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Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:57 am

I have a 1915, Engle 120 cam, stock heads, 009 dizzy with point delete and 34 Pict 3 carb.

I just recently picked this car up. I want to get a fresh set of plugs in there. I was looking for recommendations for plugs and gap setting.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:59 am

single carb?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:00 am

Jesse1914 wrote: single carb?

Yeah, single carb.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:03 am

How is the power? I wouldn't that would be enough carb for that cam. Im running a single 40 idf at it lacks a bit. same size motor, same cam.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:09 am

Jesse1914 wrote: How is the power? I wouldn't that would be enough carb for that cam. Im running a single 40 idf at it lacks a bit. same size motor, same cam.

Quite restrictive. I am on the lookout for a single 40 IDF and a manifold. I have just not had the money yet. I think it would wake the motor up quite a bit.

I am attending the Street Rod Nationals this weekend in Pueblo Colorado. There is quite a good swap meet that happens there. I hope I can bump into a single 40 with a manifold. We will see.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:15 am

The 40 idf is decent. If you want to stick with the single, make sure the manifold is heated. Makes life MUCH easier in the tuning world. It will wake it up some, but if you want to really see what she can do...get two 40's and have some port work done. You say u have stock heads as well, are we talking stock rockers, springs, the whole smash?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:20 am

Jesse1914 wrote: The 40 idf is decent. If you want to stick with the single, make sure the manifold is heated. Makes life MUCH easier in the tuning world. It will wake it up some, but if you want to really see what she can do...get two 40's and have some port work done. You say u have stock heads as well, are we talking stock rockers, springs, the whole smash?

I DO NOT WANT DUAL CARBS! I hate tuning one carb, and I will not go through the headache or trouble of doing duals.

As far as the heads and what is below, I have no idea. I do know that they guy that build this motor is super good a building 1915's. I had him look it over and tune it this weekend. He was the one that recommended a single 40 to get it to work a little better. I will have to get ahold of him and ask about the internals.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:23 am

This is what I would be looking for.....

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:29 am

Fair enough. Just make sure the intake is heated or it will never be quite right. Pop off a valve cover and do a visual on the rockers. If it has four clips on it and wavy washers and shims...thats stock. The 120 cam has a good bit of ramp to it and you will start breaking the wavy washers due to the side force created by a higher lift cam. Go solid rocker shafts (if not already done) and upgrade the valve springs. This should already be done seeing as it was built by an experienced builder. But an experienced builder (soley my opinion here) would not put that carb on that motor. just my .02. Not trying to be disrespectful.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:31 am

one4house wrote: This is what I would be looking for.....

Thats the one!

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:32 am

Jesse1914 wrote: Fair enough. Just make sure the intake is heated or it will never be quite right. Pop off a valve cover and do a visual on the rockers. If it has four clips on it and wavy washers and shims...thats stock. The 120 cam has a good bit of ramp to it and you will start breaking the wavy washers due to the side force created by a higher lift cam. Go solid rocker shafts (if not already done) and upgrade the valve springs. This should already be done seeing as it was built by an experienced builder. But an experienced builder (soley my opinion here) would not put that carb on that motor. just my .02. Not trying to be disrespectful.

All good and I agree on the carb. It will be the first, and most needed, upgrade.

I appreciate the ideas on what to look for. I will snap some pictures sometime this week. That way I can find out for my self. Much appreciated.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:37 am

Any recommendations on those plugs I am asking about?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:39 am

Anytime! I have already hicupped through the single carb thing, spending cash, breaking stuff, crap mileage and poor performance. Always glad to share my f*ck ups so others can have a jump on the game..I'm still learning too and probably always will be..lol! The Samba is an AWESOME resource for parts and information. I'm totally addicted....lol

Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:45 am

After a lot of searching, it looks like a NGK plug with .024 to .028 gap will be best. Does anyone know the specific NGK model number, so I ca n just take the guess-work out of it?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:47 am

you have 3 sizes of plug we need to know before we can tell you which ones.

12 x 3/4"
14 x 1/2"
14 x 3/4"

which do you have?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:50 am

[email protected] wrote: you have 3 sizes of plug we need to know before we can tell you which ones.

12 x 3/4"
14 x 1/2"
14 x 3/4"

which do you have?

No idea. I do know it is a reworked 1600 dual port with stock heads. I have seen.

Autolite 425, NGK Nickel Spark Plug (B6HS) mentioned.

What, exactly, specifies what size I have / need? The heads?

Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:53 am

When I get home from work today I will pull one out and get the information off of it and look it up.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:58 am

the spark plug threads in the head are what dictates the plug thread size. The most common is the 14 x 1/2". The stock NGK replacement for that is B5HS, but some guys run B6HS also.

With NGK

B or D is the thread size. B = 14mm. D = 12mm
The # is the heat range.
After the heat range, the first letter is the thread length. H = 1/2", E = 3/4".
the letter(s) after the heat range specify gap, or electrode types.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:00 pm

[email protected] wrote: the spark plug threads in the head are what dictates the plug thread size. The most common is the 14 x 1/2". The stock NGK replacement for that is B5HS, but some guys run B6HS also.

With NGK

B or D is the thread size. B = 14mm. D = 12mm
The # is the heat range.
After the heat range, the first letter is the thread length. H = 1/2", E = 3/4".
the letter(s) after the heat range specify gap, or electrode types.

That is the information I was needing. I will pull a plug and cross it to find the thread. I appreciate the info.

Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:16 pm

I don't know if I need to change the plugs. They not only looked new. They looked like they are burning great.

What does everyone else think?