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  View original topic: 32 PDSIT Float spring orientation
FiftyFive Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:41 am

Hi,

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction (or my spring at least), when I dis-assembled the carbs each one had the float spring installed differently and the service manual does not show a nice photo of th float installed (text says "install float")

Looking at the parts diagram should the spring go below the float or above it and with the curls up or down?

Item 36 below, is the diagram correct below the float and curls down?



Thanks Rich

BerT3 Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:36 pm

Above - curls down

BerT3

vdubin Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:20 pm

the spring curls down and the rod for the float goes between the curls not under

pitargue Mon Feb 22, 2021 10:34 pm

above or inbetween curls?

My rebuilt left hand side carb is over flowing with gas. (The right side is fine. Both floats are sitting below the curl spring thingy on both carbs.) It's pretty obvious that the float (no holes and perfectly fine) is not pushing up against the needle valve shutting off the fuel supply. I have the .5mm shim for the needle valve. So, I'm tempted to try above the curl spring thingy to push the float up more against the needle valve.

Any words of wisdom in getting the gas to stop overflowing into the venturi?

Bobnotch Tue Feb 23, 2021 3:41 pm

pitargue wrote: above or inbetween curls?

My rebuilt left hand side carb is over flowing with gas. (The right side is fine. Both floats are sitting below the curl spring thingy on both carbs.) It's pretty obvious that the float (no holes and perfectly fine) is not pushing up against the needle valve shutting off the fuel supply. I have the .5mm shim for the needle valve. So, I'm tempted to try above the curl spring thingy to push the float up more against the needle valve.

Any words of wisdom in getting the gas to stop overflowing into the venturi?

If you've just recently rebuilt the carbs, put the old needle and seat assembly back in them. I've found some of the new ones are kind of iffy.

Qldelsie Tue Feb 23, 2021 4:42 pm

Agree 100% with Bob. When I rebuilt my carbs recently, I put in new needles and one was sticky and caused overflow. I put my two original needles back in and they are working just fine. :lol:
I also managed to find a couple of original Zenith needles made in the UK that are now my spares. while the crap new (Chinese ?) ones have been marked "for emergency use only" !!!
G

pitargue Tue Feb 23, 2021 9:18 pm

BTW, when the left hand carb dripped, it was dripping from both brass tubes over the venturi as well as the cast part that goes over the venturi.

I took the carbs apart again and checked everything that I could.

Including the passageway for the air correction jet. (Some have said that a plugged passageway can create a siphoning effect.). Also checked the other passageways just in case. All clear to my satisfaction.

I measured and adjusted the brass tubes on the top half of the carbs that poke out over the venturi. And they were clear and not blocked as well.

Took a long hard look at the floats. No leakage, and the brass arms attached to the floats seem in spec compared to how to they sit and how they should push up on the needle valves.

Took a look at possibly putting the float over the curled ends keeper. But over the spring makes the geometry look wrong. In the curled portion also looks wrong. When the brass pin is under the curled keeper, it looks correct.

Took a long hard look at the needle valves. They seem to work as they stop passing air when pushed in. But the length of the needles are different. One is about 1 mm longer. And they feel really crusty inside if you spin the needle in the brass housing.

So, I'm concluding that the needle valves are shot. The ones from the Brosols are a bit different as they don't have the ball bearing in the center. And one of the bodies of the needle valves is a bit thicker than the other. Also one of the needle is also longer by 1 mm or so. Perhaps they equal out due to the different thicknesses and lengths.

So, where do I buy quality needle valves? The ones with the ball bearing in the center? The ones I have are marked 1.2. There's some in the Samba classified but are marked 1.5. Which ones are correct?

pitargue Fri Feb 26, 2021 1:14 pm

Following up.

Good video on rebuilding the carbs. https://youtu.be/TBqoUFbH8Qc

Bought new needle valves from Ebay. (Does not come with new washers). https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ORIGINAL-GENUINE-SOLE...2149828579

FYI. Hopefully helpful for someone in the future

Bobnotch Fri Feb 26, 2021 4:10 pm

pitargue wrote: Following up.

Good video on rebuilding the carbs. https://youtu.be/TBqoUFbH8Qc

Bought new needle valves from Ebay. (Does not come with new washers). https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ORIGINAL-GENUINE-SOLE...2149828579

FYI. Hopefully helpful for someone in the future

Let us know if they worked out for you.

pitargue Fri Feb 26, 2021 4:35 pm

Bobnotch wrote:
Let us know if they worked out for you.

Yup. It was the needle valves. Sorry, I was not clear on my followup.

Now, onto the next problem! :-)



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