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Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:05 am

Guess I will get on the bandwagen as well, here is my new project, I have know about this car for a long time but the owner would not budge on selling it, but times changed and I stopped by and talked again and he decided that I could have it only if I didn't chop it up and make it into a rat rod, or do something crazy with it. It was his wife's daily diver since the early 80's and they purchased it from the original owner that purchased from a Tacoma Washington VW dealer in Winter of 64.

A few years after driving the lady decided the car needed more owner for the freeway so out came the 1300 and in went a 1967 1500, with a 1641 jug kit, they also cammed it, put on dual Brosol Carbs, and a few other goodies internal, balanced and blue printed, freeway flier transmission, scat short throw shifter, header, 12 volt conversion, hide away mufflers in the fender wells, and redid the seats in black vinyl and new black flooring.

Its all original steel, other then some body work due to a minor incident in the snow, the PO did a pretty good job doing the repairs, and as far as I have found it seems rust free.

It will be a decent project for me, I recently became disabled and unable to work full time, so it will finally give me something to work on to keep occupied and out of the way from my family...LOL Anyway looking forward in posting as the project goes on>

First up, the motor has to come out and get some new seals installed.

Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:13 am

Other then the PO cutting holes in the firewall/ trunk floor for speakers the car is totally unmolested, even has new kingpins up front, steering wheel is flawless, gauges work, lights work, even found the passenger foot rest under the rear seat, and a broken drivers door mechanism thats now some what fixed, I am just going to get it running right, put some rubber on it, and get the brakes working right, and just drive it this summer till I can get the shop cleaned out enough to tear it down next winter.

Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:32 am

Lokks like you have found a good solid car good luck on your build.
Dan

Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:14 am

Remove the fuel filter from the engine bay for safety and a Samba approved ACVW. :)

Looks great!

Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:39 pm

Started engine removal prep, wasn't too happy with a few things I found, but its all fixable and parts replaceable. But for a 50 year old car its all good!

Home made riser plate covers, and the air tubes were like this after I removed the front tin, they just had plastic tubes running thru the tin from the doghouse to apparently nothing..lol

I think I will find a better way of making the crossover from the manifolds when it goes back in

I about fell over when I removed the twisted mess of the fuel lines between the carbs, the had compression ferrels on the ends of the copper fuel lines, and just stuck them in short rubber hoses to the inlets to the carbs.

No tube thru the doghouse

Curious to know if the distributor is correct for the way the engine is built

Alternator or Generator?

Other then finding the motor way over filled on oil, and tons of fuel leaks around all that mess of piping, I say so far so good.

Carbs and fuel pump are marked Brosol/ Solex

Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:42 pm

Received my new Empi throttle linkage, with new cable, doghouse tube, flexible tube and pedal repair kit from Jbugs today. Looks like they will becoming good friends as this build goes.. :lol:

Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:05 pm

Carbs are kadrons and appears to be an alternator not sure of make but looks pretty cool meaning its different than what I have seen in the past.

Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:09 pm

Not sure of the distributor but I run a stock engine with dual kads and have had really good performance using an 019 distributor.

Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:43 am

Not much to report today, with the messed up weather today, I didn't get much done.

Found that my dual Kads have to be completely gone thru and the throttle plates have to be rebushed or replaced. Sprayed more PB Blaster on the header bolts and riser nuts, still are not budging.

I am hoping I didn't crack the head this afternoon, I went to remove the risers since they don't clear the body for the engine removal, and one would not budge, sprayed more PB and used my heat gun to warm the area up (120-130F), and went at it again only to get a loud POP and rammed my knuckles into the edge of the body. Broke the stud loose and not the nut. :x

Sprayed more PB on it shut the hood and walked away for the night.

Does anyone have a pic or 2 of the correct way the fuel line is supposed to run from where it comes out of the pan as a hard line? Between, the copper tubing and rubber non fuel rated hose, I figured it had about 6 feet of unneeded fuel line, :shock: And where is the best place for a fuel filter to meet Samba Approval? :P

Also is there a casting mark on the heads somewhere that I can be assured that I indeed have a 1641cc? So when I send the Kads to Kaddie, that they can be rejetted correctly.

Thanks Samba Guys you are a huge benefit to the VWAC community! 8)

Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:36 pm

Depending on your flexibility or willingness to jack up the car. Put the fuel filter either under the fuel tank in the front (more difficult to access). Or alongside the tranny in the transition hose from the body hard line to the hard line to the engine compartment (easier to access).

Thu Mar 21, 2013 1:57 pm

1965VWBUGGER wrote: And where is the best place for a fuel filter to meet Samba Approval?

There are two good places to put it:
1.)Under the gas tank right before it goes into the metal line in the tunnel,

2.) Next to the trans where the gas line runs next to it.

1965VWBUGGER wrote: Also is there a casting mark on the heads somewhere that I can be assured that I indeed have a 1641cc? So when I send the Kads to Kaddie, that they can be rejetted correctly.

There aren't any casting marks on the heads that will tell you the displacement of the engine. To see if it is a 1641cc, you would need to remove the head, and measure the bore of the cylinder and the stroke of the piston as it moves from TDC to BDC

Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:46 pm

Quote: There are two good places to put it:
1.)Under the gas tank right before it goes into the metal line in the tunnel,

2.) Next to the trans where the gas line runs next to it.

Thank you Jon65 and Dirtylittle70Bugger I will be using one of those places.

Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:56 pm

Today found some interesting stuff, got the Kads off and the risers after 2 days of soaking with PB Blaster.

Found some funny stuff... :roll:

Motorola made in the USA Alternator.. :shock:

No flexible tubing between doghouse and body (throttle cable is the shiny wire)

This tin work does not seem normal for some reason, but its my first ACVW, but looking at pics I don't see this on other builds

or this

Fuel line is that braided hose popping out of the tin

Intakes look okay

Hopefully in the next week or so the motor will be coming out.

Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:10 pm

Engine tins look fine to me. Love the repair work on the carb. I wouldn't worry unless its not adjusting properly.

Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:33 pm

Boom wrote: Love the repair work on the carb. I wouldn't worry unless its not adjusting properly.

Yeah it wont even go full throttle without some serious effort, the throttle plates are seriously worn, I am thinking of sending them to the Kaddieshack for a complete overhaul.

Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:54 am

Motor will be coming out in 3 weeks, amazing how many people are willing to help when there is free beer and food..LOL

When it is out I am considering getting some bed liner to do the bay or tow it down to my local shop and have the bay bed lined, quoted 50 bucks, as long as it were ready to spray.

I am not restoring the bug, just making a nice clean functional runner, or should I wait till I pull the body next year and paint it body color like factory?

I have also seen a clean setup in some of your guy's build thread where there was an insulating board material back there.

Thoughts, Ideas? :?:

Thanks

Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:09 am

That's a very nice solid looking car! Original color was L360 Sea Blue (my favorite!). Will you be going back to that? As far as your question originally there was a 3 piece tarboard insulator in the engine bay. One panel on each side and one on the firewall.

Wed Mar 27, 2013 1:57 pm

Thanks, very surprising for being a Northwest car its entire life that there is very little rust.

Right now I am tooling around with a 2 tone, black with the sea blue below the trim line and not white, or back to the original Sea Blue totally.

Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:19 am

Finally got the shop cleared out enough to drag the bug off the porch and into the shop, if it ever decides to stop pouring rain, first up is gutting the interior now that I know all the carpet is shot and moldy. And puling the engine out. Been hashing it out with my old man about the route we want to take on this, being it has a hopped up motor in it, and will be more so when I am done with it. :) That "custom" will be the way to go.

2" Dropped Spindles with a Narrowed Beam to allow for Disk Brakes
2" Dropped Rear swing arms and one click on the bars
Dechroming and eliminating the trim and filling holes (leave the side trim)
California style window seals
Clean and simple interior
Oxford Green Body Color? still being discussed LOL
Rebuilding the engine now that I know its got internal issues...

Barring any unfound rust this should keep me busy for a few months or in my case years.

Will be posting more pics when I drag it off the porch as I dig into this monster!

Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:39 pm

Getting Ideas going in my head

Passenger Side

My first oh darn moment

No Rust under Battery and no patch panel, somebody was smart and sprayed Tar in there

Stripped the tins tonight to aid in getting a stuck bolt out.

More Interior

Lots of Bondo found tonight gluing the fenders on on the lower parts, ugh was hoping to use the OG Steel fenders but its not looking good..