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  View original topic: WIndshield Repair
ccb_dan Tue Sep 11, 2012 4:32 pm

OK, so I removed my windshields to install a new set of safaris and found this:





So, my question is how hard is it to do the lower windshield repair? And is this the one I need?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1183440

Maxim Tue Sep 11, 2012 4:42 pm

I don`t think you need to buy the new one. Clean this out and repair those holes... that`s all. It doesn`t look so bad on the photos.

ccb_dan Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:08 pm

Thanks for the reply. I value your input considering the considerable body work and welding you have done on your '67.

Se when you say "repair the holes" are you saying try to fill them with Bondo/filler or patch/weld them with small pieces of metal?

Campy Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:26 pm

As you must have noticed, the nose panel tucks beneath the window sills, which give them support.
I would not recommend tack welding over the holes onto the nose panel (bottom of sill) because it would make it much harder to remove the nose panel, some time. Also, the thin edges of the rusted out holes get blown out, easily, by a mig welder.
Hers is what I did to repair a few small holes in the sill of my 1963 camper:
1) I used the twisted wire wheel on my angle grinder to clean it all up, blew it out, then scuffed it up real well with 80 grit sandpaper, blew it out, and cleaned it with wax and grease remover.
2) I spread fiberglass filler (strong and waterproof) into and around the holes, sanded it down, leaving it a little rough, then spread finishing putty (a more expensive, fine-grain filler) over it and sanded it smooth, followed by painting it.
The top edge you could try welding with a mig welder at low heat and a piece of copper behind it (remove when through).

ccb_dan Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:53 am

Thanks Campy. I might give that a try this afternoon after work. I'm mainly concerned with having enough of an inner lip to mount the window gasket to, with those holes/divots there it won't grab hold properly and will undoubtedly leak...causing more problems.

Thanks again for the ideas.

Low Bräu Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:00 am

Unfortunately, Dan's bus didn't have enough of the rear lip to install the safari window seals. There was only about 1/8" of metal in areas. It might not be clear in the photos but someone had already laid a strip of metal over the rusted window sill and mig'd it in place then skimmed bondo and body puddy over the "fix". I am surprised the windows even fit the openings. The only way to correct the mess was a full lower window sill replacement. Luckily we have companies like Klassic Fab who make nice metal parts that fit. Doesn't show everything involved but here are a few pictures I took.


Low Bräu Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:31 am

A few more pictures to show what it looks like all welded in with the safari windows fitted.

I also run a very thin coat of seam sealer along the sill to nose seam and quickly wipe most of it off with a rag soaked with lacquer thinner. You don't want to lose the hard edge of the panel, you want to push a little seam sealer under the edge to keep moisture out.


ccb_dan Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:36 am

You did a killer job Josh. Thanks again for doing that for me.



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