r39o |
Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:46 am |
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Per request here is a translation from German for the following threads:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=553863
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392080
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=419907
DON"T FORGET TO GREASE!
Now is a good time to replace the body mounted handle seal.
Remove the handle by taking door panel off and lock screw out.
DON'T LOSE ANY PARTS!
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One more islander... |
Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:35 pm |
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Duly bookmarked. Thanks! |
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r39o |
Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:06 pm |
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One more islander... wrote: Duly bookmarked. Thanks!
No need. It is in the FAQ.
The various lock threads all reference each other too now.
(NOTE: The rear hatch lock is next......) |
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70coupyel |
Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:51 pm |
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r39o wrote: (NOTE: The rear hatch lock is next......)
Small and large button?? :D :wink: |
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westofcenter |
Mon May 13, 2013 4:32 pm |
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So I am attempting to get my hatch key to match my other keys and am having trouble removing the tumbler. I cannot insert my key and I am assuming it is unlocked since I can open the door. I cannot see any pin or release screw to gain access to the tumbler? Anybody have the trick?
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70coupyel |
Mon May 13, 2013 5:48 pm |
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westofcenter wrote: So I am attempting to get my hatch key to match my other keys and am having trouble removing the tumbler. I cannot insert my key and I am assuming it is unlocked since I can open the door. I cannot see any pin or release screw to gain access to the tumbler? Anybody have the trick?
My small button rear hatch lock was hosed in the unlocked position. I found out that in order to get the tumbler out it needs to be in the locked position. I still have it like this.
I went to a j/y and I watched a guy hack one up,with a Dremel, because he did not know what he was doing.
I went to my parts guy and he found a brand new one. It had ten years of dust on it and to the tune of $180.00. :shock: I was just so happy I could lock my van up again. My surfboards were safe again.
I do not think that this part is even available.
Maybe send it off to one of the VW locksmiths here on Samba? |
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westofcenter |
Mon May 13, 2013 6:17 pm |
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70coupyel wrote: westofcenter wrote: So I am attempting to get my hatch key to match my other keys and am having trouble removing the tumbler. I cannot insert my key and I am assuming it is unlocked since I can open the door. I cannot see any pin or release screw to gain access to the tumbler? Anybody have the trick?
My small button rear hatch lock was hosed in the unlocked position. I found out that in order to get the tumbler out it needs to be in the locked position. I still have it like this.
I went to a j/y and I watched a guy hack one up,with a Dremel, because he did not know what he was doing.
I went to my parts guy and he found a brand new one. It had ten years of dust on it and to the tune of $180.00. :shock: I was just so happy I could lock my van up again. My surfboards were safe again.
I do not think that this part is even available.
Maybe send it off to one of the VW locksmiths here on Samba?
So, were you able to get your locks matched up? Doors, ignition, and hatch all the same key? |
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odamark |
Mon May 27, 2013 4:18 pm |
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The spring was a little tricky but much easier (once I figured it out) than the door spring. Locks updated, cleaned and reinstalled! Thanks, I appreciate the help. |
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yiucycle |
Fri Feb 21, 2014 6:34 pm |
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Thanks again for the post, i was able to rekey my sliding door and rear hitch door. Now i can lock the hatch instead of using a wood block to lock it.
As for the hitch lock, if it is lock in the "open" position, which prevent it from accessing the pin(which holds the lock core and that triangle push widge thing). You can try dremel/drill access holes 90 degree from the original access hole. you will need two, one on each side to form a cross. then push the pin out from the newly drill access hole. Afterward, you can pull the widge out and push the lock core out the other side.
FYI: i never done this method since the PO didn't place the pin back so i was able to pull the wedge out and push the lock core out. But this method will save you the trouble of sourcing any other hitch lock and save $180. :D
[/quote] |
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rmcd |
Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:12 am |
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I can't find any explanation how to remove the last part of the slider handle lock. I've removed the grub screw and lock cylinder in preparation for powder coating. How do you remove the last piece?
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davideric9 |
Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:34 am |
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If the lock cylinder is out, you've done it all. The remaining silver part at the bottom with the lock code stamped on it does not come out (afaik). Make sure they tape off everything that is not visible from the outside of the van so the size of the holes does not change (too much powder can be too thick to reinstall moving parts). |
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syncrodoka |
Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:53 am |
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Paint stripper on a q-tip for more pecise placement will remove any powdercoat that gets into holes that the powdercoater inevitably will not mask off. As long as you have the cylinder, the spring and the locking bar out you are good to go. |
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rmcd |
Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:16 pm |
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Thanks. Now on to the plastic. I'll try hot water and a small screw driver. |
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syncrodoka |
Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:58 pm |
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Removing the black plastic finger cover is the hardest part of the process, the cover isn't simply snapped into place. There are a pair of metal posts that protrude from the handle under the cover that slide onto a pair of metal sleeved keepers in the cover. |
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VeeDubDaySpa |
Wed May 06, 2015 8:12 pm |
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Syncrodoka, so how do you remove the plastic part without ruining it?? |
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syncrodoka |
Wed May 06, 2015 8:55 pm |
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I have the older version of this snap-on radiator pick that I slip in at the end of the handle and gently pry the plastic grip off with.
There are 2 metal tabs that are cast into the back of the handle on the flat part that snap into a pair of tabs on the the plastic grip. |
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windnsea |
Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:32 am |
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Could someone clarify for me the issue of the 'grub screw and cover'? The original posting suggests drilling out the grub screw, and then after resetting the lock tumblers reinserting it. My question is - are you just drilling out a cover and then unscrewing the screw, or if drilling out both, what will be used then as a grub screw? Part number or ?? - do you have to rethread the screw hole for a larger set screw, and if so, what size was used.
Thanks in advance.
Windnsea
I'm tired of hauling around two keys!! |
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syncrodoka |
Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:47 am |
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Don't drill out anything. There is some threadlock on the grub screw that needs to be picked out before it is backed out. |
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0to60in6min |
Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:50 am |
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you don't need to drill out the grub screw. It's a very small screw with a small plastic cover on it. Pull the plastic cover out and use a s mall screwdriver to take the screw out. Proceed in reverse upon reassembling.
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Pascal |
Mon Oct 16, 2023 5:23 am |
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Has anyone found a replacement seal that fits on the sliding door lock cylinder that is in this picture?
Is it the same seal that fits the front door cylinders that is 111837227B and NLA? I can’t find the part number on ETKA for the slider door cylinder seal. Thanks |
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