TheSamba.com :: View topic - Oil drips

Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:17 pm

Last oil change, I installed both new (cardboard looking) gaskets and new copper washers and it still drips from the little bolts. I would think it just had to be so, but at Pomona last week I say a sweet old bus with zero drips!

What's the trick, gasket sealer (permatex 2) on the gaskets? other?
Thanks

Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:23 pm

Maybe start with a new sump plate, they can get dimpled where the 6 nuts go due to years of overtightening.

I never have used gasket sealer, just coat the gaskets with some grease to "glue" them up.

Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:41 pm

Use the acorn nuts. They will fill up with oil but it won't reach the ground. Using regular nuts allows oil to pass.

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=ht...=yfp-t-701

Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:18 am

maybe more specifically.. use the acorn nuts that come with the oil change/screen kit. they are deeper than "standard" acorn nuts. the seal idea is that the nut bottoms out on the washer rather than on the end of the stud. if they are bottoming on the stud, no seal. I used a caliper to measure the stud length vs. the height of the acorn nuts, make sure the stud is shorter - when fully tightened - than the nut is deep.

however, mine still weep. i use a nut driver to make sure I don't over tighten the nuts. the few times I've checked them, they have been a little on the loose side, so check them every so often - i figure the gaskets squish over time.

Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:30 pm

:idea: As a former VW mechanic and the son of a domestic mechanic learned a old trick back in the late 1930's when observing my dad repair the "dimples" on old 4 bangers and later straight 6 cyl oil pans.

He used then a ball peen hammer to tap down the dimples while I used a sm punch slightly rounded on the VW oil plate.....same results.

Problem many have is not doing that and as a result are over tightening the 6mm nut which ends up stripping out the b lock and now the OIL LEAK..

I learned many tricks from my dad that are a bit different but in the long run are similiar in theory and lasting results.

Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:48 pm

The top surface (facing the engine) must be flat. It's easy to fix on the stamped steel plates, but the aluminum plates are a nice improvement.
Mine are tapped for a 1/2 NPT hex plug.

Part # 93786A125 from McMaster seals much better than the copper washers.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-sealing-washers/=fkx1o7

The FEL-PRO Part # OS21625 oil charge gasket kit is the best I've ever used; 2 bucks at Rock Auto. It includes the copper washers if you insist on using them, but the buna/nitrile sealing washers noted above are much nicer.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=125859

With this combination of gaskets and washers, there's no reason to even think about over-tightening those delicate M6's.

Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:44 am

Mondshine's advice about the Fel Pro kit is right on. When I use any kit other than a Fel Pro, I have some seepage. With the Fel Pro I get no leaks whatsoever.
If you buy at Rock auto, you'll have to figure out how many to buy at one time to obtain the lowest shipping cost per unit. If I remember, getting 3 at a time reduces the cost the most.