TheSamba.com :: View topic - ok forget the last one, how about a type 1 in a type 3?

Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:38 pm

I've seen it, I know it fits, it bolts right in, but does it work well with the stock type 3 transaxle? a type 1 engine in a 67 notch for instance...

Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:44 am

yes it will work. noisy as hell inside though.

Wed Sep 03, 2003 1:59 am

I think that cooling of the engine would be a problem. Unless you change the "upright" into a "pancake", using the stock type 3 tin. You also have to change the dipstick hole location? But I would have to agree with Skim, would probably be pretty damn noisy cause the engine lid would not be utilized.
nik

Wed Sep 03, 2003 5:55 am

if you changed all of the tin and the dipstick location it would be a type 3 motor those are the only differences.

Wed Sep 03, 2003 6:49 am

I would think carbon monoxide poisoning would be a problem with a type 1 in a type 3.

Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:34 am

Don't do it, an upright engine in a Type 3 sucks. I had a '63 Notch with an upright in it so I speak from experience

Here's why:
1. VERY loud. Even after you add additional soundproofing behind the rear seat, still VERY loud.
2. Shorter engine life, unless you completely seal off the engine, similar to a Type 1 install. Have fun sucking exhaust heat right into your engine
3. You usually have to trim the sides of the engine compartment for dual carbs, manifolds, etc.. Cutting on original metal (unless it's rust replacement) = bad idea.

Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:57 am

ok, so where's a good place to get a long block?

Wed Sep 03, 2003 8:07 am

I would try BAP. They advertise on here. Or you could do a search on this site in the business section and/or old threads.
nik

Wed Sep 03, 2003 1:49 pm

It's not worth it. It will heat up on you for sure.

Thu Sep 04, 2003 11:27 pm

LetsEffinGo - I have to echo Everett's sentiments...don't do it! You have to cut sheet metal to make it work. Back in the day (here i go) I bought a notch that had an upright engine in it. I was young and stupid and thought it was the bomb. When I went to resell the car years later, quite a few potential sales went sour once the buyer saw the engine compartment. There is quite a bit of hacking to do. It is your rig so do whatever you want, but you did ask.

Fri Sep 05, 2003 7:47 am

No I asked because I wanted to know the outcome of installing a type 1 engine. I'm taking all of your advice and I appreciate it. If I didn't ask I would have done it and found out the hard way. thanks!

Fri Sep 05, 2003 12:30 pm

I guess it depends on how involved you want to take it? If you wanted to make custom tin and proper sound proofing and duct work, You could make anything work. I like the T1 setup better than a T3 as far as working on them. I dont think I would want to convert one though.

Fri Sep 05, 2003 8:09 pm

I LOVE THIS PLACE! SAMBA THAT IS.

Sat Sep 06, 2003 1:40 am

The thing is, The type3 and type1 blocks are almost the same. If you want to use the tyoe1 cooling system is where you'll have the problems with noise and fumes. If you use a block from a type1 you just have to make sure you have a way to check and fill the oil cause the t1 has different setups for these. Most places that can sell you a type1 engine should be able to sell you a type3 engine. If not rebuilt at least with a new case cause the new cases are universal. They're made to accomidate The type3 cooling and oil filling systems with simple machining. If you order a long block for a type 3 it should fit a type 3.