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Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:53 am

KTPhil wrote: Yes, that will do until you convert it back to FI.

;-)

Only if you help convince max to sell me his ms.

Wed Oct 23, 2013 4:59 pm

one4house wrote: As I was replaying last night's adventure I thought about the vacuum line that needs to go to the automatic transmission. I do not believe that it was hooked up to anything when we took the engine out.

Can I just tee into the carb balancing tube to actuate this vacuum module? That would be manifold vacuum below the carb, so I am thinking this would work. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Yup, that's where I connected mine, on my old 70 Square. It'll work, but keep in mind that the Vacuum Modulator should be adjusted to the carbs. In fact VW offered a carb version of the VM, but finding 1 in the USA might be difficult. Some guys have reported that there wasn't enough vacuum being generated for it to work correctly, so keep that in mind. They were probably using the FI unit, instead of a carbed one. You want the 003 325 391 VM, with no letter or colored stripe on it (yellow was for up to 71 (A), and brown was for 72 & 73 (B), in case anyone's wondering).

Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:49 pm

It's alive!

This afternoon we finally got everything buttoned up. I also got my vacuum line teed off for shifting sake. We did a little tuning and found out she was almost 2 quarts low on transmission fluid. I still need to bleed the brakes also...

My wife got home and I excitedly offered her a ride in the new car. That is when this happened....

The only good part about it was that it happened 3 doors down from our house. It could've happened miles away. The crazy thing is, how in the hell did that happen? Someone must've been working on it and forgot to tighten any of them. We did nothing to the axles or transmission. Oh well. Easy fix. Just a little crazy.

Here are a couple of pictures of the final install.

Fri Oct 25, 2013 9:12 am

Tomorrow we start back up again. I had to take a couple of days off from messing with it. My old knees started yelling, and the wife likes me to hang around inside from time to time.

On the list for Saturday is swapping brake parts from my donor car, bleeding the brakes, changing the tie rod ends and trying to get her 100% road worthy.

Next week, if all goes well, will be VIN verification, new tires , titling and cruising. That is the part I want to do.

We might also drop the front end 1 notch wile we have some parts off for doing the brakes. We will see how motivated we are after all of the work.

Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:09 am

Great progress bro :D
Kinda crazy how that axle pop'd out on you :?

Sat Oct 26, 2013 5:45 pm

Today I got her on the road. That opened up a whole different set of problems. I cant tell if I have an ignition or fuel problem, but she likes to run for a bit and then lose power till her death. I am kind of stumped.

I think I am going to start with a general tune up. We will see where we go from there. It is the oddest loss of power I have seen in a long time.

I did swap fuel pumps from one engine to the other, but the problem is still there. I have a full tank of new fuel. I also have 2 fuel filters, so I should not have a problem with the gas.......

Who knows. Old cars have odd tricks.

She does look good even if she did strand the wife and I on the way home.

Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:33 am

I think I may have found my fuel delivery issue. One thing to remember is that this is a duel carb setup.

Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:33 am

And yes, that is a collection of 3 fuel filters

Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:19 pm

And a 30psi FI fuel pump!

Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:32 pm

one4house wrote: I think I may have found my fuel delivery issue. One thing to remember is that this is a duel carb setup.

I'll tell you 1 thing, it's not just all of the fuel filters. It's that you still have the old fuel injection fuel pump, and the fuel dampener and other stuff related to the FI system still plumbed into the fuel system.

How much fuel is in the fuel tank? Just asking (because you'll need to drain it), because personally I'd strip ALL of that crap out of there, then 1st I'd plug the return to the fuel tank outlet at the fuel tank (the 1 without the nut) and I'd use a short piece of hose a bolt that fits tight in the hose, and 2 clamps. Then I'd run a new hose from the tank outlet directly to the chassis pipe on the left side of the car. Back by the trans (where the rubber hose exits the pan), I'd put a clean filter there, and call it good. That would clean up the entire system leading to the new mechanical fuel pump.
On carbed cars, you only need the 1 hose from the fuel tank. And with a mechanical pump, you want to get rid of anything in that line from front to rear.

Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:57 pm

Bobnotch wrote: one4house wrote: I think I may have found my fuel delivery issue. One thing to remember is that this is a duel carb setup.

I'll tell you 1 thing, it's not just all of the fuel filters. It's that you still have the old fuel injection fuel pump, and the fuel dampener and other stuff related to the FI system still plumbed into the fuel system.

How much fuel is in the fuel tank? Just asking (because you'll need to drain it), because personally I'd strip ALL of that crap out of there, then 1st I'd plug the return to the fuel tank outlet at the fuel tank (the 1 without the nut) and I'd use a short piece of hose a bolt that fits tight in the hose, and 2 clamps. Then I'd run a new hose from the tank outlet directly to the chassis pipe on the left side of the car. Back by the trans (where the rubber hose exits the pan), I'd put a clean filter there, and call it good. That would clean up the entire system leading to the new mechanical fuel pump.
On carbed cars, you only need the 1 hose from the fuel tank. And with a mechanical pump, you want to get rid of anything in that line from front to rear.

You and I think on the same brain. The only difference is that I put my fuel filter right by the outlet of the tank. I don't like filters out back by the engine.

I also used a metal single direction filter. I will snap a picture when I am under there again.

Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:28 pm

I forget to mention that she's a runner. I took her on a 40 mile drive today. I even got her up to 70 on the highway. These things ride great. I have only had type 1's up till now.

I am happy as a pig in shit. :-)

Sun Oct 27, 2013 5:48 pm

one4house wrote:
You and I think on the same brain. The only difference is that I put my fuel filter right by the outlet of the tank. I don't like filters out back by the engine.

I also used a metal single direction filter. I will snap a picture when I am under there again.

I put it in the rear, in case the steel line in the tunnel has any crap or rust flakes in it. I've seen enough of that junk clog a jet, and even mess up a mechanical fuel pump. This is especially important IF the car has a cracked overflow vent hose, as all that dirt and water has to go somewhere. :roll:

Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:12 pm

Stance correction initiated! I dropped her down 1 outside spline on the front this evening. That is easy as pie.

No more nose in the air.

Whew.

Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:16 pm

Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:29 am

one4house wrote: Stance correction initiated! I dropped her down 1 outside spline on the front this evening. That is easy as pie.

No more nose in the air.

Whew.

I hope you re-set the toe in after you were done. If not, you'll be eating tires, and have an ill handling car.

Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:41 am

Bobnotch wrote: one4house wrote: Stance correction initiated! I dropped her down 1 outside spline on the front this evening. That is easy as pie.

No more nose in the air.

Whew.

I hope you re-set the toe in after you were done. If not, you'll be eating tires, and have an ill handling car. .

I understand that when you drop a car you are changing the geometry and therefore need to get the alignment corrected. I have been at this a long time. (6 different type 1's over 20 something years.)

I'm only new to type 3's. Not to VW or cars in general. Thanks for looking out though.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 5:25 pm

HOw in the hell is this new rear hatch seal SUPPOSED to go in? I want to make sure I am putting it in right before I get to gluing it.

I got # 43 from ISP. It has a very small lip, but I cant figure the proper way. I have driven with it in 3 different ways, and it leaks worse than it did with the aftermarket seal.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 6:34 pm

Here is what I have right now. I still have not glued because I wanted to make sure that it is going on correct before I make it permanent.

I even have the secondary seal installed above the hatch seal.

I do have a lead on a stock exhaust. I hope that works out. I am thinking that will be the final deal makes for getting rid of the fumes.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:27 pm

one4house wrote: Here is what I have right now. I still have not glued because I wanted to make sure that it is going on correct before I make it permanent.

Yes, that's correct. On Squares, VW put the seal ends at the bottom. This helps direct water out of the channel, and not into the car.