TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: What's this part that is leaking? (Transmission nosecone) Page: 1, 2  Next
ccb_dan Sat May 04, 2013 5:49 am

So I have a small drop on my garage floor (quarter size) and I get under the bus to investigate. It appears to be coming from this thing...whatever it is. Can someone give me and ID and how to fix the leak?

The bus runs great and I drive it all the time so if this is something major should I stop driving it until I get it fixed?

Thanks!


LAGrunthaner Sat May 04, 2013 6:01 am

"Where" are we looking at this?

ccb_dan wrote: So I have a small drop on my garage floor (quarter size) and I get under the bus to investigate. It appears to be coming from this thing...whatever it is. Can someone give me and ID and how to fix the leak?

The bus runs great and I drive it all the time so if this is something major should I stop driving ti until I get it fixed?

Thanks!


ccb_dan Sat May 04, 2013 6:04 am

Sorry, some context would be helpful right? :)

This is just in front of the transmission, like in the middle between the rear jack points, near the hoop thingy (oh God I sound like a complete idiot). Make sense? I wish I could get a wider picture to show location but that was the best I could get without putting it on a lift!

joe56vw Sat May 04, 2013 6:12 am

In that pic i see the shift coupler and center of the torsion housing
Niether would be leaking oil most likley your nosecone is and it is running down and acrossthese parts

Riff Raff Sat May 04, 2013 6:19 am

What joe said^^

If you suspect that that area is where the oil leak is originating, the chance are good that gear oil is starting to seep out of the nosecone of the transmission.
Most transmissions seep a little bit from this area, but if you are getting a pool the size of a quarter, that is a significant amount from that spot.
The seal that keeps oil in the trans is a brass bushing between the nosecone and hockey stick. (if you are unfamiliar with these terms, check out the Dictionary ln the FAQ's).
As it wears, it will gradually start to let small amount of oil through, although there is little oil in the nosecone section to begin with.
You may want to clean up the nosecone and hockey stick area of the trans to identify exactly where the leak is originating.
Probably a good time to check the level (consult your Bentley) or change the gear oil if you can't remember last time you did it.

As far as serious, no - as long as you do not let your gear oil get low.
Further, the length of time it takes to accumulate a quarter sized spot is essential information.

ccb_dan Sat May 04, 2013 8:00 am

Awesome! Thank you all for your help!

Clara Sat May 04, 2013 8:08 am

Riff Raff wrote: What joe said^^

Most transmissions seep a little bit from this area

x2

FWIW, you do need to pull the engine and tranny to re-bush the nosecone.
If it were just a small drip and there was nothing wrong with the engine/ tranny, I would put it off until there was another reason for engine or tranny pull.

If it stops leaking on its own, you are out of oil.
Do check gear oil level and top up if needed.

FWIW, the safety wire of the coupler grub screws is backward. should be so as to pull it tighter.
like this:

ccb_dan Sat May 04, 2013 9:08 am

Thanks for the pic and info Clara!

customcityjim Sat May 04, 2013 10:37 am

That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.

mickey86004 Sat May 04, 2013 11:01 am

customcityjim wrote: That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.

:roll: Next time I will be sure to put mine on in the direction of the way the bolt loosens. :lol: That way if it does come loose it can only go a half turn.

Eric&Barb Sun May 05, 2013 6:42 pm

customcityjim wrote: That safety wire makes no difference as to how it is turned. As long as the wire is not broken.

Sorry but it does. Loosening only a quarter of a turn will allow the bolt to wallow out the hole in the shift rod and make for sloppy shifter. BTDT, had to weld up the dimple tapered hole, hand grind a drill bit to remake the hole with proper angle in our 1963 SC!

As for the image Clara posted. The right side of image safety wire is great the left side is iffy.

customcityjim Sun May 05, 2013 8:37 pm

You people have totally lost it.

Eric&Barb Sun May 05, 2013 9:07 pm

customcityjim wrote: You people have totally lost it.

Yes, and we all enjoy it that way! :wink:

hitest Sun May 05, 2013 9:20 pm

Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?

Eric&Barb Sun May 05, 2013 9:26 pm

hitest wrote: Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?

Yes, there has to be a gap between the TIP of the grub screw, but not between the angled sides of the tip of the grub screw. If the tip bottomed out first it would do same damage as letting the grub screw ride loose....

64+65doubledoor Mon May 06, 2013 5:11 am

Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides

zozo Mon May 06, 2013 5:26 am

64+65doubledoor wrote: Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides

If it gets to that point, you need medication. Lol

Clara Mon May 06, 2013 6:17 am

zozo wrote: 64+65doubledoor wrote: Both holes should be facing the front of bus and all slotted screws on bus aligned front to back ,nuts and bolts square and parallel with frame sides

If it gets to that point, you need medication. Lol

I know someone who bought a restored split beetle that had the screws aligned.
he made a list pages long of what was wrong with it.
It was also undrivable, and the motor was non running. It was pretty, though. If you care about the screw alignment, which I don't.

What I wrote about safety wire was for functions sake, not looks.
These nice greasy grub screws can back out on you, which gives sloppy shifting, and if that is left long enough, can lead to popping out of gear.

BarryL Mon May 06, 2013 9:30 am

hitest wrote: Doesn't the service bulletin #2-2334A call for a running gap between the end of that grub screw and the pit of the dimple to be between 30-40/1000s?

Is that gap not perfectly satisfied by a loosely wired grub screw that has backed its way out by approx. 31-39 degrees of counterclockwise play?

Yes, as that is necessary to provide the patented VW sound of 15.8 kHz staccato in the cab for 5th level Shakra tranquility. Pilots in the Luftwaffe first noted this effect and reported it to command.

Harley copied VW with their noise patent after VW got their patent.

brettsvw Mon May 06, 2013 12:57 pm

I am glad to hear any information that would help to prevent problems down the road .

I drove a Westy through many states when I was younger for many years and had many part failures due to me or someone else not doing the proper job.

Thanks for the info Clara.



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group