View original topic: 6 volt starter with newer style flywheel
scottssoccer Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:03 pm

What is the best way to grind the inside of bell housing so the flywheel does not rub?

VOLKSWAGNUT Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:39 am;start=20

drs1023 Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:15 am

The info in that link is dead on. I clearance a '63 a year or so back and didn't make the template. I partially mounted the engine and spun it around to score the inside of the transaxle to get the outline of the 200 mm flywheel. You don't really need to go so deep around the mounting bolt areas.

I used the auto stick starter on mine.

Wayne S. Johnson Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:51 pm

I saw a post where a guy started his 12V engine with a rope or something before it was bolted in the trans. Then he tightened the mounting bolts while the teeth on the flywheel cued up the Magnesium.

scottssoccer Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:02 pm

Thanks for the help.As always, there are always poeple willing to give good info.

glutamodo Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:24 pm

By the way, your title " 6 volt starter with newer style flywheel" isn't very hopeful - while they did make 6V starters set up for the 130 tooth ring gear, you won't find many of them in the USA. (1966 Ghia models used two of them, initially a self-supporting starter like the automatics used, the SR13X, then the SR14X, which I think was also the one used 67/later in non-USA 6V markets) The common SR11X won't work with a 130-tooth flywheel, the gear is too big. You need to match your starter to the ring gear. If you measure across the gears with a caliper, the starter for the 109 tooth flywheel is about 29mm. The one for the 130 tooth flywheel is about 25mm. That 4mm decrease mirrors the 4mm increase in the flywheels, which were 272mm for 109 teeth and 276mm for 130 teeth.

Starter gear for the early/mid 66 Ghia SR13X and the standard 109-tooth SR11X

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