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chris garrett Fri Feb 12, 2016 2:33 pm

My local Napa had both of the valves in stock (1140 and 1141). As stated, they flow in two different directions, othewise they are the same. What I cannot understand is how you got them to work correctly with the dash control. Do all Vanagons slide the lever right for heat? If so what's the trick to make these work correctly. When you slide the lever to the right, you would be closing these two valves.

FNGRUVN Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:38 am

I don't know about all Vanagons, but mine moves to the right for heat. I don't remember which valve I bought, but I don't think it matters since you can remove the cable bracket and mount it to the other side of the valve. I might be wrong, though.

Does your valve setup look like my pictures?

chris garrett Sat Feb 13, 2016 5:34 pm

Yes, it moves to the right for heat. I suppose they all do. I finally have it figured out, but I bent the hell out of the cable experimenting with different configurations. I ordered a new cable, but at least I know how to do it now.
You had mentioned that you notched the dash cover. Was that for the cable to fit? My dash is off right now, so I'm not sure how it will all go together.
Thanks for your help.
Chris

FNGRUVN Sat Feb 13, 2016 7:49 pm

The valve lever will hit the plastic cover. You'll see what I mean when you slide it in place and then slide the heat control to the right. I think I used a hole saw to cut just enough material to clear the lever. You can't see the hole unless you really look for it.

I like the idea of placing the valve here for a couple of reasons. It will be really easy to replace in the future and being inside the van and out of the elements, I might not ever have to replace it.

I'll just let the picture do the talking.


chris garrett Sun Feb 14, 2016 6:50 am

Thanks for your help FNGRUVN. Appreciate the picture.

djkeev Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:28 am

I utilized this valve, very happy with it's installation and function.......

djkeev wrote: Next Project while the cooling system is empty, the spare tire is gone and the radiator and fan are out...... A new Heater control Valve.

Now I've read the horror stories about how bad the replacement VW proper valves are, they leak in short order and the control cables are said to be near to impossible to clip on and adjust!

Someone mentioned a Ford Valve at some point.
My parts guy had this, fits older ford Pickup Trucks.......

******************
EDIT: this Valve fits.......

Application Summary: Dodge Pickup - Fullsize / Ramcharger (79-69 ) ; Van - Fullsize (97-78 )>> Ford Bronco (77-66) ; E Series full size Van (67-65) ; F Series Full Size Pickup (72-65) >> Plymouth PB Series Van (79-78 )

Dodge
A100 Truck: 1969 - 1970
B100: 1978
B150: 1987 - 1994
B1500: 1995 - 1997
B200: 1978
B250: 1987 - 1994
B2500: 1995 - 1997
B300: 1978
B350: 1987 - 1994
B3500: 1995 - 1997
D100: 1978 - 1979
D100 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
D150: 1978 - 1979
D200: 1978
D200 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
D300 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
Ram 1500 Van: 1995 - 1997
Ram 2500 Van: 1996 - 1997
Ram 3500 Van: 1996 - 1997
W100 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
W150: 1978 - 1979
W200: 1978 - 1979
W200 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
W300 Pickup: 1969 - 1971
Ford
Bronco: 1966 - 1977
Club Wagon: 1965 - 1967
Econoline: 1965 - 1967
F-100 Pickup: 1965 - 1972
F-250 Pickup: 1965 - 1972
F-350 Pickup: 1965 - 1972
Plymouth
PB100: 1978 - 1979
PB200: 1978 - 1979
PB300: 1978 - 1979

*********************



It is flow direction noted but the control bracket unscrews and can flip 180* as needed.

The VW valve stops water from flowing into the heater core. It is in the feed line from the cylinder head.
The flow arrow will point to the heater core.

This valve also "pushes" to stop the flow and "pulls" to turn on the flow like VW's valve does.

Dave

djkeev wrote: I removed the VW Heater Valve.....
God I HATE those spring hose clamps in tight quarters!

I pulled the operating cable up into the Van and modified the end to fit the Ford Valve. I Had to make a few tight coils.......



I then hooked up the valve to the cable and made adjustments to enable full shut off and on with the proper lever travel.

I wrapped a piece of tape around the cable to mark the clamp location on the cable housing and shoved it back through the grommet. I hooked up the cable and adjusted it according to my tape mark.

Once hooked up to the cable it was obvious that I had to lose a bend in the hose that had accommodated the VW Valve.
I Snipped off the last 90* and clamped the now straight hose onto the valve.
The lower outlet port of the Valve simply slips onto the heater hose coming in from the Head.







And a view of the new Valve in place with the operating cable attached......



Dave[/b]

phoosty Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:59 am

Hi all, newbie-lurker here with a first post:
Wanted to thank the OP and all other contributors to this thread for guiding me through this fix. Replaced an original VW valve on my '85 Westy with the 660-1441 yesterday, in the stock location, using the OP's approach. No other modifications whatsoever, and works like a charm. Only cost 30 bucks and the skin from two knuckles.
I did want to ask about purging the bit of air that must have gotten into the heater core. It's been mentioned that this will 'self-purge', but doesn't the top of the heater core sit above the top of the radiator? Does the coolant circulation really get this air to either the radiator or the coolant reservoir where it can be bled?
The heater seems to function (mostly) normally on initial testing, it seems just a bit cooler than before the fix (hot, but not *really* hot).

djkeev Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:34 pm

Yes, it self purges. Run it with the heater on, the air is such a small amount it will move out and be expelled from a properly operating sealed system.

Dave

chris garrett Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:56 pm

Dave,
I'm going to copy what you did. My only concern is cutting the hose to take out the bend. I have to check and see if I have enough slack in the heater hose coming in to take up the missing piece. If I pull the hose from the engine too tight, it can interfere with the automatic shift linkage.
I ordered rounded pliers. I hope I can copy your expert loops. I've never used rounded pliers before, do you have any tips on using them?

djkeev Mon Feb 15, 2016 2:09 pm

I did have the luxury of new heater hose front to rear so yes, carefully look at your available length before cutting.

Another option is to put it in the cab as shown.

No real words of wisdom about round nose pliers.

Practice on some paper clips first, they are more pliable and you can get a technique developed before attacking your heater cable.

Dave

chris garrett Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:59 pm

Dave,
I pretty much copied what you did and something is wrong. The control lever for the heat only moves half way. No matter how I adjust things the movement of the new valve does not equal a complete movement of the lever. I put 2-3 loops in the wire. What did I do wrong?

Paulbeard Mon May 23, 2016 5:24 pm

Hmm, I had the same issue with the lever travel not matching the value's movement. And now the valve (installed less than a year ago) has quit working. It's stuck open (passing hot coolant to the core) and the lever just turns and turns. Not sure I want another of these. Did I break it by pushing the dash control lever too far or was it just crappy?

If these are a standard size or close enough that the clamps will seal it, I may try a more reputable brand.

RichBenn Tue May 24, 2016 1:15 pm

I used this valve. Spent forever going back and forth between underneath the van and the front panel adjusting both positions. Now, months later, getting ready for a trip, it seems to be letting heat in. Aargh!

I think someone sourced a real German version of the factory valve, not the Meyle Chinese one that goes for $5.95. It went for big bucks, but it would have been SO worth it.

Howesight Tue May 24, 2016 2:06 pm

I tried brand new VW heater valves and aftermarket units as well. For me (others seem to have had better luck), there was always some leakage and at least some heat bleeding through.

So, I kept the Vanagon heater valve as is, but I added a second heater valve (normally closed configuration) that is on/off, (no in-between position), and installed it very close to the engine. Works great. The heater control valve is from Nostalgic Air Conditioning (NAC), part number 77-3005. Mine was all metal, but their catalogue now shows a metal/plastic unit:

http://nostalgicac.com/controls-motors/heater-valv...rated.html

The NAC valve is normally open and is closed by manifold vacuum. I attached the vacuum chamber to manifold vacuum through a vacuum hose that is interrupted by a Toyota vacuum control valve. The Toyota vacuum control valve is found doing many jobs on many Toyota vehicles (early 1980's to late 1990's), both controlling AC "idle up" and other vacuum functions. I had one sitting around.

The vacuum valve is powered by 12 volts and I connected it to a micro-switch on the heater control lever inside the dash so that when the heater lever is pushed all the way to the left, the switch is connected, powers the Toyota vacuum valve to close, which cuts the vacuum to the heater valve, which then closes under its own spring pressure.

Since doing this, I get no hot (or even warm) air out of my heater box, even in the hottest weather.

Here is a pic showing the installed NAC heater valve. The yellow arrows point to the heater hose. The green arrow points to the lever on the NAC heater valve. The blue arrow points to the vacuum can on the NAC heater valve.





Here is a pic showing the Toyota electrically-operated vacuum switch. The red and green arrows point to the vacuum lines to manifold vacuum and to he NAC heater valve, respectively. The yellow arrow points to the electrical connector. The blue arrow shows the tiny air filter that Toyota uses to keep dirt out of the vacuum system. Note that the VW "idle up" valves used on 1983.5 to 1985 Vanagons for AC and power steering idle speed increase would also do the job and can be found here and there.


djkeev Tue May 24, 2016 3:35 pm

I haven't any operational issues with my Ford Valve.

I also installed TK's in line manual shut off valve to absolutely prevent any hot water flow into the heater core.

Very happy with my setup!

Lubrication of the cables and proper cable housing/ operating cable alignment is critical for smooth ooeration.

Dave

Paulbeard Tue May 24, 2016 5:34 pm

I just ordered the Balkamp (NAPA part 6601140) and will see if I can swap it in tomorrow. It will replace an in-cab switch behind the vent shroud.

It's 4-5 times the cost of the generic valve I put in a few months back and I am hopeful it is more durable. The TK shutoff is an option as well but that will come later, probably in tandem with a rear heater delete.

sped372 Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:16 am

After noticing some drips under the spare tire pan, I've joined the 1141 revolution. Thanks for the tip!

dobryan Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:16 am

I used the valve inside and was able to zip tie the control cable to it with no cable modification at all. The cable only travels about 3/4 of the previous throw so the lever does not go all the way to the right when it is full on, no big deal.




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