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Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:58 am

Hey everyone, ive been in an on going battle with my bug lately. I have a 74 super, 034 dist, 34pict3 carb, 1600DP engine. Im not getting the satisfying squirt everyone is talking about (insert dirty comments here). I rebuild the carb, im sure the nozzle is clean and the passage up to it. I didnt adjust anything when i took it apart, i figured the diaphram was bad because it did run. Then i cleaned my heat risers and it has barely ran since. New intake gaskets, rebuilt carb, new plugs. If i pump alot somtimes she will fire fire but run very odd, kinda hang a high RPM and eventually die, if i feather the pedal it will increase rpm some but still will eventually die. Do i just need to get the pump adjusted in right? Not to mention im trying to work on it with the temps below 0, which could make it kinda hard to start but not run like it is when it does, i hope you guys have some insite, happy thanksgiving everyone. I cant wait to start driving it, i just have to work out all the bugs (no pun intended)

Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:13 am

brendo907 wrote: I'm not getting the satisfying squirt everyone is talking about (insert dirty comments here).

Wow - you didn't even give me the opportunity !!!

Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:26 am

usually only running at a hi rpm then dying is the classic symptom of a vacuum leak...is the gasket under the carb? maybe your intake gaskets aren't sealing after removing the manifold ....doesn't take much dirt to cause the steel gaskets to not seal...did you use sealer? the manifold bolts aren't easy to tighten properly with the engine in the car....try spraying carb cleaner where they bolt to the head and see if it runs better or at all...carbs that have sat for a long time can corrode and seize up the check balls for the accelerator pump,and it still wont squirt even after a rebuild...see if you can borrow a known good carb to narrow your problems down

Thu Nov 28, 2013 11:18 am

The accelerator pump has very little to do with how the engine runs on cold start, unless it's completely inoperative. It sounds more like
your choke is not adjusted properly.

If the accel. pump is not squirting as you open the throttle, then you might have a torn diaphragm, or one of the two check balls in the circuit is frozen in place, or the checkball plug in the float chamber has popped loose.

Thu Nov 28, 2013 11:55 am

Yeah, check your balls if you're not getting a good squirt. Also a torn diaphragm can put an end to carefree squirting. \:D/

Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:40 pm

You have other issues than the accelerator pump. The accelerator is kind of a band aid for when the throttle plate is opened too quickly. There are many engines being used today that never came with an accelerator pump, yet they still run. The Briggs and Stratton engine on your mower doesn't have one, many street and dirt bikes don't have one (CV Carb), yet all of these engines will start up and run.

Since your engine does not want to run and at this point we believe it to be fuel, check to make sure that your idle jet is clean and or that the solenoid jet is clean and functioning properly.

Also, a bad condenser can mimic these same symptoms.

Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:02 am

Explain to me these balls? There is one in the idle jet where is the other one suposed to be?. New diaphram in there, my vaccume advance pot was bad and I'll have the new one in a few day, I checked all of my gaskets and they all seem in there pretty good. I didn't use any sealant on them, I read you arnt supsosed to. I'll double check my choke and make sure its set for the cold and opening and closing right.

Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:05 am

Multi69s wrote: You have other issues than the accelerator pump. The accelerator is kind of a band aid for when the throttle plate is opened too quickly. There are many engines being used today that never came with an accelerator pump, yet they still run. The Briggs and Stratton engine on your mower doesn't have one, many street and dirt bikes don't have one (CV Carb), yet all of these engines will start up and run.

Since your engine does not want to run and at this point we believe it to be fuel, check to make sure that your idle jet is clean and or that the solenoid jet is clean and functioning properly.

Also, a bad condenser can mimic these same symptoms.

The PO had bought it and he had bought points and a condesor for it but he never did the condensor and it's in the glove box, I'll swap it out and see if I get any results. I'm hoping so :) thanks so for everyone

Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:48 am

I'll give a little more background on it, I bought it, it would start up perfect but my carb and intake would ice over, I took the heat riser off, cleaned it, new intake gaskets and spark plugs. Then it wouldn't run right, I found that the vaccume advance wasn't working and waiting on that part. Front port on carb is plugged off and the port on the left side connects to the advance, I figured I had got some gunk in the carb so I ordered a rebuild kit and did that, pretty much the same running issue. I made sure spark plug wires are all connected firmly and attached to the right cylinder. I guess the good news is when it does kind of run the heat risers get hot. I'm very tempted to drop the engine out and re do all of my work but it's suposed to dip down to -35 tommorow and that's not my kind of fun being outside when it's that cold. I could wait for it to warm up, drop the engine and some how get it into my house but I'd like to avoid doing that. I would test for leaks but honestly I can't get it to run long enough to do that. I'll do the condensor and hopfully that does the trick. I might do that tommorow morning before work if I have time but if not Sunday or something when it's not completly freezing cold out. Damn I need a garage :/ any vw guys in Fairbanks Alaska that want to loan out their garage lol

Sun Dec 01, 2013 2:28 pm

not to break your chops but I'm still betting on a vacuum leak...if it ran fine till you pulled the manifold that's probably where the problem lies...go back and re-do it rather than taking more things apart and potentially causing more problems....now you don't know if you screwed something up in the carb and next you will be trying to set the timing on an engine that doesn't run...general rule of thumb,when something doesn't work its usually because of the last thing I touched

Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:14 pm

volksworld wrote: not to break your chops but I'm still betting on a vacuum leak...if it ran fine till you pulled the manifold that's probably where the problem lies...go back and re-do it rather than taking more things apart and potentially causing more problems....now you don't know if you screwed something up in the carb and next you will be trying to set the timing on an engine that doesn't run...general rule of thumb,when something doesn't work its usually because of the last thing I touched

Indeed you were right, today I noticed the port on my intake manifold unplugged. I took a look at the pics from when I bought it and it was jb welded. It must or fallen out when I cleaned the heat riser. What's this port for? I beleive I read for fuel injection models? Thanks again everyone, I'll keep you updated and hopfully fire her up today.

Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:17 pm

Just did a Google search I'm guessing California model? Sounds about right to me. Let's plug n run

Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:37 pm

That "port", just under your carb on the left side of the manifold is for a vacuum line to operate your pre-heater flap in your stock plastic air cleaner--the one that came on 1974 Supers and Standards. Living where you do, you should have a working pre-heater system in your air cleaner--with a working flap and a working air-cleaner thermostat.

If you don't have the stock plastic paper-element air cleaner, you should get one. It will use the hot air from your stove pipe to pre heat the air going into your carb (helps a lot with de-icing it). When the weather turns warm, the thermostat in the air cleaner closes off the hot air, so all you get is ambient-temperature to the carb. Actually, the thermostat opens and closes by degrees, according to the temps, so that you get the correct air temperature throughout all temperature ranges.

Tim

Tue Dec 03, 2013 4:19 pm

Tim Donahoe wrote: That "port", just under your carb on the left side of the manifold is for a vacuum line to operate your pre-heater flap in your stock plastic air cleaner--the one that came on 1974 Supers and Standards. Living where you do, you should have a working pre-heater system in your air cleaner--with a working flap and a working air-cleaner thermostat.

If you don't have the stock plastic paper-element air cleaner, you should get one. It will use the hot air from your stove pipe to pre heat the air going into your carb (helps a lot with de-icing it). When the weather turns warm, the thermostat in the air cleaner closes off the hot air, so all you get is ambient-temperature to the carb. Actually, the thermostat opens and closes by degrees, according to the temps, so that you get the correct air temperature throughout all temperature ranges.

Tim

It's not as much as a port as a hole with two bolts on either side. I do have the factory air box and the pre heater system is all there. The PO didn't have it hooked up. I'll get it running first

Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:17 pm

Oh--that's your EGR connection. I thought you had described the male end on the manifold--just under the carb.

I have that EGR port, too. The PO just screwed a plate on there with the two screws, using a gasket he had cut from automotive gasket stock.

Tim

Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:52 pm

It'll make a huge difference plugging that. The 70 I just bought was a mess and it shouldn't have run so badly - crazy idle, no power, backfiring. Before I even started it, I had cleaned the carb out (accel pump circuit was clogged), set the valves, cleaned and adjusted points, new cap, new plug wires, checked timing - plugs looked brand new, so I just cleaned and regapped. Compression check was real REAL good.

After getting it running (very badly) I drained and disposed of 7 gallons of gas of unknown age (was a little dark, but didnt stink) so it may have been OK, swapped the carb and was ready to swap distributors....when I notice this hose just hanging off the intake between plugs :oops: (Car is a single port - the egr is on the side of the intake)

Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:48 pm

Tim Donahoe wrote: Oh--that's your EGR connection. I thought you had described the male end on the manifold--just under the carb.

I have that EGR port, too. The PO just screwed a plate on there with the two screws, using a gasket he had cut from automotive gasket stock.

Tim

I used some of that JB weld metal epoxy stick stuff, it didn't specify a temp for it to set up so i figure im good in the cold. Ill mess with it tommorow, gotta finish putting some other stuff back together. And i think climb under there and check for any gas leaks, im thinking something is dripping. Would the charcoal canister lines being in bad shape cause gas to leak? i really need to just take the tank out and re do the rubber lines.

Wed Dec 04, 2013 6:06 am

What I have done for plugging these holes is find a machine screw that fits reasonably well, coat the threads with JB and then screw it in.

Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:16 pm

jb weld stuff cured well in the cold, i need to replace my fuel lines so i just ran it out of a jerry jug. First time in awhile ive heard it run somewhat right. Need to play with the carb and get it so it doesnt die on me, no fuel from accelerator pump, ill pull the nozzle and hopefully that will do it. New diaphram in there too

Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:21 pm

Your charcoal cannister lines would not leak fuel. They carry only vapor--assuming you have your expansion chamber in the trunk all hooked up and all the other lines, too. If all those lines are not hooked up properly, you shouldn't even have fuel vapor in the last line going from the charcoal cannister to the air cleaner.

Tim