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Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:26 am

Starting this thread to help document the refresh of my 65 SC. In doing this I hope to gain further insight threw your comments and suggestions along the way.

History:
1965 SIngle Cab, one owner with 22,000 original miles and original logos from the Lindy advertising agency.

This SC is surprisingly straight and unmolested specimen, yet it does have maintenance issues. Most of the things are just pure and simple neglect. The truck was in Illinios till a few years ago when the owner brought it to Colorado when he retired. The last time it was on te road was 83.

Acquiring the truck was a year long dance with the PO who luckily lives in my neighborhood. I feel blessed to say the least in having been given the opportunity to own her.

Please meet Lindy my SC

Engine is out and already stripped down to a long block

The plan is to reseal the engine.. This will include new pushrod tubes and seals, rear main, front crank seal, gaskets to re-mate fuel pump and generator stand to longblock, oil cooler seal.

I have some purple power to degrease the longblock and components. All cooling tins, pulleys to be powder coated 60% gloss black. The current oil cooler will be tested cleaned and repainted. It has a empi exhaust currently which I plan to upgrade to a Vintage speed at some point. The empi exhaust is newer and just needs a repaint to make it presentable.

The transmission and reduction boxes are removed and I started te process of degreasing, and wire wheeling any corrosion. The axles and boxes were ten treated with POr-15 metal ready rust inhibitor. The tranny, axles and boxes are going to be inspected and resealed.

As you can see I wire wheeled the transmission. It was covered in seepage and flaking old black paint. I plan to keep it O natural at this point.

After the axles and boxes are inspected and sealed I plan to paint them with POR-15. If anyone has examples of there boxes painted with this product it would be helpful. Input on pros and cons also helpful?

Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:05 am

I wouldn't paint the transaxle with por15 since it is kinda thick paint and probably won't let heat out of the tranny

I would just do a few thin coats of hi-heat black paint like the factory did

Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:01 am

joe56vw wrote: I wouldn't paint the transaxle with por15 since it is kinda thick paint and probably won't let heat out of the tranny

I would just do a few thin coats of hi-heat black paint like the factory did

Just to clarify the transmission will not get painted, just the reduction boxes. I'm leaning towards POR-15 the reduction boxes as they were rusted and wish to stop it as best as possible.

Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:04 am

curtis4085 wrote: joe56vw wrote: I wouldn't paint the transaxle with por15 since it is kinda thick paint and probably won't let heat out of the tranny

I would just do a few thin coats of hi-heat black paint like the factory did

Just to clarify the transmission will not get painted, just the reduction boxes. I'm leaning towards POR-15 the reduction boxes as they were rusted and wish to stop it as best as possible.

They get hot also just like the tranny does

Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:56 am

Very cool logoed Singlecab !!! I like the rack set up. Is the truck a dual chester ?? How about some interior pics too, please. :lol:

Mon Nov 11, 2013 2:24 pm

Once, I used a small sponge brush to coat the RGB cases with POR-15. A bit of it came off of one small depressed area like tape because it was not clean enough. POR-15 works great as long as the metal is clean and somewhat rough. I think that their marine clean and metal ready are ripoffs so I clean the metal with wax and grease remover and scuff it up with sandpaper. It sticks to non-scaly rust because it is naturally rough. Remember to scoop the POR-15 out of its can with a clean scooper and put it in a container for use. If there is any left in the can, put plastic wrap over the top of the can, then tap on the lid, otherwise, any POR-15 on the top edge will glue the lid to the can. Also, store the can in a refrigerator and it will take longer for it to spoil. Make sure that your skin is covered so POR-15 does not get on it.

Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:28 pm

I wouldn't use Por 15 on your axle tubes either. I mean they aren't gonna rust through anytime soon. They will most likely outlast you. Just clean them up and get some black in a spray can. I really like the Rustoleum Paint & Primer in one.

Mon Nov 11, 2013 5:40 pm

Looks nice! but just so you know with the extent you have cleaned that transaxle bare oxidation will develop on the aluminum alloy. Its not like typical "rust" but rather a flaky white substance. But it looks nasty. Id put something over it the tubes and the RGB's you don't have to go crazy protective but something will be nice!

Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:24 pm

That's a lot on wire wheeling done there. How many porcupine quills are still in you?

Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:12 pm

POR-15 would work on real clean RGB cases and seal the rust but I agree that things like axle tubes should be cleaned and scuffed up, and a rattle can paint sprayed over them. My favorite paint for things like transaxles, cooling tin, shift levers, etc. is plasti-kote engine enamel. Where ever I have used it, it has lasted. The only trouble is finding a store that stocks it. It can be ordered, though.

Tue Nov 12, 2013 2:30 am

That is the coolest rack I've seen on a single cab.nice score.

Tue Nov 12, 2013 7:46 am

Campy thanks for the info. I have used lots of POR-15 on my other buses. Have done mostly undercarriage but have also had great results on floors and beams. I always clean and treat things very well before applying top coat.

Just love how bullet proof this stuff is.

69VWCarl thank you for the heads up. I am thinking of using some Joe Gibbs product to preserve and protect. This is the second tranny I have done this too.

BarryL you know it!! When ever I wire wheel I put on multiple layers. Running a wire wheel on a grinder at 30,000 RPMs are way to fast for the wire wheel to stay together. This time I ended up with couple stuck in my arm and inner thigh :shock: I still have some fragments in my forearm from doing the undercarriage on my 79. No pain no gain.

DustinB I'm torn. I love the rack but a part of me wants to remove it. Either way I plan to keep it for the next guy as its pretty unique.

Thanks to everyone for your input, keep it coming.

Tue Nov 12, 2013 10:31 am

Don't get POR15 in the threads of the filler and drain plugs. Not sure how to avoid it, but...

Tue Nov 12, 2013 12:52 pm

When I did an underbody on up restoration of my 1963 camper some 13 years ago, I had painted the underbody and wheel wells grey. A few years later, I decided that I wanted there to be more protection so I cleaned everything with wax and grease remover, scuffed the paint up so the grey POR-15 would stick, and coated the paint with it. I think that I used several sponge brushes. I, also, coated the top of the front floor. The POR-15 flowed really well but it is shinier than the paint was. I am still driving the bus and none of it has come off. Last year, I did the same thing to my 1959 double door: I put grey POR-15 over the underbody and wheel wells. This time, I did not paint it first, though. I had a shield over my face and my head and body covered when I did it (very important).
Regarding wire wheels, the way to go is to put a twisted wire wheel on an angle grinder.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:18 am

Campy wrote: When I did an underbody on up restoration of my 1963 camper some 13 years ago, I had painted the underbody and wheel wells grey. A few years later, I decided that I wanted there to be more protection so I cleaned everything with wax and grease remover, scuffed the paint up so the grey POR-15 would stick, and coated the paint with it. I think that I used several sponge brushes. I, also, coated the top of the front floor. The POR-15 flowed really well but it is shinier than the paint was. I am still driving the bus and none of it has come off. Last year, I did the same thing to my 1959 double door: I put grey POR-15 over the underbody and wheel wells. This time, I did not paint it first, though. I had a shield over my face and my head and body covered when I did it (very important).
Regarding wire wheels, the way to go is to put a twisted wire wheel on an angle grinder.

Thank you for the info.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:28 am

So I've decide to just shoot the reduction boxes and axle tubes with a high temp satin black. The POR-15 I started using but it peels up in sheets very easy. And yes I filled the directions and used all of there products for cleaning and prep. Only thing I can think that may have compromised the bonding was temps may have dipped to low during cure. Had the heat on but...

Which brings me to my next question... I'm planning on wire wheeling my undercarriage. Was leaning towardsedia blasting it but fear the sand getting in places I cannot access and it holding moisture over time rusting things out from the inside.

So can those that have been down this road give me some advice on the pros an cons comparing media blasting to wire wheeling an underbody. I'm am an ing on POT-15 the undercarriage in grey. Have given thought to etch priming, epoxy and industrial paint. Hit me with the goods people.

I also have surface rust in engine bay and could use suggestions for addressing the rust and painting. My first thought is same as above wire wheel either POr-15 prime and paint. Or just wire wheel, etch prime and paint. Am leaning towards etching and painting as POr-15 is a bear to sand any imperfections smooth.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:36 am

FWIW, I checked out and went with Zero-Rust on the bottom of my bus. I've used POR-15 as well, and like it, but from what I could discern from reading various reviews and claims, the zero-rust should last longer and protect better. Most likely it's six of one, half dozen of the other. It should be noted that the zero-rust folks recommend 2 coats. It's not as expensive to purchase as POR-15, but after 2 coats the project cost is higher.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:44 am

zozo wrote: FWIW, I checked out and went with Zero-Rust on the bottom of my bus. I've used POR-15 as well, and like it, but from what I could discern from reading various reviews and claims, the zero-rust should last longer and protect better. Most likely it's six of one, half dozen of the other. It should be noted that the zero-rust folks recommend 2 coats. It's not as expensive to purchase as POR-15, but after 2 coats the project cost is higher.

Thank you for your reply! Could you tell me how long you have had the zero rust on and how its holding up? Also do you have any pictures? I'm assuming they have a grey color, if I recall there product is semi gloss not gloss like POR-15. Although I did notice the other day you can order semi-gloss from POR.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:47 am

curtis4085 wrote: zozo wrote: FWIW, I checked out and went with Zero-Rust on the bottom of my bus. I've used POR-15 as well, and like it, but from what I could discern from reading various reviews and claims, the zero-rust should last longer and protect better. Most likely it's six of one, half dozen of the other. It should be noted that the zero-rust folks recommend 2 coats. It's not as expensive to purchase as POR-15, but after 2 coats the project cost is higher.

Thank you for your reply! Could you tell me how long you have had the zero rust on and how its holding up? Also do you have any pictures? I'm assuming they have a grey color, if I recall there product is semi gloss not gloss like POR-15. Although I did notice the other day you can order semi-gloss from POR.

I've just done it in the past few months so I can't attest to longevity and durability. I should also not that it doesn't flow out like POR-15. It's much thicker, which I'm assuming is due to the high solids content.

I wire brushed it with a twisted brush in a drill, treated with an Osoho equivalent, cleaned it up real well and let it dry for a couple days, applied red-oxide zero-rust, let it dry for a few days, then applied the gray zero-rust. The different colors make it easier to ensure spots aren't missed.

Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:14 am

zozo wrote: curtis4085 wrote: zozo wrote: FWIW, I checked out and went with Zero-Rust on the bottom of my bus. I've used POR-15 as well, and like it, but from what I could discern from reading various reviews and claims, the zero-rust should last longer and protect better. Most likely it's six of one, half dozen of the other. It should be noted that the zero-rust folks recommend 2 coats. It's not as expensive to purchase as POR-15, but after 2 coats the project cost is higher.

Thank you for your reply! Could you tell me how long you have had the zero rust on and how its holding up? Also do you have any pictures? I'm assuming they have a grey color, if I recall there product is semi gloss not gloss like POR-15. Although I did notice the other day you can order semi-gloss from POR.

I've just done it in the past few months so I can't attest to longevity and durability. I should also not that it doesn't flow out like POR-15. It's much thicker, which I'm assuming is due to the high solids content.

I wire brushed it with a twisted brush in a drill, treated with an Osoho equivalent, cleaned it up real well and let it dry for a couple days, applied red-oxide zero-rust, let it dry for a few days, then applied the gray zero-rust. The different colors make it easier to ensure spots aren't missed.

Thanks for the info. Your under carriage looks amazing!!

When you say you cleaned it up after Osho could you elaborate? Washed it with soap and water, a alcohol rinse???? Can a OSho treated surface be painted oer with out clean its powder residue off first? Thinking that may have added to my POr-15 adhesion issue. Just wanted 24hrs and top coated.