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Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:49 pm

Planning on eliminating my rear heater core and seems like there’s some disagreement on whether to simply block the coolant lines, connect them together, or eliminate the T outside the Van. I know this has been discussed before, but I don’t come across a general consensus... I read about disrupting flow the front heater, circulation issues etc…

Option A seems simple and is least permanent
Option B seems simple but requires an adapter to connect hoses
Option C seems the best, but is most work and most permanent. If the heater should go back into the Van down the road, this will create additional work.

What should I do?

Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:01 pm

This has been discussed many many times. It comes down to
you need to block or remove the hoses. Connecting them
together will short loop the heater system preventing full
use of the front heater. It's been mentioned that its also
bad for the vans warm up cycle but have no direct experience
with that. Any rear heater I removed (for some one else I
prefer to have it) I do the job right and remove the hose
and t's. With my Bostig conversions coolant lay out it needs
a small amount of flow through the heater core loop at all
times. To keep things simple and not have heat on my feet
in the summer. I leave my rear heaters valve wide open. Unless
the fan is on no heat comes out. Any time I am under the
rear seat I cycle the shut off valve a couple times to keep
things moving. No problems and no leaks.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:27 pm

First rule of tinkering : 'Save all the parts'.

Global warming making things too hot up there in Montreal?

Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:15 pm

:bay_blue: All I can say, why! I love my rear heater, can run it and don't need the front heater. Saves the front blower, I would like to only change the rear blower motor, the front is a pain in the ass! Real cold use both, mine don't leak hot air so no heat in summer, it doesn't take up much room, so I say why! But I did add a front shut off valve just to help in the summer! :D

Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:21 pm

D: Don't remove heater - fix it properly.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:11 pm

Well we only use the van in the warmer season. April - November. So I've never turned it on. Even the front heater gets minimal use, rarely ever on more then half. The rear is leaking slightly from the valve I suspect. I have a papertowel down under and it's bright pink even with the valve closed, yes it smells. I really want the space!! Got my jack, fiemma leveling ramps, 2 camping chairs and my extension cord. I can barely close the seat. No other real places to store these big items... See where I'm going... Of course I will keep the heater on my shelf incase our needs change, but the ba6 (future propex) is there for any unexpected chills during the early and late season.

Winter here is murder to a vanagon. Salt salt salt. We have 2 other daily drivers to punish.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:58 pm

What about removing it pushing the hoses back under the van, and putting in a barb with a flow restricter. (piece of1/2" pipe squished in the middle)

In my 89 7pass. 2wd. I moved the whole unit over to the drivers side, to gain more room under the seat...just had run longer hoses,and make a new kick board....needed one anyhow
...most people don't even notice the difference

Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:09 pm

If I were to remove(to cold here to do that) I would connect and put in a restricter.

Try to mimic want the engineers did. Little things like this could defiantly change your coolant systems efficiency.

Even the climate you live in has a big effect on it. Just cause something worked for someone else might not in your area.

Jeff

Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:35 pm

I am doing away with the rear underseat heater because it wastes vital space under the seat. I am replacing it with the DOKA/Diesel floor duct that draws heat from the front heater core. Since I will be going turbo WBX and expect to do some touring in the mountains in summer, I am considering a supplimental radiator to help keep things cool if it needs it. I just might utilize the rear heater's hoses or T fittings to do it. We'll see.

Hans

Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:03 pm

i removed ours to gain much needed space, since we are never in the back with lucy running it seemed a waste of space.
for now i connected the pipes together under the back seat, not the best, i will fix that soon when i get the system drained while working on the motor

Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:24 pm

Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether.

If you're lazy or want to put the heater back someday, just cap the two hoses. Otherwise pull the tees from under the van and put an inline barb fitting in both hoses.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:52 pm

I used to carry a U shape bit of soft tubing, either 1/2" or 5/8" OD ??? with a ferrules soldered on each end. The tubing was pinched in the middle. When the heater would spring a leak, which happened all to often, I would just slip the hoses into each end of the "U", apply the clamps, and be on my way.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:00 pm

option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did.

Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:41 pm

I did 'B' as an emergency repair on the side of the road, but if your ditching the heater I say cap or plug the lines at the motor and ditch everything. As presslab mentioned, whats the difference between a closed heater and a blocked off heater? Maybe theres a reducer in there that allows flow while closed, but I doubt it. Compared to the radiator the heater core is small potatoes.

I prefer the space, now that I'm not in a cold climate. If I was still in Alaska theres no way I would give up the rear heater!!

Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:30 pm

presslab wrote: Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether.
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that :?

Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:58 am

Yep, take a good look at a system before you assume anything on it.

Little things add up and can make a difference.

Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:25 am

SSWesty wrote: option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did.

Yes, and with new lines front to back and no clamps there is even fewer failure points. The added space under the seat is much appreciated. Here in the rust belt, if it is cold enough to need the rear heater, the Westy should be in the garage stored for the winter at that point!

Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:32 am

SSWesty wrote: option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did.

X2 :!:

Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:33 am

goffoz wrote: presslab wrote: Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether.
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that :?

X2

Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:14 am

rubbachicken wrote: i removed ours to gain much needed space, since we are never in the back with lucy running it seemed a waste of space.
Same here. :!: Had an air-cooled Vanagon before, so the heat from the front is great. I did option "C", although I originally blocked off the line with stainless steel bolts, cutting the threads off and clamping onto the unthreaded zone under the head.

Next plan is replacing the Weekender sloping plastic bulkhead under the rear seat with a vertical wood one. Every increase in space means less stuff in back that has to be moved around, although I may add 6x9 speakers in removable boxes in the new bulkhead since I already own them.