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Fri Nov 08, 2013 1:03 am

As the Poll states, who makes the best, most reliable Fuel Pump that is Mechanical for the Type 1 Case?

Ran into an issue, not 100% sold on who makes the best Mechanical Fuel Pump as of now, for the way it sounds, Quaility Control has lapsed with the Only 2 that I know of over the past few years...

So, now wondering why I have gone through 2 Bocars and Now 2 Brosals...

Tolerances seam fine dealing with the Push Rod, Correct Push Rod length, Plus Fuel Pump Block(Riser/Guide) is not warn causing unusual latteral play in Push Rod.

So what else could it be? Fuel Pressure is at about 2.7 PSI.......

So, who makes the best mechanical Fuel Pump for these Puppies to see if that can narrow it down to another culpret.. Had one pump die over night when the Bitch was sleeping,lol.... RB

Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:53 am

Bocar with C clips.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Upright-Engine-w-Alternator-p/113-127-025g.htm

Sun Nov 24, 2013 1:40 pm

i got a,chinese crap lasted 2yrs need to go replace one now.

Sun Nov 24, 2013 2:06 pm

I only use electric fuel pumps.

Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:12 pm

Rebuildable original VW pump.

Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:14 pm

Q-Dog, do you know the typical life span of the above rebuildable fuel pump, have one I have been saving and wonder how it holds up in comparison to the "new" production non-rebuildable ones by both Brosal and Bocar? Been going through them is all on a new build and all is correct with there set-ups... RB

Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:36 pm

what kits are being used for the VW pumps these days? I remember not so long ago the WW kits were having problems and didnt have everything you needed.

Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:36 pm

Pierburg is quality stuff, the poll should have stock VW as an option.

Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:48 pm

I am not that dated, who built them, OEM VW or like Bosch from the Day, or what became Bosch? Did not have isssues in the 80's with any VW's, have a "new" motor since '07ish w/ no issues, and now issues this year w/another build, and it checks out as fine or the same as past motors and what nots.....RB

Mon Nov 25, 2013 12:39 pm

RailBoy wrote: Q-Dog, do you know the typical life span of the above rebuildable fuel pump, have one I have been saving and wonder how it holds up in comparison to the "new" production non-rebuildable ones by both Brosal and Bocar? Been going through them is all on a new build and all is correct with there set-ups... RB

Well, I had 299,000 miles on my convertible when I tore it down to start the restoration, and it still had the original fuel pump. I know that I personally rebuilt the pump on that engine twice.

I also run that pump on my buggy. Just rebuilt that one at the end of September because it started leaking and stopped pumping when the engine got warmed up.

I have a couple more in a box that I figure will last me for as long as I can find rebuild kits for them.

Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:21 pm

I agree the stock pump is nice for sure. Built in screen filter.

Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:03 pm

It is true that eventually everything wears out, but of the several OE type pumps I had none of them ever did. I gave away the last one a few weeks ago.
If the carter rotary only costs 20 more than the rebuild kit......then I'll spend the 20$

You said you have one of the rebuildable fuel pumps...... does it work?? Maybe it's fine .....but it's so old your afraid to run it?? :lol:

Tue Nov 26, 2013 12:00 am

Just gots to dig it out now and get a kit for it, get out the buffer and do it up.. Mean, like 20 years ago there was a rumor you could not keep one of the rebuldable ones together to save your life, guess things have changed, again... RB

Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:55 pm

I have a VW Trike with a bocar 34 pict 3 and svda. The fuel pump came with a brazil fuel pump. Get a low pressure fuel gauge. I bought one at NAPA for $15.00 and check the pressure. Don't buy the kit just buy 2 feet of fuel hose , 6 clamps and a fuel filter and tee. The correct pressure is 1.5 to 3.5 and no more than 2.8 @3000 rpm. The same pressure at idle is where will be at 3000rpm if your pump is good. Observation was an increase in pressure of 1 psi after turning off engine. The heat from the engine causes a pressure rise of 1 to 2 psi depending on how hot the weather temps are. Flooding after warm up during restart with a fresh smell of gas. The Fix, Grind the top of the push rod to lower pressure to 1.5 psi. If you have 3.5 it will rise to 4.5 to 6psi after you turn off the engine. You will smell fresh gas and think your carb is leaking. Also it will run good cold but start stumbling after warm up. The engine requires less fuel when warm and pressure at 3.5 psi will surly flood your engine and damage your carb float needle and foul your plugs. Another tip off is stumbling right after going over bumps. The carb float will not hold back the needle and extra gas will spill over and surge past the needle causing all sorts of problems and eventually ruin the engine. The Brazilian pump I have has a nylon lever that the push rod moves up on. It will not break if the push rod is to long. After examining the lever in the pump I saw it was being smashed on pretty hard with mares on the lever. My fuel pump pressure was 4.6 psi and it was causing so many problems. I had to grind 3/16" off the top to drop the pressure to 1.5. When I turn off the engine the pressure rises to 2.75psi. Shoot for 1.5 psi the pump is more for vacuum to suck fuel from the tank after it reaches the pump 1.5 is plenty. All the problems above mentioned were corrected with the adjustment of the fuel pressure. I hope this helps

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