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  View original topic: rear heater & 2.5 subie
yycwesty Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:19 pm

I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al

BillM Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:58 pm

I am assuming that you want to join the hoses to act as a bypass of some
sorts not being familiar with your conversion. I would think that some kind
of restrictor would still be advantageous. Something as simple as a smaller
piece of hose inside the loop or a section of aluminum rod with a hole
drilled in it.
I would personally do all the connections under the van. With my conversion
I keep the rear heater in place and the valve wide open so I can shut off
the front completely. I never feel any heat coming out of the rear unless
I turn the blower on.

Wildthings Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:32 pm

If you don't restrict the flow through the loop you may not be able to get a sufficient flow of water to the front heater for it to function well.

Jake de Villiers Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:03 pm

yycwesty wrote: I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al

No need to loop them for the engine's sake. Who did your conversion?

There should be a dedicated line from the coolant manifold on the engine to the thermostat housing to provide direct feedback to the thermostat.

dobryan Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:05 pm

Jake de Villiers wrote: yycwesty wrote: I'm going to remove my rear heater to provide extra room (don't drive the westy in the winter). I have to loop the line as I have the subaru engine.

For those who have done the job, is the best access to do the job from above in the engine compartment or from below (haven't looked yet so looking for advice).

I plan on making my loop where I currently have the T's coming off the main radiator lines to the rear heater. Will just turn those T's sideways and joining with a piece of the hose which fed the rear heater. My goal is to avoid loosing as little antifreeze as possible and introducing as little air as possible so as to avoid the whole bleeding the system thing.

So lots of clamps and patience. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Al

No need to loop them for the engine's sake. Who did your conversion?

There should be a dedicated line from the coolant manifold on the engine to the thermostat housing to provide direct feedback to the thermostat.

Actually many of the Subie conversions do not have the dedicated line, they use the heater circuit as the feedback loop. Only Tom Shiels has a dedicated line setup that I am aware of...

yycwesty Mon Sep 16, 2013 8:26 pm

Yes no dedicated line in my conversion looping is the way I will go

ftp2leta Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:37 am

Loop the this way if you can:



This is the safety bypass we use:



Ben

Jake de Villiers Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:26 am

The dedicated bypass as used by Tom Shiels and Smallcar keeps the engine temperature rock solid in the same way that the OEM system does. YMMV

dobryan Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:32 am

Jake de Villiers wrote: The dedicated bypass as used by Tom Shiels and Smallcar keeps the engine temperature rock solid in the same way that the OEM system does. YMMV

Yes it does. I highly recommend it.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522274&highlight=shiels

yycwesty Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:56 am

Ben

Thanks for the pic..My install is a Vanaru with Nolan installing it in Seattle, so the same units you install. Nice to see what I'll be looking for once I get under the rig

Cheers
Al

dobryan Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:31 am

Blast from the past. :wink:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=533531&highlight=shiels

kamzcab86 Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:56 pm

yycwesty wrote: dobryan wrote: Blast from the past. :wink:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=533531&highlight=shiels

You bet but if you notice on that post last year my concern was to loop or not whereas this post I wanted to know the best way to work on the pipes from the top or the bottom

^Two threads with the same title covering the same basic info will lead to confusion... case in point: you replied in the original topic, which, from the sounds of it, was meant to be here (I copied & pasted it above). This is the current topic, so the other has been locked for the time being. :wink:

To answer this topic's question: When I removed my rear heater and, thus, the T-fittings, there was no way, no how that I could access them from above; I had to do the job from underneath the van. However, I've got the original WBX; perhaps a Subaru allows for better access from above, but doubtful.

yycwesty Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:07 pm

Thanks Kamzcabb..Will work from underneath
Cheers
Al



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