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Thu Jun 25, 2015 5:45 pm

scrivyscriv wrote: Danwvw wrote: I just realized I forgot these little deflector plates on the L3 Heads! Are they even needed? Will they even fit these Chineese 043 Style heads?

The deflectors on mine are a loose fit.. your heads look like the deflectors will fit. Don't loose any sleep over how snug they are.

Those deflectors are probably the worst quality original German engine tin piece. The four tabs are bent into wedges that should fit snugly into the find gaps. The wedge bends can be altered to make them fit more snugly. Do not expect to snap all the pieces together like Lego set. Careful and thorough work breeds a better engine.

The lower HEAD deflector plates are extremely important in not loosing valuable cooling air. The intake valves are regularly receiving a cool intake charge, but he exhaust valves are living in Heat City, USA. The squares allow the cooling fan air to divert more air towards the exhaust side of the head since the intakes don't need as much of it.

The slot allows the thermostat rod to pass through, and the orientation is important for ease of installation. I forget which way is easier, but the thermostat rod has a bend in it that makes fan shroud installation picky. Observe your rod and use your spatial reasoning skills to make up for my lack of internet wisdom? :D

Robbie

Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:00 pm

Had to drill out the 1st slot to get the thermostat control rod to install properly, Here are some photos. Only lost one tab installing the little head deflectors!

Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:39 pm

Made a lot of progress! Just waiting on the Dellorto Rebuild kits now! Shop is a mess!

Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:24 pm

Here it is! Success!
Fisrt Start. This is the actual first attempt to start the engine! I had spent the entiere morning finishing up rebuilding the Dellorto 36mm Dual Carbs! Following this video clip I ran the engine 20 minutes at a raised RPM for the Cam, It Tunes nicer than my previous engine and has noticable more response. Not sure why it's better, Perhaps the L3 heads? Perhaps the Webcam 118 with the 1.25 Ratio Rockers? Very pleased!

Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:53 pm

Nice Build Dan. and are you happy with the exhaust system ?

I had a friend running that same system and let everyone know that he loved the deep tone.

Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:09 pm

No not that exhaust! It's Crap! I have just used it for starting engines out of the car! But Very Happy with the L3 heads in Combination with the Dellortos and the Webcam 118 Grind and with the 1.25 Rato Rockers the lift is right up there at about .460"!

Fri Jul 10, 2015 12:01 am

Those Monza exhausts sound good but not fun to be in the exhaust stream when you are tweeking carbs, and the rear exit gets caught in the vortex of the bus so you are dragging your exhaust along with you...

Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:49 am

Dan-

I'm glad everything worked out well! Nice engine!

Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:57 am

Sweet!
Congrats
Tcash

Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:03 am

Thanks, Yes the "Monza Style" by EMPI type of muffler sounds like a stock mufler without it's tips to me! I have never had it on the bus, I just keep it because it's handy for testing an engine. A Stock VW Exhaust would be better so one could hear the engine mechanics.
One thing with the Monza though, I have gotten used to Tuning with it and can tell by the sound if a cylinder is firing good or not. I can balance the carbs by ear with it.. First Start Tune Clip and First Start Run Clip videos.

Sun Jul 12, 2015 7:36 pm

Build Sheet:
1800cc Type 1 Engine.
Engine Case: 1972 Universal Case AS-41 Magnesium, Inserted for 10mm studs, Full Flow oil return and block off, Stock 1600 Cylinder Openings, Silicone Bronze Lifter Bores by Rocky Jennings.,
88mm Bore, 74mm Stroke,
Dual 36 DRLA Dellorto Carburetors,
Cam Web-Cam 118 with 286' 245' at .050" and .402" Valve Lift with 1.1:1 Rockers and with the 1.25's the lift is .456", Web-Cam 118 Profile
Heads DRD L3's are China 043 Dual Port cut for 90.5mm cylinders (No Step) 53cc chambers, L3 Porting and Port matched, these heads are with Single HD Springs.,
Solid Rocker shaft and Scat 1.25:1 Ratio rockers,
Scat Ball Adjusters,
Stock Push Rods (Stock Length)
Push Rod Tubes are CB Performance 1565 Large ID Racing,
Lifters are cb-performance 1537 UltraLightWeight 28mm,
CR 8.6:1
Rods 5.325" AA I Beam Rods from (Aircooled.Net),
Crankshaft: 74mm Counterweighted Scat,
Piston with Grant Rings and Cylinders 88mm AA ThickWall from (Texas Air Cooled),
Flywheel Stock VW Surfaced and drilled for 8 dowels,
Aluminum degree pulley,
Balanced by part and Dynamically with flywheel mounted to the crank,
Oil Pump 26mm Schadek with Empi Steel Full Flow Cover Plate,
Oil lines and remote filter CB-Performance 1732,
Oil Filter Wix 51515
Fuel Pump VW Mechanical, Bocar (short push rod alternator style)
Castrol GTX 5W30 motor oil with Lucas TB Plus Zinc Oil Additive,
Distributor German Bosch DVDA with points,
Generic Coil,
Bosch Spark Wires,
Spark Plugs Champian 7 heat range 3/4" reach 14mm,
Bosch 8L82 Used Alternator with internal voltage regulator,
Intake Manifolds offset: CB performance off-set with hex bar linkage and air-cleaners.
Current Air Correction are : 1.80
Mains: 1.32
Idle: .55
Venturi: 30mm.
Stock Heater boxes.

Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:42 pm

All that effort and you aren't using a unisyn?

Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:53 pm

Never got around to buying one! I can tell a really subtle difference in balance just tweeking the engine. Can't see that a "carb synchronizer" is going to make any difference. Am I missing something here? Can't tell much about where to set idle mixture adjusters, just going with 3 turns.

Wed Jul 15, 2015 2:00 pm

With the engine up and running and having done several test run periods out of the car, I am now chasing oil leaks. Got one on each side of the engine. Here is a photo of the #2 Cylinder. It looks to me to be coming from the lower cylinder studs where they pass into the oil area under the valve cover.
Started out with Orange silicone Gasket Maker on the head bolts but I think it probably broke it's seal when I re-torqued the heads the next day after putting them on. I cleaned it up and used 400 grit on the washers and nuts which seem pretty flat and just put them back on with silicone grease. It's better but it's till forming drips.
What to do?

Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:28 pm

I use Curil T on the lower head nuts/washers/studs (and cylinder bases). No problems after some miles and lower head nut re-torques. I do be sure the smooth side of the washers go against the head. I do go a bit over specification on head and case torque... 10mm head studs get 28 ft/lb (og spec is 24), 8mm get 22 ft/lb (og is 18 ft/lb). the big case nuts get 33 ft/lb. Been doing this for a while.

If your cases are not case saver'd (10mm) you should not just crank them to 28... Or if it's a GEX motor.

Wed Jul 15, 2015 5:58 pm

Yeah, I went to 25 ft/lbs on mine! Yes they are 10mm studs inserted with 14mm inserts! I never had this problem on my last engine! May be the Chinese heads don't have a good sealing area! Guess I will have to put something on the nuts. I have been avoiding buying the Curil-T for some time now, Looks like it may do the job!
Just came in from the garage, So what I did was remove the top tin and loosen all the head bolts then re-torque all of the ones on the 1,2 head going through both patterns given in the book. I went 10 lbs then switched patterns and went 20 then 24 then 27.5 ft lbs this resulted in the intake valves coming up tight but the exhaust were at about 3 and 4 thousandths inch!

Thu Jul 16, 2015 6:25 pm

After re-torquing 1,2 head, Still has oil leak! Movie of it revving: https://youtu.be/lu_ar8IHxaw

Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:31 am

Danwvw wrote: Still has oil leak!

I'm not leaking on mine - I went back together with Hylomar universal blue on the washers when I put mine together a few months ago. I can't imagine silicone grease being an appropriate sealant there.

http://amzn.com/B00J4Z7N9I

Sat Jul 18, 2015 12:06 pm

The Silicone Grease was just an experiment!
Only a couple of the head nuts are leaking bad! I had good results with RedLine CV-2 Cv joint grease which is good to 900' F or something on my last engine 10,000 miles and counting no serious leaks.
I think my problem with this one is something about the way the heads meet the nuts or the washers or something!
Your "Hylomar Universal Blue Sealant" sounds good, I Have already Ordered the Curil T though.

Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:12 am

Not sure where that oil is comming from: There acturally is no oil around the cylinder studs at eather end! Going to have to take the fan housing off again etc.. Just ordered the Scat Big Mouth Push Rod tube for it. The oil seems to be dripping off the center of #2 cylinder. Big Drops blown out about ever 5 seconds when the engine is hot and reved up. Thinking about adding some holes to the Cylinder tins so I can do a complete torque of the heads without removing the tin. Has anyone ever tried it?