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  View original topic: Looking for tips on polishing my Single Cab
TinCanFab Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:42 am

Hey guys, it's been a 4 year project to get my truck to this point.....

I appreciate all the help so far and I'm ready to finish and reassemble. 4 good coats of single stage urethane (wanted an original look) over a wet coat of urethane sealer, shot 4 days ago. I am armed with a variable speed polisher and a big bottle of Farecla G3 polishing compound. My PDS sheets say to sand with 1500 grit or finer. I am generally happy with my work so far, and this truck will be daily driven.

I am not experienced with a buffer and I'm looking for advice before I tear into it. Also, the VW trucks have a ton of weird shapes to buff around, which is what I think is going to be the biggest challenge. I know I will be using a ton of masking tape on edges and a lot of patience. Any advice on tackling the tight crevices and areas I should avoid all together is greatly appreciated!










Chad M Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:41 pm

That G3 is the same product I used. I used the Ultra for the first pass and then followed with Fine (2000 grit). Use lots of water and some wet 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth out your "rough" spots with. I always use the finest grit possible to get the job done, without spending a ridiculous amount of time on it. You don't have to do the whole truck, just the areas that need attention. I didn't find any special skill was required to get a really nice (probably not show quality) finish. Make sure you work a little compound into the pad and then put a little more on the surface, keeping in mind you need very little of the stuff to work. Try to use the 12 to 3pm portion of the pad and keep it moving. I can tell you're a good common sense kind of guy, so just go with that and you'll be so surprised how easy that G3 is to work with. You are very right about edges, the paint is naturally thinner at those points so best to avoid them. I doubt you need to tape them up though, just keep it in mind. Good luck!!!

Chad M Wed Jun 19, 2013 7:35 pm

Bump!

I didn't mean to kill your thread so soon :oops:

Sorry!

TinCanFab Thu Jun 20, 2013 3:15 pm

Hey Chad :) , no problem. Doin just like you said. My biggest concern is making the finish look uniform in all areas. From what I understand, as soon as you put sand paper to single stage, there is no way to get the initial full gloss back. I'm ok with that, I'll take slightly less gloss over texture any day. I can always glaze and wax it at a later date. I should be more specific, is it possible to retain the same gloss as when the paint first dried?

Chad M Thu Jun 20, 2013 3:29 pm

I know there are plenty of more qualified guys haunting this thread, but to my eye, you will be able to challenge the original finish with polishing. Folks that know me, know that I'm a pretty particular sort and I was very happy with my novice results. I would urge you to use the G3 "Fine" product as the finish as it really did step it up another level. A good waxing should ice that cake!

TinCanFab Thu Jun 20, 2013 5:54 pm

Well let me just say I'm a dummy and bought G4 compound, NOT G3, or G3 fine... I have seen G3 in stores and must've forgotten there were two different bottles. :) Sometimes just stepping back and thinking about stuff is the best way to go. The older G3 bottle looks exactly like my G4 bottle. Sure explains why I was only getting about 60% of the shine back.

Chad M Thu Jun 20, 2013 6:05 pm

Doh! I just read the data sheet on the G4, it sounds like it would tear through new paint pretty quickly. The good thing is, G3 should fix it up. Hang in there RD58!

TinCanFab Thu Jun 20, 2013 6:20 pm

Chad, did you use the Farecla bottle that has two lids with each side having Ultra and Fine? Also, what pads did you use?

I looked and the new G4 bottle says for well cured high solids paints WTF? :shock: My bottle just says liquid compound for high solids paints (which mine is, I mixed my color myself)

Chad M Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:20 pm

Yes, I used that new G3, two in one bottle. Use the softer (yellow) pad with the Ultra and the more dense (white) one with Fine. I didn't find a use for the wool pad. My polisher is the Chicago Pneumatic brand and I'm using their brand of pads, so I'm not sure the colours all translate to other brands. One thing I did find is that the low rpm rotary type polishers work far better than the orbital variety.

TinCanFab Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:07 am

I got the same buffer since someone gave me a HF gift card. I ordered the new G3 combo bottle. I just want to confirm- you used the terry bonnet over the soft yellow pad that comes with the buffer?

Chad M Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:56 am

I didn't use any bonnet, just used the product directly on the foam pad. I just washed out the foam after each session, a little soap and water kept it in nice condition. Also, I didn't use any water as lube during the polishing. I understand that this practice was common place with other products but not necessary.

flemcadiddlehopper Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:09 am

There was a thread (can't find it now, search is not melding with my brain) about two brothers that did a sh#* tonne of work to their two busses and then went on a trip with them, they documented there issues they had on their trip. Anyways, someone else might remember who, but at one point in the paint process the one brother was not quite satisfied with the paint and polished it to the most amazing sheen I have ever seen. There was pics with it in a barn door (not the bus) opening.
So, you will get that shine back in the paint once you polish it.

Your Single is looking amazing, can't wait to see it after the color sand and polish.

Gordo.



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