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Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:40 am

OK, I'm going to ask this question a little differently (see this link) :
There's a slow seep along part of the crankcase seam - where the halves go together. Needless to say, I have zero desire or intention to do a full engine tear-down just to seal this leak. Short of slathering JB Weld along part of seam, where the oil oozes out, what are some other options? I considered putting some of my fave boat caulk on the joint, but I don't think it's all that good with oil or high heat.

We're about to hit the road for a loop around the SE US, so I'd really like to stop this leak before we leave. It's not dropping the oil level appreciably, but we do get an oil film on the back of the Westy. Not Good.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:44 am

You know what should be done, but I would not let oil spots collecting on the rear keep me from my trip. Everything collects there anyhow. For your patch to work, you need to really get it clean and dry. I think you'd have better luck with something like Honda Bond or Toyota Bond. It will remain flexible which you need since there is some expansion going on and would be removable when the time comes. These are the sealers manufacturers use for oil pans timing covers etc. I think even VW has one now. Bummer, but bring some extra qts of oil, and a bucket with some soap. You should be fine.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:54 am

Honda (or Toyota or VW) Bond? I've never heard of it (them). I assume I need to head to the appropriate parts counter to get some. There's nothing equivalent at the FLAPS?

BTW, we'll be stopping in Wellington, FL. Maybe we should stop by and let you apply the needed glop. :wink:

Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:42 am

That is sort of a trade nickname. Here is a picture of the Toyota stuff.

Most of the OE manufacturers use something similar to the above. This stuff sticks. You could try some of the silicone sealers in the aftermarket, but when we want something to stick, adhere, seal, we use this Toyota stuff. I would not use it on a part that needed to be removed as part of a regular service like a valve cover.
You will probably just get frustrated, waste time and still have a drip. My custom oil pan has a weap. I need to remove it and weld that section again. Just have not got around to it. Between that and the breather exiting to atmosphere, I get a drops accumulating on the rear. Gives it character. Weather is getting nice now.

The image is not posting right.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:49 am

It is tough to seal a leak working from the outside.

An alternative I have seen used is to fashion a simple bracket that holds some absorbent material against the source of the leak -- the material is changed from time to time.

One set-up I saw used a well-known feminine hygiene product in a suitably shaped bracket.

You'll still have the leak but should eliminate the oil film on the hatch and rear window.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:31 pm

This is a GoWesty 2.2L engine. It'd be nice to think we could just motor over to the "left coast" and say "your engine leaks, fixit." Unfortunately the warranty has expired.

The idea of clamping a pad in place has a certain amount of appeal. As it is now, we put a so-called "diaper" (AKA "pig pad") or oil absorbent sheet under the engine when we park in our garage. But toting them under way, and keeping them in place when the wind comes up? Not so good. And there's still that darn oil film in back. Hmmm... back to that pad???

I'll give the Toyota bond a try in hopes it works - even a blind squirrel finds an acorn now and then.

Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:35 pm

Hit that area with some carb or brake cleaner, then rough it up with
sandpaper...give your glue something to grip on to. Good luck...

Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:06 pm

Thanks - I'm gonna need it. [/LOL]

Fri Nov 01, 2013 1:33 am

Are you using synthetic oil?

Just an idea but you might find that switching to Dino oil could stop the leaking. Something about the size of the "molecules" or something, apparently synthetics are smaller and more likely to find their way out.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:55 am

Clean it, degrease it, and dry it the best you can, put a bead of "right stuff" on you finger and push it into the seam leaving a layer on top of the seam, let it set up and see what that does.

Andrew-

Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:06 am

Hmmm... In fact, there is Mobil 1 in the engine. The leak, however, goes back to having "dino" oil in it.

Dry, degrease, push sounds like 3/4 of a plan. The remaining 1/4? Wish real hard that it works. :wink:

Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:31 am

RBEmerson wrote: Hmmm... In fact, there is Mobil 1 in the engine. The leak, however, goes back to having "dino" oil in it.

Dry, degrease, push sounds like 3/4 of a plan. The remaining 1/4? Wish real hard that it works. :wink:

Sponge, soap and a bucket. Most state parks have a dump station as you leave. You need to fill up with water every few days usually. We don't travel with the water tank full. They have a hose and you can quickly soap up the back and rinse it and you are on your way. If you stay on top of the level, it won't leave you stranded.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:57 am

I would jsut clean it and carry around some oil sorbent pads in a cat litter bucket.

When the engine comes apart, that is the time to use a better sealant on the case halves.

More common for them to leak from the pushrod tube seals or the valve covers though. Make sure that is OK.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:26 am

Randy in Maine wrote:

When the engine comes apart, that is the time to use a better sealant on the case halves.

Agreed.

An exterior bead of anything will be a temp solution.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:55 am

a2d2 wrote: Are you using synthetic oil?

Just an idea but you might find that switching to Dino oil could stop the leaking. Something about the size of the "molecules" or something, apparently synthetics are smaller and more likely to find their way out.

If you compare a 5w30 synthetic to a 30wt dino oil you will likely find the synthetic will leak more readily, think circa 1970. However, if you compare a 5w30 synthetic to a 5w30 dino, as is common today, you aren't going to see that much difference. A 5w30 dino uses a 5wt base stock to build on after all.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 12:49 pm

Randy in Maine wrote: I would jsut clean it and carry around some oil sorbent pads in a cat litter bucket.

When the engine comes apart, that is the time to use a better sealant on the case halves.

More common for them to leak from the pushrod tube seals or the valve covers though. Make sure that is OK.

Currently we use a cat litter pan at home. But parking in a friend's drive, even locally, let alone on a road trip, with even just a "pig pad"? Nah.

I went over the pushrod tubes and replaced the valve cover gaskets (driver side gasket had a slow leak). No issues there now.The problem is that pesky crankcase seam. The engine only has 20K on it, so a tear down isn't likely any time soon. So temp fixits are about all I've got left.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 1:02 pm

How are you sure the leak is coming from the case seam? That is very uncommon. Usually it is from elsewhere and follows the contour of the alum to collect right at the bottom. If at the front of the engine I would suspect oil galley plug or flywheel seal. Do you have pictures? I would not leave on a trip with an unexplained leak

Fri Nov 01, 2013 4:44 pm

jberger wrote: How are you sure the leak is coming from the case seam? That is very uncommon. Usually it is from elsewhere and follows the contour of the alum to collect right at the bottom. If at the front of the engine I would suspect oil galley plug or flywheel seal. Do you have pictures? I would not leave on a trip with an unexplained leak
ditto that many other oil leaks appear as seam leaks. a seam leak is rare, and would usually start right away after rebuild. suspect a leak source elsewhere, main seal, pulley seal, oil pump area, etc..

also beware of 5W-30 oil as recommended above, this oil is too thin for the Vanagon unless you use it in below freezing conditions, factory manual states 5W-30 has a temperature range of about 15F to -20F. (-8C to -28C approx.)
if you use these thinner oils outside the factory recommended temperature ranges you may have very low oil pressure.

I had tried it once, (lower weight multivis synthetic) and my gages showed problems. on a steep grade, which heated up the motor more, the pressure got so low as to trigger the warning system. I dumped that crap and put back in the factory recommended oil and all was fine.

stick with factory recommendations for oil weights. It makes no matter if synthetic or regular oil is used.
Your van will not benefit from the lower weight oils that claim they increase gas mileage, instead you risk harming the motor using them.

if the leak is not massive, and not effecting the clutch (flywheel seal) don't hesitate to go on the trip, just make sure you frequently check oil level, keep it topped off. make sure your oil pressure warning system is functional and ideally get an oil pressure gage. also carry a oil tray to catch drips if you park in a sensitive area, like a friends clean driveway, or such. don't want to leave stains!

Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:39 pm

At this point, after giving the crankcase a good scrubbing and watching things happen, the seam appears to be the prime culprit. That said, I have wondered about seals, etc., too.

Oil loss was immeasurable after an oil change followed by a recent 1400 mile trip over everything from the interstates to windy back roads and dead level to pulling 10% grades. In general, this is more of an annoyance than an outright "something's broke".

I put Mobil 1 15W-50 in when I changed the oil. I don't think I'd go to 5W-anything unless it was darn cold out. Like cold enough to need a block heater when parked overnight.

Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:34 pm

RBEmerson wrote: At this point, after giving the crankcase a good scrubbing and watching things happen, the seam appears to be the prime culprit. That said, I have wondered about seals, etc., too.

Oil loss was immeasurable after an oil change followed by a recent 1400 mile trip over everything from the interstates to windy back roads and dead level to pulling 10% grades. In general, this is more of an annoyance than an outright "something's broke".

I put Mobil 1 15W-50 in when I changed the oil. I don't think I'd go to 5W-anything unless it was darn cold out. Like cold enough to need a block heater when parked overnight.

that mobil 1 15w-50 is pretty good oil. and will cover a wide temperature range so long as you ain't doing an artic trip!