TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:26 am

If you love your vehicle and want it to be around forever then it's time to wax it correctly. It should be done every 1-2 years and you can take it to a shop with a professional Waxoyl system or the like (Waxoyl is the most popular i think?) or you can do it yourself.
The benefit of waxing yourself (especially if you know the ins and outs of your car and it's classic rust areas) is you can take the time and pull all your door,lid,interior,plastic splash gaurds and body plugs and really get your wax to the the places most needed. This is the brand i use-
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It's sold at your local, professional paint supply store, or a brand similar. It sprays out thin to get in between those pinch weld and hard to reach areas and then slowly turns into a tree sap consistency. So it always stays flexible,which in unibody construction, is great since the vehicle is always twisting and bending. you can spray it on suspension parts, underbody rails & definatly behind repair areas- anywhere you know is a problem area. It is not chip resistant so prep erosive areas with and undercoat or chip gaurd.
Interested in seeing what other favorite brands or methods/systems are out there. What do you guys use?

Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:39 am

our local guys use (and swear by) Fluid Film
a non petroleum rust proofing agent developed for the military to keep boat & submarine ballast tanks from rusting.

http://www.fluid-film.com/

it's applied by spray can, brush, or via a Wagner paint pro. $26~30/gal is the best bang for the buck.

Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:29 am

I use paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits (homebrew waxoyl basically).

Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:45 am

Timely post Blair :!:

Hey Dan....I finally picked up some fluid film the other day to test.
Man that stuff has some wicking action :!:
It dove into the seam and had bubbles for about 15 seconds.

I wiped off the excess and reapplied a few hours later.
The seam was not rusted but there is a crack in the seam sealer.
Not the greatest test subject as this van hibernates over the winter, but as a preventative we shall see.

Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:52 am

The Wurth Multi Sprayer, underbody seal and cavity protection wax

http://insyncro.wordpress.com/2012/08/23/underbody...i-sprayer/

Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:53 am

You need something very thin to get into all the places salt water can get to.

Salt water wicks everywhere and starts-a-rusting away. It is hard to get all the places that rust starts like under the window seals, door weather striping and inside every panel/channel under the floor.

My experience (about 25years) with waxoyl products in upstate NY has not been that great. It's better than nothing but only slows down the rusting process. After about 6 winters with waxoyl applied on a brand new vehicle on a dry July day, rust could be found in areas where panels came together, door seams etc. The waxoyl couldn't get into the tight areas completely.

A guy in Syracuse told me of how they basically "dip" their ford ranger pickup truck in Fluid Film every fall. They take the bed off and just spray the crap out of it and the cab. It is held up well. That is the type of process you need to prevent rust. Everything, and I mean every square inch inside and out must be treated in order prevent rust. Like Neil Young says, "Rust Never Sleeps"

Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:55 am

Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust has worked very well in my trials.
Very cost effective stuff.
Technically, this stuff is a wax.

Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:57 am

MayorMcCheese wrote: I use paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits (homebrew waxoyl basically).

Bees wax and bar and chain oil, heated, was my first home brew application. :D

Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:35 am

Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:18 am

Just ordered a few cans of Waxoyl Hardwax and interior!

Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:18 am

not speaking from experience but i imagine that shops that do the Waxoyl system are kinda just generalizing every car- just hitting the basic areas, jambing a wand into a blind area and kinda crossing their fingers. That's just how it feels to me. i'll bet they don't spray any behind/underneath windshield gaskets. Does Waxoyl do that horrific hole drilling/plugging that Ziebart used to do?
Also, how's the fumes from Fluid Film? Take a day or two to fully dissipate?
pics of beetle inner quarter before/after wax-
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Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:40 am

Fluid Film's MSDS
http://www.fluid-film.com/downloads/aerosol_msds.pdf
seams like really good stuff- more available perhaps.

Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:45 am

Fluid Film smells like sour apple candy...kinda.

I sprayed it two days ago and wiped it from the exterior.
It is raining today and the water beads and rolls right down the seam and I dont see any gaps in the film.

I had a Zeibart Syncro here years ago... I stopped counting at 35 plugged holes that they made.
In there defense, the van did not have advanced rust, just exterior surface rust.
The usual interior spots that rust if not coated were very clean and protected.
I couldn't look past all the holes they drilled and sold off the van.
Pretty much seeing that started my quest for the Wurth applicator and 60" wands.

Fri Sep 28, 2012 1:55 pm

Posted elsewhere regarding KROWN and the Canadian military...it's become my standard here in rust central. Honestly as long as the material displaces water, and is properly applied, the biggest issue is application.

When you take a few vehicles apart it's very obvious very few shops do a really good job applying treatment. How many of your vans have the fridge and accessory area properly treated? Unless you did it yourself, likely very few. Typically I just expect my $125 to cover a good coat on exposed undercarriage.

Like Mr. Insync, I invested in a cavity gun and some brake line to make my own applicator tools. Maybe the single best tool purchase with respect to corrosion management. Neither of my older vehicles see winter..but they still sure rust without carefull attention every 1-2 years.

Some of the pics Ben has posted of Quebec vans with rust are brutal..we have the same conditions here.