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Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:22 pm

Finishing up my stroker installation in my 67SC and boy did I have a time reaching the starter nut on top, I have a set of DRLAs and getting around them is quite the chore. Any tricks? Remove the battery for some crawl space? A long boat to the destination would be to remove the fuel tank and crawl back in there , reach through the cheeze :shock: grader metal partition and put on the blasted nut

Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:36 pm

Take the right hand carb off, or find someone with short forearms who is double jointed.

Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:09 pm

big bus mike wrote: Take the right hand carb off, or find someone with short forearms who is double jointed.

have you met my brother? :) he has always been able to reach, i hurt myself to get there.

Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:46 pm

I've got that set up. I find that removing the air cleaner and reaching between the top of the carb and the shroud works. Ratcheting open-end wrench will save you some hassle.

Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:31 pm

The ratchet wrench was the greatest tool ever invented for pulling VW motors. Don't forgetto get a lacky to lay under the bus and hold the bolt into the starter :wink:

brad

Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:31 pm

Ratcheting box end wrench is tits for this job.

Both my buses have dual Dell's.
What has worked for me is to stick my head right in the engine compartment, I mean literally such that my chin is resting on the oil filler and the alternator is at my left ear.
I can then reach around the back with my right hand so that my elbow bends right around the 1&2 manifold right at engine level.
I can then reach the nut with my right hand and get the wrench on it.
Don't need to remove anything to access it.

Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:51 pm

Great replies from all. Some contortions are indeed necessary for this proceedure.

Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:29 pm

since my bus already had a big ass hole cut out of the luggage area, I installed a type 3 engine lid. Lift the lid and you can stare at the nut all day long.

Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:09 am

I've got a little more input on that sucker...
When the engine is out, clean the bolt and nut really well. Mate them together and make sure they're harmonious, that way you can whip the nut on with your fingertips. I've also gooped up the bolt where it goes through the tranny with RTV so that there's some resistance with good results.

Get in there and commit! Hug the engine like you love it...full on face in the pulley! Give her a reach-around, and snap it on with your index finger and thumb, tighten it with a ratchet wrench, and be done!

Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:58 am

i will also add that in addition to cleaning the threads so the nut spins on with ease, don't coat the bolt where it goes through the case with grease or oil, leave it dry. it makes it very difficult to spin the nut on w/o holding the backside

the right side bolt is the easy one; getting the left side nut on and tightened on a case w/o the fixed nut and a doghouse fan shroud is alot more difficult

Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:42 am

I have always put the bolt through, then lowered the jack a bit to put pressure on it

Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:07 am

2028cc with dual 42DCNFs on Berg Manifolds. I've always bolted up the motor before installing the carbs and removed the carbs before unbolting the motor. My motor is just a little too wide to drop with the carbs attached.

I push the #1 bolt through and then thread the nut on by hand while pushing down slightly to keep it from spinning.