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Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:04 am

The firing order won't change ever BUT you might have two wires switched. Hold #1 plug wire at dizzy and hold #1 plug wire near the plug now gently tug the wire to make sure it's the right wire Repeat holding #2 (go counter clockwise around the dizzy as the firing order in reverse is 1,2,3,4) this way you can check the wires without going back and forth on the motor. Now speaking of wires how old are yours? it might be time for new ones. How old is the gas in the tank and does it smell bad?

Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:21 am

wires are , brand new and correct , order, fresh gas , with octane boost, will be checking compression,( if i ever get it running , won't start at all now, assuming,it's an electrical issue, have to laugh now, otherwise i'd push this piece of s**t of a cliff !

Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:17 pm

You say the problem has been going on for awhile, I think it might be your ground strap from frame to trans/engine is corroded or broken. Remove it and shine up the contact surfaces. My sister had this problem with her 912 and it took about 3 mo.s to finally figure it out.

Mon Oct 16, 2017 3:38 am

hopefully can check wiring, clean all connections to and from battery to starter, and ground strap as you have suggestion, thanks again

Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:24 am

If you still have problems after cleaning connections. Hopefully you still have your old dizzy and coil and you could try using them to see if your Flamethrower has crapped out.

Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:05 pm

latest update; new battery cleaned all electrical
connections, i mean all, still won't start, is there maybe a fuse or relay under the dash , something I'm overlooking ? please help , I'm at wits end !

Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:55 pm

You have to figure out if you're getting spark to the plugs. Remove #2 plug wire and using a spare plug ground the hex part to a good ground and have someone crank the starter and see if you have a good spark, if so get a can of sure start and spray some in both carbs and if it starts and runs a few seconds it's a fuel problem, sediment plugging fuel pick up, blocked fuel line from tank, bad fuel pump, or carbs (which I doubt as it won't even start). No spark, make sure you are getting 12v to the coil, if so bad coil or dizzy.

Wed Oct 18, 2017 4:08 pm

thats not it , i turn the key and nothing at all, won't even crank now, once i figure out thee electrical issue, i can get back to the original problem, any help here would be greatly appreciated

Thu Oct 19, 2017 8:26 am

All the power going to the starter solenoid and the coil goes through #1 fuse (Red one). Remove it and inspect for breakage, polish the ends of fuse and holder. Make sure all the connectors are connected and have good contact.

Thu Oct 19, 2017 8:49 am

update, still had flamethrower dizzy lying around, put it back in, just a fluke, car started and ran, and ran half way decent, i guess the used $450.00 022 dizzy is junk, :( , car only starts a few times , then it won't , still struggling with electrical issues, don't know what else to check, but to sum up ,I'm making progress :) ,slow but sure .

Thu Oct 19, 2017 9:15 am

Bear in mind.....any distributor that uses a Pertronix or compufire ...and magnetic points replacement module....will have a different distributor position to produce the exact same timing. You cannot static time it. It must be done with a strobe.

Now....that being said....your stock distributor with points can be at least static timed for first start up.

Before you call your stock distributor dead....check it. There is no magic here. With the distributor out of the car....does it have excessive axial and radial play or worn point cams?....if not...its not the distributor.

Does the vacuum advance (if you have vacuum advance) plate move smoothly...does the advance unit work? Have you oiled the shaft under the wick in the top and taken the pints plate out and oiled the advance weights and springs?
All of this can be done in five minutes.

Typically....for example....on my type 4 1.7L with EFI....the stock distributor with points when properly timed to 27 BTDC at 3500 rpm.....has about a 6mm different distributor position when a pertronix module is installed and properly timed with a strobe.

Yours will too. So if you can drop a Pertronix distributor in and have it run....and then drop a stock distributor in in the same position ....and have it not run.....that will be part of the problem. Both distributors cannot be made to work in the exact,same inotiwl timing position. There will be a difference of about five degress.
I would put points in for the moment in your stock distributor after cleaning and oiling.....and drop it in....and advance the body rotation just a little at a time until it starts and then check exact position with a strobe. Ray
Ray

Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:56 am

the two dizzy are definately in different positions when timed, but it runs much better with flamethrower. I would rather run the 022,but don't know how to fix it. It does not have excess play , but the drive gear on the bottom seems kinda loose (side to side) lobes are not warn, will re-clean and oil as you have suggested, thanks for your input

Fri Oct 20, 2017 8:04 pm

brojames wrote: the two dizzy are definately in different positions when timed, but it runs much better with flamethrower. I would rather run the 022,but don't know how to fix it. It does not have excess play , but the drive gear on the bottom seems kinda loose (side to side) lobes are not warn, will re-clean and oil as you have suggested, thanks for your input

Ok...you are on the right track. The drive dog looseness can make some difference...but only vertical play between the drive so2g and distributor body will be ugly. If its kvsr about .010" one of the shims has worn away and it can cause problems.

The 40Kv pertronix coil is excellent. In a stock distributor with a pertronix module in place
Of point's .....there are a whole list of itema that can cause poor running. I will provide the list in the am. Ray

Sat Oct 21, 2017 4:30 am

i'm back to fuel issues, removed in-line fuel filter, was very dirty, removed fuel pump, was also very dirty inside, even with clean fuel tank and fresh gas,its still sucking a lot of crap out, will be pulling tank and cleaning yet again, is there a way to clean fuel lines , or should i just replace them ? someone has said todays gas can go bad in as little as 30 days, i have always added stay-bils to all my engines, in the fall.

Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:52 am

With the lines disconnected use compressed air to blow them out. Replace any hard brittle rubber lines.

Sat Oct 28, 2017 9:46 am

cleaned fuel tank and lines again, replaced rubber lines,started and runs quite well, when i adjust the 4 idle mixture screws on carbs, little if anything happens, what could cause this ? perhaps pull and clean carbs again ? while they are out, may change some hardware,recommendations appreciated !

Sat Oct 28, 2017 12:23 pm

Make sure the carb linkage is activating both carbs at the same time. Hold a plastic straw down a carb throat on each size and have a helper push on the gas pedal till the butterflies just start to open, both carbs should open at the exact same time, if not adjust linkage. The accelerator pumps should start squirting gas at that moment also.

Sat Dec 29, 2018 11:50 pm

You have the wrong Distributor. Grab a nice 022 from the classifieds and call it a day. Have fun! She'll rip once she's got the right distributor in her. 912's are great, they're all about handling. Remember the Spec Miata motto: "Momentum, momentum, momentum!"