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Mon Jul 29, 2024 12:40 pm

And I was using ether to try to get it going.

Mon Jul 29, 2024 4:39 pm

pulling the central wire won't tell you much. Need to pull a spark plug wire at the spark plug end. Better yet, remove a plug and with wire attached, hold it close to intake (with pliers). You should see it spark. Or not.....

Mon Jul 29, 2024 6:33 pm

Get yourself a 12v test light and see if there is power to the #15 coil connection with the ignition key in the run position.
If you have no power the + side of the coil, it will not start.

Also, your generator needs to be clocked 90° clockwise. Other wise it is not cooling properly, as it is right now.

Mon Jul 29, 2024 7:35 pm

Would a multimeter tell you the same thing as a light?

I don't have a test light but I do have a multimeter I can use.

Wouldn't the center wire be at the same voltage as the wires going to the spark plugs?

And I will rotate the generator over, does it matter which 90 degrees? Clockwise or counterclockwise?

Mon Jul 29, 2024 7:38 pm

Would a multimeter tell you the same thing as a light?

I don't have a test light but I do have a multimeter I can use.

Wouldn't the center wire be at the same voltage as the wires going to the spark plugs?

And I will rotate the generator over, does it matter which 90 degrees? Clockwise or counterclockwise?

Mon Jul 29, 2024 8:35 pm

Cantfigureitout03 wrote: Would a multimeter tell you the same thing as a light?

I don't have a test light but I do have a multimeter I can use.

It will tell you more. A test light will come on if there is adequate voltage to illuminate the bulb. As little as 6v can do that. You can use a multimeter to check the voltage on the positive terminal of the coil. Turn the key to the "ON" position. This should energize the coil. Set your multimeter to DC voltage (40v or less range), put the positive probe on the coil positive terminal and the negative probe on a good ground point on the engine block. The meter should read close to 12v.

Mon Jul 29, 2024 8:53 pm

Cantfigureitout03 wrote:

And I will rotate the generator over, does it matter which 90 degrees? Clockwise or counterclockwise?
Clock wise. CCW will make things worse.

Tue Jul 30, 2024 7:32 pm

Definitely getting voltage to the ignition coil. Can't get a spark to happen, took the wire that goes to one of the spark plugs and connected a new spark plug and held to ground. Never saw a spark happen.

Wed Jul 31, 2024 12:57 am

This is where I put the multimeter to check for voltage. Got 12 volts going from the positive side of the coil to the air intake.

Also, rotated the engine around until the contactor? was separated and checked for continuity with the contacts. I was getting continuity with the contactor separated. I checked the resistance of the primary and secondary coil and got about 4 ohms on the primary and maybe 5000 on the secondary. It matched the value of the previous coil.

The top half of the distributer is new.

Have replaced the the coil, condenser on the distributer, the distributer cap and the rotor.

Just can't seem to get a spark to develop. Battery voltage is also good at 12 volts.

Wed Jul 31, 2024 1:25 am

With the ignition on and with a screwdriver can you get sparking at the points when you short out between the two sides of the points?

Is the carbon pin on the distributor cap in place?

Wed Jul 31, 2024 7:03 am

Been a long time, but I think there is a specific way to install the points to prevent voltage from escaping through the attachment point....

If not, then I just woke up and haven't had coffee yet.....

Wed Jul 31, 2024 9:36 am

I did not try sticking a screw driver between the points. You are talking about putting a screw driver right where I drew the arrows correct?

The distributer cap does have a metal piece right in the middle. Its brand new and looks to be in good condition.

We tried getting a spark from the wire from the ignition coil and with everything hooked up and taking a wire from one of the spark plugs and turned the engine over and no spark.

Bcferrini, if you are talking about the hold down clips those were all buttoned up during our tests. You talking about something else?

Wed Jul 31, 2024 10:23 am

Cantfigureitout03 wrote: Also, rotated the engine around until the contactor? was separated and checked for continuity with the contacts. I was getting continuity with the contactor separated.
Time to read: https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/understanding-breaker-point-ignition-systems/

Short version is it sounds like your points are bad, as there shouldn't be continuity between the two contacts when they are open.

Wed Jul 31, 2024 11:25 am

Even if the distributer is bad, shouldn't I be able to get a spark off of the coil? I removed the center wire from the distributer and had that center wire close to ground and I never saw a spark. That should cut the distributer out of the loop right?

Wed Jul 31, 2024 11:44 am

67rustavenger wrote: Get yourself a 12v test light and see if there is power to the #15 coil connection with the ignition key in the run position.
If you have no power the + side of the coil, it will not start.

Also, your generator needs to be clocked 90° clockwise. Other wise it is not cooling properly, as it is right now.

The engine may burn up; before the generator does, with the large fan shroud hose connections open!

Wed Jul 31, 2024 11:48 am

Remove the black wire(s) on the hot side of the coil. These lead to the idle solenoid and choke. Then test with a light or VOM and see if the points are opening and closing.

Those two devices are connected to the hot coil lead, and thus are unfused. A short in either wire or device can prevent the coil from charging.

Note with the idle solenoid unplugged you won't get fuel, so it won't run thus way. but it removes one more variable/failure point while you are troubleshooting the ignition.

Wed Jul 31, 2024 11:54 am

Cantfigureitout03 wrote: Even if the distributer is bad, shouldn't I be able to get a spark off of the coil?

It is the points and condenser that create the spark.

I was referring to the 'strap' on the points which mounts to the tab on the dist. plate. (not the point gap adjuster screw-the other one)

Wed Jul 31, 2024 4:01 pm

Cantfigureitout03 wrote: Even if the distributer is bad, shouldn't I be able to get a spark off of the coil? I removed the center wire from the distributer and had that center wire close to ground and I never saw a spark. That should cut the distributer out of the loop right?
Read the information at the link I posted earlier and you'll begin to understand how and why the ignition system works. The answer to this question is contained within the first several paragraphs.

When you can understand how something works, it makes it much easier to understand what can cause it to not work and how to determine what that cause is. :wink:

Thu Aug 01, 2024 10:51 am

Cantfigureitout03 wrote: Is there something obviously wrong with my wiring? My car won't start. I tried disconnecting the central wire going to the distributer and held it close to the intake to see if I could get a spark and nada.

Looks okay.

Why is the fuel line sitting on the exhaust? Not a good idea.

Thu Aug 01, 2024 11:06 am

To test primary ignition with a simple test light, shift to neutral, set brake. Clip test light clamp to - side of coil (green wire). Ground light probe, power up ignition and roll the engine over at the gen/alt pulley or have a helper crank engine. If the test light blinks, under the cap and coil are good. If the light stays on steady or doesn’t light at all… there’s your trouble.