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Zeitgeist 13 Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:56 am

It appears to be a metal housing, which I assume is superior to a plastic item


kalispell365 Sun Feb 23, 2014 1:05 pm

This has me inspired,I don't see any reason why I couldn't just cut the little metal rod off the motorcraft one pictured and drill a small hole for the vw heater cable??

I bet the metal one would last forever...

jslew Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:21 pm

The metal one looks awesome, but the point of weakness is the lever pivot. The NAPA 660-1141 part is definitely better quality than the german valves. The arm that the cable mounts to is metal. I was able to cut and bend it to fit the cable more like the stock valve. I welded it back together & it was a perfect fit. Goes all the way open and all the way shut. I sure enjoy doing things twice :roll:

b00t Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:22 pm

I too an in the midst of replacing a two year old replacement, leaks and it's so difficult to turn on it snapped the wire.

Question. Is the cable available from Napa as well? Know any replacements? Broke at the lever about an inch back.

Would be nice to control the heat, feast or famine around here!

austinindian Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:27 pm

Did anyone on this thread with the replacement Napa part have any issues down the road. I'm looking for a quick swap out of my front heater control valve. It just started to leak and it's about a year old.

Dampcamper Mon May 05, 2014 8:29 pm

b00t wrote: I too an in the midst of replacing a two year old replacement, leaks and it's so difficult to turn on it snapped the wire.

Question. Is the cable available from Napa as well? Know any replacements? Broke at the lever about an inch back.

Would be nice to control the heat, feast or famine around here!

Hey, FWIW, I just replaced the core in my control cable using some "Music Wire" (stiff steel wire, comes in a coil, "real" hardware stores sell it, not home centers) As I recall, I used 0.059" diameter which is like 1.5mm. You have to bend your own ends, this stuff is stiff! Grease it lightly when you insert it into the cable housing, it's steel and will rust if not coated.
Now I have to buy the Ford valve, mine is FUBAR.

Crankey Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:33 pm

I just bought a valve that functions like this:


it's also a ford unit. it's got a very short linkage arm and a vaccume switch, which can be unbolted from the valve. so a bracket for a cable can be made bolt on that spot too.

the reason I bought it was I want my heater coolant to flow back through the circuit when not used for heat. I don't want it to dead end there. that coolant flow is needed for the thermostat and I feel like, this way coolant flows in this circuit regardless of weather I want heat or not.

photogdave Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:22 am

Crankey wrote: I just bought a valve that functions like this:


it's also a ford unit. it's got a very short linkage arm and a vaccume switch, which can be unbolted from the valve. so a bracket for a cable can be made bolt on that spot too.

the reason I bought it was I want my heater coolant to flow back through the circuit when not used for heat. I don't want it to dead end there. that coolant flow is needed for the thermostat and I feel like, this way coolant flows in this circuit regardless of weather I want heat or not.

Smart!
I always keep my rear heater "open" for the same reason and also because I worry about the core drying out.

vanis13 Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:15 am

Crankey wrote: I just bought a valve that functions like this:


it's also a ford unit.

part# or vehicle/year?

I've been looking for that for my subi transplant.

Crankey Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:35 pm

here's info for the valve :)

Quote: Crosses to : Four Seasons 74809 AC Delco 15-5829 Motorcraft F87Z-18495-AA

Fits the followingFord Vehicles:

Ford Aerostar (1994-1997)
Ford Explorer / Sport / Sport Trac (1994-2005)
Ford Ranger (1995-2004)
Mazda Pickup (1995-2004)
Mercury Mountaineer (1998-2005)

where I got it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-Explo...&rt=nc

Snort Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:40 am

I can confirm that part fits 1994 Explorer, designed to work with the Max AC. The heat control in the cabin is designed to work by regulating air flow over the heater core. Shutting off the coolant to the core for Max AC eliminates any heat leak into the airbox. It's not designed for regulating coolant flow, just all-on or all-off.

vanis13 Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:22 am

I got this vale and tried to make it work w/the VW cable but no go.

I ended up doing this $4 solution by replacing the OEM valve with an OEM valve -
http://www.hansautoparts.com/171819809EHeaterValve.aspx

My other alternative woudl be this solution wich is ~$100 on ebay and woudl allow the coolant loop for the Subi conversion.

http://www.thermotion.com/topic/18-electronic-coolant-control-valve.aspx

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bypass-Heater-Val...mp;vxp=mtr








Crankey Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:15 am

it was suggested to me I could use the valve with the vac switch pulling a vacuum line from the brake booster and a dash mounted vac switch.

if you had a welder and some simple metal fab tools you could make an extension on the valve arm and use the cable pull. it could work, just a little fabrication required.

t3 kopf Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:07 am

Just thought id throw a heads up that the manufacturers part number for this valve shows autozone 5852 or 74628 which i just bought for 15 bucks at the counter today. Its already installed. I wonder if Van Cafe even knows that these mayle valves leak notoriously?

metropoj Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:54 am

b00t wrote:
Question. Is the cable available from Napa as well? Know any replacements? Broke at the lever about an inch back.

I picked mine up from Frank Condelli. I had a hell of a time finding the cable anywhere else.

I had put a new valve in last year. Within Mine didn't leak at the arm but the input pipe to the valve had melted / disformed and started leaking ! The more I tightened, the worse it got.

I ended up putting my old one back in as I did it as a preventative maintenace parts. I'm going to look into this option when I do my heater core. Thanks for the ingenuity guys !

proofpudding Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:47 pm

b00t wrote: I too an in the midst of replacing a two year old replacement, leaks and it's so difficult to turn on it snapped the wire.

Question. Is the cable available from Napa as well? Know any replacements? Broke at the lever about an inch back.

Would be nice to control the heat, feast or famine around here!

Pretty sure a bike cable would work well. Can pick up a brake or shifter cable (slightly different gauge) for a dollar or two at any bike shop. They will usually throw some cable ends in for free too.

ysrebob Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:34 am

Thank you for posting this workaround! Original heater valve on my bus lasted 30 years; the replacement part started leaking within a week. Fixed with modified Ford part; now maybe it will last another 30.

Extremely poor quality of replacement parts is starting to make it challenging to keep these old vans on the road -- even if parts are still apparently "available" they're sometimes next to useless.

DAV!D Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:44 am

Since this topic is already bumped..

My heater does not leak coolant, but it's like my heat is always on with hot air always blowing from which ever vent is open. Does replacing this valve also fix that issue, or is it a diffrent problem all together?

Zeitgeist 13 Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:20 am

I'll bet the foam on the flaps in the climate box is rotted or completely AWOL. The valve should help address the hot air issue, and the foam helps fix where and how it emerges. Plan on replacing the heater core, blower and resistor pack (w/Jeep part).

FNGRUVN Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:00 pm

I finally got around to hooking up the control cable on the Ford valve today while I was replacing all the heater hoses. It's only been two years since I installed the valve. :oops: The Ford valve's cable bracket wasn't angled the same as the original, making the cable hookup very difficult.

After looking it over for a while, I decided to move the valve inside the cab. This would make the whole job much easier.

I flipped the bracket over to the other side of the valve and reused the original shaft arm, after bending a jog into it.







I used a brass barbed coupling to join the two hoses together where the valve used to be.



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