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  View original topic: Experiences with a bad fuel pump and timing an 009 Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
williamM Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:28 am

Best TDC answer yet!!!

vamram Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:53 am

Haven't swapped the pulley yet. One of the posts to screw down the Pertronix ignitor plate busted clean off at the welds. :x Wonderful. As if it had never been welded at the factory.

So....i'm back to the uh-oh-9 from my parts box, and decided to park the bug and fix the front-end shimmy for now. I'm waiting for the new ball joints to arrive to finish the job before tackling the pulley.

vamram Sun Nov 10, 2013 7:17 am

Actually ended up putting it in my '64. Looks good - but makes a hell of a racket rubbing against the pulley tin at the bottom. I'm going to try hammering it out today.

As for the '72 Super - I have a pertronix flame thrower in there, timed all good, w/a german solex 34pict-3.

BTW Desertbusman - thanks for Amazon link, I bought the TDC tool.

vamram Sun May 18, 2014 6:14 am

Just to close off the post in case others hit it, I picked up pulley shims from CB performance. I only needed 1 to eliminate rubbing against the pulley tin.

:bug_red:

Desertbusman Sun May 18, 2014 3:32 pm

Glad you got good results. How did the TDC tool and all that work out?

So you shimmed the pulley further out on the crankshaft? And not just in original tight contact against the slinger and gears inside.

Actually everytime I have put the aftermarket aluminum pulleys on they have rubbed against the tin and made that big racket also. But in all cases it was just a matter of moving the tin in closer to the case to solve it. But that entails the good old hammer adjustments and reshaping the tin in the right spots.


Do you remember how thick the shim was? I'm having a small alignment problem now due to another new engine mod.

vamram Sun May 18, 2014 4:39 pm

Shoot, I don't remember the thickness of the shim, but I only used one. I figured that was a better solution than beating the crap out of the tin.

To be honest - I have the TDC help bolt but didn't use it. I went w/checking that the correct valves rocked or were closed when the pulley was at what I believed to be TDC for the #1. Seemed to work well, the car ran like a charm since then once I timed it and all.

BTW --- I sold the '64 Bug (the one w/the aftermarket pulley) yesterday so I'm down to "just" my '72 Super for now! Sad to see it go, but I needed to clear space and was spending too much $$$ keeping 2 cars up and running and improving them, was getting to be too much for us w/1 kid in college, saving for a 2nd and life expenses....course, the wife had something that decision as well... :roll:

Desertbusman Sun May 18, 2014 5:39 pm

vamram wrote: To be honest - I have the TDC help bolt but didn't use it. I went w/checking that the correct valves rocked or were closed when the pulley was at what I believed to be TDC for the #1.

What you describe would have gotten you in the general TDC ball park. But it wouldn't get to an actual accurate TDC. You still need to use the TDC tool, OR have a degree pulley, Or know exactly what the notch or notches are on a stock pulley. The last one, the notches, is where you can't guess. Just in the last couple days someone was telling what a notch was in a picture and was totally and out to lunch and wrong.

But you might have ended up with it good, so that's good. With a heavy bus the timing is much more critical than with a bug.



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