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Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:27 pm

Hi I have a 1979 Karmann Convertible super beetle.
Someone stole my front window regulators...... :shock:

Can any one help with where I might find some , I believe they are double rollers?

Best wishes

Chris

Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:36 pm

classifieds is a good place to look
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search

.

Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:55 pm

Call Chuck at Chuck's convertibles.

I'd bet he has a pair!

Dave

Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:51 pm

Great write up/tutorial.

Everett or Glenn - any chance of making this a sticky? Lots of us with verts have struggled with this in the past with little help from the Bentley.

Tue Jul 15, 2014 3:14 pm

Hi Chaps,

Thanks for the suggestions tried Chuck as ever he hit me with a massive price. In this case $475 for two.
I managed to get a pair here in the UK for £150.

So Dave great set of photos of removing a door regulator , do you have any on refitting one?

I am missing the main door seal on the latch edge of the door that is the big rubber that goes top to bottom on the visible edge as you open the door.
See photos.

Thanks
Chris

Fri Oct 03, 2014 3:02 am

Great post Dave,
djkeev wrote: *Remove the single screw found below the rubber vent window seal, there is a hole in the seal allowing access without removing the seal, open the Vent window, you will find the hole.
(Screwdriver is in the hole to loosen the screw)......

for anyone else who may reference this post this stumped me for a while but it turns out there is a nut behind this screw mentioned above (well there is in my 71 cabrio anyway), you can loosen it off but window will not come out until unscrewed from nut, impossible to see it until its out.

hope that helps someone.
pg

Fri Oct 03, 2014 4:23 am

pgtips wrote: Great post Dave,
djkeev wrote: *Remove the single screw found below the rubber vent window seal, there is a hole in the seal allowing access without removing the seal, open the Vent window, you will find the hole.
(Screwdriver is in the hole to loosen the screw)......

for anyone else who may reference this post this stumped me for a while but it turns out there is a nut behind this screw mentioned above (well there is in my 71 cabrio anyway), you can loosen it off but window will not come out until unscrewed from nut, impossible to see it until its out.

hope that helps someone.
pg

My guess is that a heavy handed PO over torqued that screw and made the nut a necessity.

Thu Oct 16, 2014 1:48 pm

pgtips wrote: Great post Dave,
djkeev wrote: *Remove the single screw found below the rubber vent window seal, there is a hole in the seal allowing access without removing the seal, open the Vent window, you will find the hole.
(Screwdriver is in the hole to loosen the screw)......

for anyone else who may reference this post this stumped me for a while but it turns out there is a nut behind this screw mentioned above (well there is in my 71 cabrio anyway), you can loosen it off but window will not come out until unscrewed from nut, impossible to see it until its out.

hope that helps someone.
pg

Thanks for this thread. I just took apart one of my doors. That darn screw under the vent window rubber was/is/will be a big problem. It seems to be a capture nut or something welded under there and guess what? It broke loose. The screw was welded with rust in place. there is ZERO access to that nut while its in situ. I had to drill the top of the screw off and probably have to put a nutsert or something into the hole where it goes.

Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:22 am

djkeev wrote: A parts diagram of the system......

#18 Convertible Door Window Frame (Right Shown)
#19 Screw Countersink Head & Self Tapping
#20 Stop
#21 Vent Wing Frame
#22 Plug
#23 Hex Head Screw (M6x15)
#24 Spring Washer
#25 Washer
#26 Front Window Guide Felt Channel
#27 Inner Scraper
#28 Window Channel, Door & Outer Window Frame to Glass
#29 Scrappers Inner Door or Quarter Window
#30 Screw Countersink Head & Self Tapping
#31 Outer Scraper
#32 End Piece for Trim Molding
#33 Washer
#34 Screw Countersink Head & Self Tapping
#35 Plug
#36 Hex Head Screw (M6x10)
#37 Lock Ring
#38 Rear Channel
#39 Hex Nut [M8]
#40 Lock Washer
#41 Washer
#42 Pin [/quote]

Trying to put my window back together and am having a challenging time to say the least. I think I've figured out most of the madness but when I go to tighten screw (36) on the rear channel (38) everything binds up. As long as this screw is loose, the window rolls up and down easily.

What am I missing?

Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:30 pm

flyboat wrote: whoohoo, I got it fixed. Aparently there was enough wear in the system that there was just too much room for movement.

I removed the bolt in the rear jamb of the door that hold the top of the rear track. I pushed in on the track while operating the window and the window worked good. So I added a thick washer between the track mount and the door metal where the small bolt goes. In other words I shimmed the track toward the front of the car and now the window works good.

I found this post from flyboat from a couple years ago and was referenced in this post earlier. I think this is exactly what I need to do. Now trying to fit my hand in there to place the spacer washer will be a chore.

Mon Mar 23, 2015 5:59 pm

Well I figuered out my own question

Seems the bolt the holds the upper rear track was too long. I replaced with a shorter bolt and it works fine now. I guess the longer bolt put a bind on the track when I tightened it.

Go figure....

Gotta love PO's "modifications"

Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:15 pm

I normally work on Mk1 Cabriolets, but decided to help a friend with his 1 owner (his wifes first car) 78 Super Beetle Vert. For the Scrapers and the top.

I found that I had to lower the Glass to replace the inner and outer scraper, not dissasemble the whole shooting match. I found split rivets to replace the ones I drilled out of the Chromed trim.

I read all I could on the 78 Super Beetle windows scraper installs, and figured there had to be an easier way.

Rear Windows Scraper removal and install.

Remove the single screw from the edge moulding Spray some WD-40, or Soapy water in the frame grove or between the rubber and the frame inside and out.
Remove the seal.

Remove the 2 caps off the door frame to expose the 2 10mm bolts.

I put everything in a coffee can per side.

Lower the window as far as you can.

Remove the 3 screws that hold the outer chrome and scraper to the quarter panel. #1 Phillips

Remove the outer scraper.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the frame to the quarter panel.

Remove the corner cover 2 Phillips #1.

Lower the window below the frame edge by pulling back and down.
Your window is now beneath the door and removal of the inner scraper and replacement is a whole lot easier minimum adjustments are required.

Pull the inner scraper off.

Measure your old scraper to the new and cut it about 1/4 inch longer.

See how the ends of the scraper is at the inner edge

I cut the front lower edge off so it wouldn’t be stretching like that Just the bottom edge about the same as what is stretched.

I positioned the bottom edge at the back, and hooked it at the bottom, and worked my way to the front
making sure the bottom edge was secure and flat. At the Same time I pulled the top so it was all laying flat on the inside edge of the car.

Using your fingers to keep the lower edge in place. While pulling the top over the edge.

I used mini spring clips to hold it in place as I went.

Once scooted back to the stop I made sure it was tight to the end.

Front lower edge nibbled.

Starting at the back about 2 inches from the edge I Raised the inside flap to expose the “T” channel and using a Number 0 straight slotted Screw driver I forced it in the channel. I worked it about 2 inches to the front Stopped and placed a Spring Clamp to hold it.

Front door has a better picture of it.

I then worked towards the rear of the car and clamped it.

I continued in the fashion of pulling up and stuffing until I got to the leading edge.
Clamping as I went, I had a total of 6 clamps

Finessing the front was I had to replace that little rubber piece and trim. I found that Mini-Diagonal cutters worked well.

After I was finished I used a small rubber hammer to seat it fully with light taps.

Finishing
I used some Black Ultra RTV in a Syringe, and shot a small bead at both ends, and ran it the whole length. I tapped it more, and wiped up the ooze.

Followed by clamping it for 6 hours for the RTV to set.

Total time spent working, 1 hour, setting was 6 more, but that may have been over kill, I just didn’t want that bugger to come up or move when rolling up the window.

While that was curing I attacked the outer Scraper.

Drill out the rivets.

Remove the stiffener from the scraper (don’t bend it.

Pull the Old scraper out of the chrome.

I had to untuck one end that was crimped.

Spray the chrome with soapy water, then insert the scraper and it will pop in as you move your hand down the chrome.

Once the new scraper is in, cut it the same profile as the old then test fit it to the car and trim as needed.

[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/
beetlewindowscrapers/DSCI0063_zpsnmrjncno.jpg[/IMG]

Now with the same drill, on the chrome side Drill all the holes through the scraper from the chrome side in.

At my Fav-O-rite True-Value (Howards Brothers Duluth Ga.) I found steel or aluminum split rivets.
I bought about 35 of them.

I inserted the rivets in to the Chrome (head side), and through the scraper.
Some I had to squeeze together slightly.

I flipped it over and placed the stiffener on to the rivets.

I left the scraper long on both sides.

Using a screw driver I bent the rivets out a bit.

Then using a flat Bar Stock, and a Bar under it.
I flattened the rivets tight

Using small diagonal cutters I made the profile match the piece I removed.

After the 6 hour wait, I raised the window frame and inserted the 2 bolts to hold it in place.
I rolled the window up, and inserted the outer scraper and trimmed it as needed.

Replaced the end caps and 3 screws to hold the outer scraper in place.

For the Front door it is the Same Physical Process, but you don’t have to remove every thing.

Remove the 3 #1 Phillips screws that hold the outer scraper to the door frame
Remove the inner scraper.

Remove the Crank handle by flipping the cover off the center and removing one Phillips screw.
Remove the Arm Pull 2 Phillips screws.
Remove the Speaker cover and speaker if equipped.

Remove the door panel, and lift the Inner moisture barrier to access the Regulator bolts 3 10mm.
The rear channel screw, and rear upper channel bolt on the edge of the door.

Remove the Side mirror.
Now remove the outer scraper.

Remove the 3 regulator bolts, the lower Rear Channel nut (13 mm) and upper rear window channel bolt.

With a little work you can lower the Glass to the rear and down to the bottom of the door, use a cushion to keep it off the bottom. But you don’t have to remove the vent wing or fuss with the other adjustments.

Once you have replaced the Scrapers the same as the rears, you will have to lift the window back in to place (yeah you have to play with it, but you don’t have to remove everything and Break all the adjustments….. Took about 2 hours start to finish.

Fri Oct 23, 2015 7:02 am

Hopefully anyone bookmarking this thread might be able to help.

There are rubber wedges at the end of the scrapers. As best I can make out 1 at each end of the rear 1/4 scraper and one at the door handle end of the front door.

My Q,

1. is there a wedge at the other end of the convertible front door or does it just finish with the vent window chrome.
And

2. is there (or can someone) tell me if the scraper needs to be cut around the vent window frame where it disappears into the door..

Thanks, this has been an invaluable post.

PG

Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:38 am

I'm having trouble with the chrome trim piece across the top of my windows--it pulls in the scrapers as it lowers last 1/2" into the door. Result is that the scraper edge that usually points straight up is pulled down 180 degrees and pointing straight at the ground. Are these scrapers hopelessly soft and or deformed, so need to be replaced?
[/img]

Fri Nov 13, 2015 11:24 am

SteveK wrote: I'm having trouble with the chrome trim piece across the top of my windows--it pulls in the scrapers as it lowers last 1/2" into the door. Result is that the scraper edge that usually points straight up is pulled down 180 degrees and pointing straight at the ground. Are these scrapers hopelessly soft and or deformed, so need to be replaced?

That looks normal to me. When completely lowered the window goes below the rubber and the rubber pops back out over the trim. If that's as low as you go, you will need to adjust the window so it lowers further. There's a adj on the regulator for setting how high the window rolls up or down. Putting some talc on the rubber will also help it slide

Personally I never lower the window all the way to save wear and tear on the scraper so if my arm is resting on the door it's sitting on the top of the window trim not the scraper

Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:02 pm

Thanks Bugged, that makes sense. I'll try to get the window to roll further down so the scrapers pop back out over the trim piece.

You mention a 'down' stop adjustment on the regulator. I can only find an 'up' stop, it's a stop-bolt near the crank mechanism. To adjust the window so it stops further down, do a person need to loosen the entire frame and scoot the whole thing down?

Fri Nov 13, 2015 3:42 pm

Caution : windows can be installed the wrong side.

They are interchangeable to fit BUT don't work.

this is a way to check - your window channel at the bottom of the window must be facing this way, It'll save you a tonne of grief .. ask me how I know..

What I can say from this (thankfully) is that even if you've made this mistake you don't have to remove the whole jigsaw again, just loosen the vent window and the side channels. Unbolt the winder mech and let it sit at the base of the door. The window will lift out and proper one drop in.

Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:15 pm

SteveK wrote: Thanks Bugged, that makes sense. I'll try to get the window to roll further down so the scrapers pop back out over the trim piece.

You mention a 'down' stop adjustment on the regulator. I can only find an 'up' stop, it's a stop-bolt near the crank mechanism. To adjust the window so it stops further down, do a person need to loosen the entire frame and scoot the whole thing down?

It's been awhile since I played with this and now that I think about more there's no stop on the regulator for the down position. Must be something going on that's keeping it from retracting fully. So either the regulator isn't fully retracting or the windows not completely seated. Should be easy to see with the door panel off

Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:38 pm

I've found this one of the most informative threads on Verts and specifically related to windows.
It seems to address many of the practical issues when sorting out our Vert windows.

Might this be made a sticky please?

Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:32 pm

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

Car is at painter now, but looking forward to reassembly of the windows but this thread will help a lot.

Question: source for #42 in this pic? Or a part number? I saw them on Chucks a few weeks ago but his site is down the last few days.

Thanks again!

Edit: found # = 141837563 now to find source