit. Tom

Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:08 pm

Thanks Tom for the heads-up about the passenger side typically sitting lower.

I have 3 different sheets of metal mesh. I just have to decide which I like best and have it powder coated. Any suggestions? I'll be running an air cooled vw motor, so I won't have radiators in the side pods and won't be concerned with air flow through them.

Sample #1 - can see through it easily. I originally picked this up to use for a skid plate under the motor, but have enough to also do the pod openings.

Sample #2 - Openings about 1/2 the size of sample #1

Sample #3 - Holes might close shut after powder coating, but the texture/dimples would still be seen.

Thanks,
Scott

Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:25 am

I guess I would go with the middle one. It would sort of hide the fact that there is nothing there, but not block it off. You should paint the inside that can bee seen black. Are you going to paint it (black) or leave it silver? You could always put an oil cooler in there. Tom

Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:37 am

What about backing the mesh with a piece of black HDPE Plastic? It can be had with a texture, has a satin finish and would give it a depth look behind the mesh. And you would not get debris/grit in the pod.

Cheap too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-Inc-Black-HDPE-Panel...564e4f2463