TheSamba.com :: View topic - Master cylinder vs. Tie Rod issue ... again

Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:28 pm

I have a Master cylinder vs. Tie Rod issue with a new dual MC. It seams the MC needs a 90 instead of a 45 near the tie rod. Does any one know where I can get one? The old MC is gone.

Sorry to post this but I can not find a post that deals with this. I am about to pull out my pex tools and make one.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:32 am

What year car is it? I have a 1964 with a dual circuit master cylinder without any problems.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:22 am

I have a 1963 top on a 67 pan.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:40 am

Most (all?) Type 3 masters come with a (near-) 90° nipple:

Did you use a Bug unit?

Sorry, I don't know where to get just a 90° nipple.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:22 am

yep, I must have. Someone told me they were the same and I bought one for $25. I didn't want to pay $100. NOW I KNOW.... All my lines reach I just need a 90 and a longer push rod and I should be good.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:38 am

Another difference in Bug units is the threading (or lack of same) of the two mounting holes. IIRC, the Bug MCs are threaded, so you drill out the threads to use it on a T3.

Here's another pic of the correct nipples:

Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:09 am

That was the first issue I found and then started drilling the threads out.

Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:17 pm

I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks

Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:00 pm

You can take your pick of my master cylinders here near Harrisburg for $50. :idea:

Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:16 am

Dirtsniffer wrote: I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks

According to Sharkskinman, you're supposed to only use the guts of the type 1 master cylinder to rebuild a type 3 master cylinder. That's all. I've always either bought a rebuilt one from Car Quest (when I needed 1 now), or I've have Jim Adney rebuild them. He does a great job rebuilding them. 8)

Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:45 am

VW changed the port configurations somewhere around '71, so when I replaced my master I had to make up a new line for the left front.

Check this thread for more info:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561653&highlight=hanger+coat

Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:41 am

Dirtsniffer wrote: I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks

Look- you've got a Type 3. You need to adjust your attitude and pocketbook using the following parameters:

First: get used to the fact that cheap Beetle parts won't work. News flash: It's not a Beetle! Buy the right stuff, do it once, and do it right. You'll be glad you did.

Second: Yeah, the right stuff is "expensive". BUT- Be happy that you're not in love with a classic Porsche or Mercedes! :)

Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:40 pm

Tram wrote: Dirtsniffer wrote: I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks

Look- you've got a Type 3. You need to adjust your attitude and pocketbook using the following parameters:

First: get used to the fact that cheap Beetle parts won't work. News flash: It's not a Beetle! Buy the right stuff, do it once, and do it right. You'll be glad you did.

Second: Yeah, the right stuff is "expensive". BUT- Be happy that you're not in love with a classic Porsche or Mercedes! :)

Or own a T-34 Ghia. :shock:

Thu Sep 26, 2013 8:46 pm

I'd be happier with a old Porsche, how could you be less happy with one?

Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:28 am

vlad01 wrote: I'd be happier with a old Porsche, how could you be less happy with one?

Having to insure it, or buy parts for it. :shock: Both are really expensive.