TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1966 Kombi Walk Thru Bus Restore Questions

Sat Sep 21, 2013 3:17 am

kombigirl66 wrote: mandraks wrote: is that a bay front beam? looks like the front was "upgraded"?
---- What photo are you looking at that makes you think that? (Im a newbie remember so Im not too sure what you mean) I sure hope its original.

find a motor that makes you bus go as fast as you are allowed to tow, then just tow.
---- Im thinking the 1914 if I am to get a new/used engine. Or just tweak my 1600 (somehow? - opinions needed) to drive top speed 70lbs and still be able to tow 1000 lbs around 50lbs.

...
freeway flier most likely with a 1776 sounds like good start.
---- From what I read 1776 is good, 1835 you might as well go 1914. The 1835s have cracking issues? Anyway leaning toward 1914 as long as price isnt too much diff from a 1776.

you will find that your front wheels and rear wheels are different, thanks to the front axle beam being newer than stock.

If done right that does not have to be a bad thing at all. However using different wheels front and back (stock is 205mm wide five) is not very practical.

going with the IRS independent rear suspension setup from the newer (beetle or bay window) buses is a popular upgrade.

there are some guys in florida that do run IRS on their splits.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:03 am

kombigirl66 wrote:

**How would you rate this bus?

Your bus is a great start.
The interior is looks to be platinum. One of my favorite interiors.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:21 am

Did you find the m-code plate mounted on divider wall behind the passenger seat.

This will tell all the original info on your bus.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:02 am

It sounds like she has the means to get this on the road now all she needs is the know how. As big as the scene has gotten in the southeast there has got to be someone who can sit down with her and answer her questions.

The 1776 fix is easy unless you want it right now but all you need to do is have your existing engine rebuilt but have the case and heads machined for 90.5mm pistons and cylinders. The rest of the long block is essentially stock. If you don't want to do that there are a few builders that can help you on the east coast. Check with Kawell racing engines and Jake Raby just for starters. Stay away from GEX if they are even still around. But you should be able to find a builder close by who can rebuild your engine in about the time you would wait for one to get shipped to. Plus you support your local economy.

Where in FL are you located so people know and might be able to meet with you and give some guidance and advice.

BTW nice bus and its my understanding that Eroupeans call most is not all buses kombis so your User name still fits.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:52 pm

It will catch a lot of attention and be a ball to drive- BUT--notice many trip stories have a lot of "congratulations " for getting it done with out a major break down. So have a second car you can use as a back up.

They can be made to run for as good as they were but much like Laurains SAAB it took 3 years to get it together. Be prepared.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:41 pm

mandraks wrote: kombigirl66 wrote: mandraks wrote: is that a bay front beam? looks like the front was "upgraded"?
---- What photo are you looking at that makes you think that? (Im a newbie remember so Im not too sure what you mean) I sure hope its original.

find a motor that makes you bus go as fast as you are allowed to tow, then just tow.
---- Im thinking the 1914 if I am to get a new/used engine. Or just tweak my 1600 (somehow? - opinions needed) to drive top speed 70lbs and still be able to tow 1000 lbs around 50lbs.

...
freeway flier most likely with a 1776 sounds like good start.
---- From what I read 1776 is good, 1835 you might as well go 1914. The 1835s have cracking issues? Anyway leaning toward 1914 as long as price isnt too much diff from a 1776.

you will find that your front wheels and rear wheels are different, thanks to the front axle beam being newer than stock.
----Ill ask my custom guys as I dont know much about that. Thanks for the tips tho!

If done right that does not have to be a bad thing at all. However using different wheels front and back (stock is 205mm wide five) is not very practical.
---- How is it not a bad thing? So right now it looks like my front and back wheels are different? Ya Id prefer them to be the same. As you mentioned, much easier.

going with the IRS independent rear suspension setup from the newer (beetle or bay window) buses is a popular upgrade.
---- Ill ask about this too. Otherwise what suspension would I go with? Stock? Ill have to see what is on there currently. Wish I knew much more about mechanics...Im going to have to learn!

there are some guys in florida that do run IRS on their splits.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:41 pm

williamM wrote: It will catch a lot of attention and be a ball to drive- BUT--notice many trip stories have a lot of "congratulations " for getting it done with out a major break down. So have a second car you can use as a back up.

They can be made to run for as good as they were but much like Laurains SAAB it took 3 years to get it together. Be prepared.

---- Keeping my fingers crossed that I dont have THAT many problems with it. I hear the horror stories. I hope Im a lucky one!

Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:45 pm

pondoras box wrote: It sounds like she has the means to get this on the road now all she needs is the know how. As big as the scene has gotten in the southeast there has got to be someone who can sit down with her and answer her questions.

The 1776 fix is easy unless you want it right now but all you need to do is have your existing engine rebuilt but have the case and heads machined for 90.5mm pistons and cylinders. The rest of the long block is essentially stock. If you don't want to do that there are a few builders that can help you on the east coast. Check with Kawell racing engines and Jake Raby just for starters. Stay away from GEX if they are even still around. But you should be able to find a builder close by who can rebuild your engine in about the time you would wait for one to get shipped to. Plus you support your local economy

----Im going to take your advice and try to get my 1600 rebuilt. I think thatll save some $ too. Thanks!
Right now I am in Vegas but Ill be shipping this bus when its finished to Florida where Ill be living.

Where in FL are you located so people know and might be able to meet with you and give some guidance and advice.

---- Jupiter - its near West Palm Beach, FL
Ill also be buying a Dub Box and starting a Food truck business out of that and towing it with my 1966 Restored VW Bus. :) Keep an eye out for it! (Coffee and Crepes)

BTW nice bus and its my understanding that Eroupeans call most is not all buses kombis so your User name still fits.

--- Im not European (well technically, I was born in the US but Im French/Dutch) I chose the Kombi name because when I bought the bus I was told it was a Kombi and the title says Kombi but its obviously not. Time for a name change! :)

Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:46 pm

brettsvw wrote: Did you find the m-code plate mounted on divider wall behind the passenger seat.

This will tell all the original info on your bus.

---- Its not on the bus anymore :( As you can see in the photo above there is nothing on the passenger seat. The driver seat has a square like that but it doesnt have any info in it either.

Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:51 pm

Your bus is a great start.
The interior is looks to be platinum. One of my favorite interiors.

---- Thanks for the photo! Thatll help. Im going to go with a matching color from the exterior (mint green) and a cream white. The floor will be wood like the old 1950 Chevy Truck Beds (photo below)

Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:12 am

kombigirl66 wrote: pyrOman wrote: Where in Floriduh? The VW scene there has been growing tremendously in the last few years! Lost of great folks and clubs to be part of. :P

East Coast of Florida, West Palm Beach. Thats great to hear! Id love to continue building the bus gradually and enjoy it. Ill def look into some clubs and Im sure Ill meet a lot of VW lovers just having the bus!

Alte Schule Vintage and Performance- vw club in wpb florida

Mon Sep 23, 2013 9:52 am

kombigirl66 wrote: brettsvw wrote: Did you find the m-code plate mounted on divider wall behind the passenger seat.

This will tell all the original info on your bus.

---- Its not on the bus anymore :( As you can see in the photo above there is nothing on the passenger seat. The driver seat has a square like that but it doesnt have any info in it either. .

It is on the front facing portion of the divider behind(remove seat to view) the front seat

Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:11 pm

ToolBox wrote: kombigirl66 wrote: brettsvw wrote: Did you find the m-code plate mounted on divider wall behind the passenger seat.

This will tell all the original info on your bus.

---- Its not on the bus anymore :( As you can see in the photo above there is nothing on the passenger seat. The driver seat has a square like that but it doesnt have any info in it either. .

It is on the front facing portion of the divider behind(remove seat to view) the front seat

---Ohhh okay I will take a look next time I see the bus :) Thank You!

Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:15 pm

Ive looked through Samba and found a few but also wanted to through it out on my post and ask some of you.
Anyone have any experience with shops in South Florida? West Palm Beach or Melbourne FL?
As seen in my photos, I am getting it restored in Vegas right now but I am having to stay on top of my guys too much and I dont feel things are getting done on time or possibly in the best way. (They could fool me as I am new at this)
I have found another place in Vegas called Beetle Barn and read great reviews along with talking face to face with them. I would feel comfortable finishing my bus with them but the catch is, I move to FL in 2 weeks. So when finished it would have to be shipped.
OR - I ship it with me and I have it done in Florida. I just dont know if there is a shop I can trust that wont take me for a ride for my $.
What would you do?

Thanks for reading!

Thu Oct 03, 2013 10:44 pm

In my opinion a bus is a lousy choice for a tow vehicle. The "frame" is weak and proper tow packages that pull from torsion bar are rare and expensive. If you are really towing 750 to 1000 kg (1650 to 2200 pound) trailer you may find your stock bus brakes lacking.

Fri Oct 04, 2013 4:20 am

I would take it when you move. Just about every shop will put your on the back burner after you leave. Its just human nature to take care of the things that seem to be most important at the time and other things wait until later. I have heard countless stories of vehicles that have sat for years in restoration shops only to be picked up undone and with parts missing.

If you are local to where the work is getting done you can check on it and monitor progress on a regular basis. It will keep them motivated to get work done on your bus if they know you will be stopping in sometime this week. Not to mention that if something is not up to your standards it can be corrected before paint is sprayed If something goes wrong at a shop in Las Vegas you are left trying to deal with a shop that is 2,000+ miles away.

Everytime that I have had a vehicle shipped, three times now, it has been a pain and in one instance something dripped from the car above onto my car's roof and it damaged the paint. Rent a trailer and tow it yourself behind a moving truck.

Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:50 am

joe cool wrote: In my opinion a bus is a lousy choice for a tow vehicle. The "frame" is weak and proper tow packages that pull from torsion bar are rare and expensive. If you are really towing 750 to 1000 kg (1650 to 2200 pound) trailer you may find your stock bus brakes lacking.
depends on the trailer and hitch...

a westy hitch will pull a ton, and a trailer with trailer brakes will make sure you can stop.

The old german trailers have brakes that come on when the tongue compresses. (i think they are called "surge brakes" here? Electric brakes on newer trailers should also do the trick?

towing a 2000 pound trailer without brakes behind a bus is definitely a no go

Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:03 pm

M Code to my 1966 VW Bus 13 Window Walk Thru

Can you tell me more about it than the obvious color?

Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:03 am

pondoras box wrote: I would take it when you move.

X1000!!! :shock:

No matter at what stage it is right now on its "progress", what ever you do, TAKE IT WITH YOU!!!! :|

Have you approached the WPB clubs yet? :?

Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:12 pm

pyrOman wrote: pondoras box wrote: I would take it when you move.

X1000!!! :shock:

No matter at what stage it is right now on its "progress", what ever you do, TAKE IT WITH YOU!!!! :|

Have you approached the WPB clubs yet? :?

I found a place in town I trust. I dont know any mechanics or restoration shops around me in FL. I have a good feeling leaving it here in Vegas with this shop. They have good reviews and I spoke face to face with them. He talked to me like a business man not a mechanic and their whole place seemed very well put together and responsible. They have worked on strictly VW, Porsche and Audi for 59 years!
I know being able to see it in person during the process is best but I wouldnt even know what Im looking at truthfully. I trust they will do it right. He will send photos daily and weekely on progress and ship it out when finished.
Im of course skeptical to somepoint but I have a good feeling about them. :) I hope Im making the RIGHT decision.

I have reached out to clubs but have not gotten any reply yet. Still waiting...