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narendra.vw Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:38 am

Electrical in Brief.

TDI Cluster Mod. I Planned to do.


TDI Cluster Mod after cutting & inserting the Cluster.(Note, same mounting & screwing points).
Front view ----------------------------------------Back View. Easy access to Cluster Sockets.


TDI Cluster on Dash.-------------------------------Cluster display in night.


.TDI fuel Float sensor fused into TD float.


Now, Cluster has Reserve warning light. Van covers a distance of app 50km once light comes on.

3a..TDI Speed sensor to be mated.-----------------------Ready to be used.

Zeitgeist 13 Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:57 am

Nice work, as always. I kept the fuel sender and VSS from the Jetta I parted, for just these purposes. I miss not having a reserve light. Was it difficult to calibrate?

A general question addressed to no one in particular...

I kept the Jetta instrument cluster, but I'm planning an mTDI build. Does the cluster require and ECU in order to function properly?

narendra.vw Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:29 am

Thanks Zeitgeist 13, needed O2 to move forward.

No calibration is needed for Reserve light. Float sensor chip is pre set..
Tampering with float angle may bring some changes. My advice is against it.
Slight change in fuel left in tank with reserve light on, since donor tank & TD tank shapes are different.

TDI cluster & ECU should be of the same Donor. Any one of it changes, adaptation process has to be done & don’t forget Immobilizer key unit if it has one. Only professional can handle adaptation Mod.

hans j Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:18 am

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: I kept the Jetta instrument cluster, but I'm planning an mTDI build. Does the cluster require and ECU in order to function properly?

You will need to find someway to get a square wave tach signal to the cluster. Normally the ECU takes care of this.

Awesome work narendra! I love the reuse of parts and your innovation!

narendra.vw Tue Apr 01, 2014 3:53 am

Mr,hans j, Thanks for the Observation & Information.

Electrical continued….

50% of the TDI Wires, Engine related Relays, fuses & Sockets were retained.
Mine doesn’t have Cruise control.

Crimping &Heat Sink Sleeve used to join the wires.(No short circuit & Proper Current amps flow).


Engine to ECU to Cluster wires were separately taped. TD wires were not tampered.

1. 5” Monitor, for Rear view, front view & side view.(Details?) 2. TDI Engine fuse box. (Note the projected rods which acts as a Guide & lock for firm fitting).


1. TD fuse & Relay Box. (All are doing their duties). 2. Relays for H/L & Extra lights located behind the H/L.


Wires segregated & strapped. Killer switch Bellow the Glove box, (Safety, Just in case).


1.Immobilizer Key mounted inside the Dash, behind the Cluster.(Why am I making it public :wink: )........ 2..ECU bellow Rear middle seat, the nearest point to the engine. This avoids tampering of wires. Speed calibrator & Speed sensor can be seen (Arrow shown).


To be continued……

narendra.vw Tue Apr 08, 2014 5:09 am

Finial Electrical details.

Note all the Cluster switches are from TD (H/L, Fog lamp, Defogger, Hazard).
TD Dimmer switch for Cluster, works.

-Since hot Air circulation was pre fixed, Switch controls were simplified.


Dash viewed from Driver side.. EPS Control knob is seen on the bottom Steering Colum cover.
Toggle switeh Working , explained before.


My Electrician work experience made my Van’s Electrical system work trouble free. Many hours spent to achieve it. No fused fuse till now, .
The last Info, Electrical Fuel pump was not used in the Fuel system. Fuel flows naturally as it used to be in TD fuel system.

Along with Electrical Details, TDI conversion Details completes.

Me & My freaky Ideas.......

Cup holder, Dash left dummy Vent.

-19G ms sheet box fabricated to slide into the Vent frame………...A part of sheet was removed to reduce the weight. Cup dia, your choice. Made sure to bent the sheet 3 or 4 mm inside the hole, this gives good grip for the Cup.


-Woody for the looks & firm fitting.


-On duty. The pulling knob is your guess.


End of Stage I.

Folks, If you are not bored , I have Electrical Power steering Mod & Rock n Roll bed Mod in the box.
Your opinion will help me to move forward. Thanks.

bluefirefly Tue Apr 08, 2014 5:33 am

narendra.vw wrote: Folks, If you are not bored , I have Electrical Power steering Mod & Rock n Roll bed Mod in the box.
Your opinion will help me to move forward. Thanks.

Nope, not bored at all and I know a lot of us are willing to see more... :lol:

Thanks a lot for you these detailed posts.
I really want to see the Electrical Power Steering mod!

Thanks

narendra.vw Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:40 am

STAGE II

Thanks Mr,bluefirefly, Now my Stage II makes sense.

Electrical Power Steering.

Make NSK Japan. Famous for Bearing.
EPS Manufactured for GM. Corsa C. Late 2000 M car .
Cost of EPS:-- 290 GBP with shipping.
Note:- Unit provided is not a speed sensitive. A control Knob is provided to vary the assistance.
Most Rally & race cars use this setup. (Now you are focused). :wink:

Please note this Mod had only one single go. Any cutting, I made sure it was 100% necessary.


1.Contents when unboxed:- Steering Colum, Motor, Bottom shaft, Top shaft, Mounting bracket, Control box, Mini ECU, Speed control knob & Fuses.


2. Motor & bracket fitted to the Colum.(Later bracket was customized to required setting)……....Provided Top shaft is of no use.


3.Steering Colum removed from the steering mount. OE bottom shaft yet to be removed. ( Sorry for blurriness.)


4.Parts dismantled from the OE Colum.( Note:- Arrow shows where Colum will be cut & the top part fused into EPS unit)……….Ready for dissection. Right detail is for EPS top &Left detail is for EPS bottom shaft.


Continued……

narendra.vw Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:54 am

EPS Mod Continued…..

Top of the cut OE Colum fitted to check the alignment.


The Bracket provided for EPS unit’s bottom fitting, had to be modified to achieve correct Colum alignment.

1.Spot weld to make sure proper fitment.(No stress on bracket or bolts)……...2. After seam weld, rough edges grind & a coat of paint Bottom bracket is ready.
(Note:--left side slot is open. The EPS unit is heavy to hold in position & bolt it by a single person. Solution, first a bolt is screwed few threads on to the van’s steering cross member then the Bracketed EPS unit is slid into the bolt. Once one point holds, rest three bolts can be easily bolted. This concept can be used in different situations).


The bracket fitted back to the EPS unit.


1.Top OE shaft is press fitted into EPS shaft. Once length is determined, shaft will be co2 welded. …..2..Provided Bottom shaft is cut to required length. (App 40 mm).


To be continued…..

bluefirefly Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:26 am

Thanks for all those details, I like it.
I still need to find another steering assy as it is a big mod and it might take some time.

Not sure if I'll go with GM parts on that, a lot of concern and problem with these.....

Keep up the good work :wink: and thanks for posting!

narendra.vw Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:00 am

bluefirefly wrote:
I still need to find another steering assy as it is a big mod and it might take some time.

Not sure if I'll go with GM parts on that, a lot of concern and problem with these.....


It looks like a major Job, It’s not. One lathe Job & good strong welding will do the job. It took me 5 days to finish it with a helper.
Just follow the details of mine, things will alright. I have already done 2000 km after fitting it.
If any thing goes wrong It turns into manual. That’s it. Remember it’s a Japanese make (Reliable).
I do have UK eBay link if you need.
Try to find it in your own Backyard. Cost less.

narendra.vw Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:52 am

EPS Mod Continued…..

Provided Star joint bottom shaft bored app 1mm.


1.OE bottom shaft is cut & outer dia is reduced by 1mm……2.OE shaft is press fitted into provided Star joint bottom shaft . Once length is determined it will be co2 welded(End to end app 185 mm).


To fix actual length, the EPS as a unit should be fitted temporarily with the Steering wheel bolted. The bottom shaft bolt which connects Steering box pinion also to be bolted. Once the length is determined, EPS unit is carefully removed & Both shaft welded with that fixed length.

The top TD shaft press fit to EPS shaft, is co2 welded. Job Repeated to Bottom shaft.


Both top & bottom Shaft were drilled extra 8mm Hole & co2 welded, Safety at it’s best( Above arrow shown).

Completed EPS unit finial fit. 1. Control knob yet to find a place. 2. Motor’s extra weight transfer bracket 3. Custom Clamp for Colum cover.


Completes Mechanical work.

Some back log.
Wood flooring Mod.

The Mod is done in such a way that wood will sit in the slot & does not move around. Screwing the Wood to any part of the Van is avoided.
Easy removable of Wood floor helps in checking for any rust or floor is to be cleaned.

2” teak bedding used to level the floor.


¼” water proof Plywood is glued & nailed to the bedding.


One more ¼” layer of OSP(One side polish) is glued over the existing Plywood.


One coat of plastic coating & one thick layer coat of clear completes the Wooden floor.


Next, EPS Electrical Control’s & Connection….

narendra.vw Mon May 05, 2014 5:55 am

Electrical Control’s & Connection.

The circuit wires have a very neat socket which are well marked to go into their designated places. Two colored wires for control knob. Connection to main battery & Ignition on switch via fuses & two wires for grounding. This completes wiring.

1. Electrical control box & Mini ECU(Black Box)………….2.Control box fitted in it’s predetermined place.


30 amps fuse for motor, 5 amps for mini ECU(Not shown). TDI Engine relay sockets can been seen.

This completes electrical safety.

Completed work out look . Except motor projection, rest are all in OE position.(Control knob on bottom Colum cover).


Important note- 1. Cutting angle of EPS is more than HPS.
2. Ignition On, EPS starts working. No need to run the engine.

Modification done only to the steering Colum. Modified Colum is fitted to the OE van’s Colum mounting member. A spare OE steering Colum can be fixed back within minutes( Expect money & time spent).
Few km of trial run, Steering made a huge difference. Reversing or Driving in City traffic was a breeze. Steering wheel needs to be replaced with smaller dia with respect to steering sensitiveness.

Did a few km acid test on winding country road, deliberately driving on bad patches with good speeds (Downhill & uphill.). Van handled vary well. No slack, no feed back of undulation of the road, no unwanted sound in the steering Colum. Cornering was precise. I have not tried on hard off Road.

My Daughter Modeling for my Van… Place, my Sister’s farm, Late evening & drizzling (The first drive to my Sister’s place with the EPS unit fitted. Did a round trip clocking 450 miles. Hilly terrain & winding Roads).


A journey clip to my Sister’s place with EPS unit fitted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqA0l1yheT0

Ends EPS unit Mod.

Motorized Sun Roof in brief. (Donor, Rover Montego).

Mod details.
Cut the donor roof sheet 3” more, right round the Sun roof. It comes in handy while aligning & proper fixing.

The most important, Sun roof needs proper water drainage on all four corners. Front two drain made way through the sides of front Door catcher Pillars, Other two found their way to the rear, where ac water drains out.

Roof cut to the required size.


Sun roof slide open………..2.Two way Operational.


Sun Roof seen from inside with closed Sun Shade. Note the TD ac vent Mod.



Sun roof top view. Shark fin antenna also seen.


Tap on the keypad, the thread will be back!

Gizmoman Mon May 05, 2014 6:17 am

Very impressive work sir!

narendra.vw Mon May 05, 2014 6:59 am

Thank you. If you have any clarification, please do ask me.

narendra.vw Sat May 31, 2014 10:05 pm

One of the Mod’s I have been enjoying on a day to day basis. :D

Clutch unit Up grade.(Samba, I owe you for helping me make this possible).

Clutch plate upgraded from 215 mm dia to 228 mm dia.
Parts used,
1.Donor, Skoda ALH engine’s Fly wheel & Pressure plate. Luckily, I had stored these in a safe place.
2.Clutch plate, WBX 2.1 (Spline of WBX 2.1 Clutch plate matches with Top gear shaft Spline of the TD 5 Speed Gearbox).
Try not to discard any old parts until the project is finished to your satisfaction. It may come in handy later.
Work Done.
1.ALH flywheel outer dia skimmed 4mm for starter access.
2.Pressure plate tabs were bended to make space inside the Bell housing.
3.Custom dust plate made because TD dust plate can’t accommodate due to the narrow space between engine block & the flywheel.

Note: TD starter works with ALH flywheel ring. The ALH ring has 3 teeth more then TD ring.
ALH engine starter works by using a spacer(I have set my mind on it).

Clutch Up grade Visuals.

TDI Flywheel


Left:-- 228mm ALH Clutch plate(Spline does not match)…… Right,:---228mm WBX 2.1 Clutch plate(Sachs Make).



ALH flywheel & ALH pressure plate getting ready.


Dust plate customized.


TD 5 speed gearbox. Note: the starter fits on Bell housing top. This Gearbox is perfect for the Clutch Up grade(In particular Top Gear shaft length).


My observation after completing 3000+ miles.
1. Engine vibration has reduced drastically(TD mounts are used for engine mounting).
2. Engine idling sound is minimized.
3. The Van running in higher Gear with a low rpm, runs without giving any jerks.
4. 1st Gear, sudden acceleration causes wheel spins.
4. No burnt smell while hard Gear shifting uphill or downhill driving.

Clutch Life, still early days.

narendra.vw Thu Jun 26, 2014 10:43 pm

Cable Type Gear Shifter.

Hi, folks! I would like to know if any of you have thought of switching to cable shifter or have had it modified already & are using it. Please share your experience.
Since I am working on it, your feed back will be helpful in my progress. Presently, 25% of the work is completed.
I am not working directly on to the van. To be sure, I am making a working Model.
I have fabricated a fixture which works like a gearbox shifter shaft. Once perfected, the unit will be transferred to the van.
Yes, I know many Units suitable for the Van are readily available, . However, they are quite expensive for me to import. Along with Unit cost, I have to pay Duty & shipping cost. So, I decided to work on my own design. I am very happy with the present progress. :)

Things I had to keep in mind for the Unit to work efficiently ;
1. Gear lever positioning( Easy to reach (Not like OE) & Arm moment is not limited.
1.Shifter’s reverse & 1st Gear with spring load Design matches with the van shifter Design.
2. Shifter Cable joining unit( I am using two cables in each line to over come the 8’ length).
3. Selector lever’s Stroke length for the Gearbox shifter shaft.
I am making two points for cable adjustment & also working on shorter Stroke shifting.

Note:- The only consumable part in this Mod, will be the Cable.

To start of,
There are two types of shifter units.
One Gear shifter cable connected to the gear lever above the pivot point & one below the pivot point.
Both can be used. The only change will be in the Gearbox’s shifter lever position.
I preferred the latter one.
I am using Mitsubishi lancer metal 5 speed Gear shifter. Most of the Japanese Hatch or Sedan FWD 5 speed unit should work. Please look out for metal Shifter unit. They are Mod friendly, Strong & Long lasting. Avoid plastic shifters.

Visuals.

Shifter with Gear shifter cable connected to the gear lever above the pivot point


Mitsubishi lancer shifter. Note:-- Gear shifter cable is below the gear lever pivot point.


L...FWD Japanese Sedan’s Gear shifting position…….R…When the Unit is reversed, it perfectly matches with the Van’s Gear shifting position.

narendra.vw Fri Jul 04, 2014 6:06 am

Spending some time near the study table, I gained confidence to go ahead.

Basic Design of Gear selector. Note:--When the Gear lever is pressed to the left( with the Spring load) the 1st or the Reverse can be selected as per the Van Gear shifting Design.


Parts used for developing selector lever. The drilled hole on the Bush act’s as a guide to give 90* angle for the Ball joint rod, later it is welded to the bush.


Connecter between Ball joint & Shifter shaft (M10 thread on the left, M8 thread on the right).


Demo of how Gear Selector shaft works. Shaft moment, max 30mm.(1.18”)


:o Not a single input.
I guess my work was not very intriguing.
Since, the Van is not stranded & in use, I have enough time to perfect my work.

markd89 Fri Jul 04, 2014 8:07 am

narendra.vw wrote:
:o Not a single input.
I guess my work was not very intriguing.
Since, the Van is not stranded & in use, I have enough time to perfect my work.

Far from it. Very cool project and impressive innovations :-D

Mark

narendra.vw Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:42 am

Thanks Mark.

Update on my Project.
Slowly but steadily project is taking shape.
After a few trips to the Lathe shop, the major work was completed(Visiting a Lathe shop is a must in this Project).

Temporarily the Modified selector unit was fitted onto the Gearbox. Final setting was made so that Selector lever operates smoothly.

Leftover threads from the shifter shaft were used to connect the Ball joint lever.
Visuals.

Unit was fitted onto the Gearbox.


Top view of the unit. Since the OE shifter is still in use, OE Ball shifter lever wasn‘t removed.


Next step, the making of Gear shifter lever.

There are two ways of doing it.
1. Welding a 3”L flat to the existing ball type shifter lever(I will let you know the advantage in the coming posts).
2 straighten the shifter lever. The stretched lever measures 3.5” in length.

Visuals.

Adding a flat of 3” length.


stretched lever. 8mm hole to be drilled for cable fitting. Arrow shown.


For my use,
An old lever was used for stretching. For Cable fitting, 8mm hole was drilled at the bottom of the lever.

Next step is to make the stopper for Cables.
Unit needs minor changes & finishing touches Should be done by this week end.



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