TheSamba.com :: View topic - New spindles! Link pin kit experience? (PICS)

Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:17 pm

This should simplify this post. Its actually a very process which makes it very hard to describe. Once you get your hands on everything and look at this it will all make sense and you'll laugh at this thread while you re-read it.

Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:02 pm

Well, I do believe this is starting to make sense :D
My kit arrives Wednesday so I'll be giving this all a go. If I may backtrack for a tip, I understand getting the offset now (Thanks for all the amazing responses and illustrations!) I am thinking about the control arms themselves. They don't really "bolt-in" to the front beam, do they ever shift or back out? I just lubed them up and used a rubber mallet to tap them in as far as they go. But depending on that install would greatly affect creating the offset for the spindles?

Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:45 pm

When you put the torsion arms on, remove the grub screw and make sure the hole in the arm is directly over the divet in the torsion arm leaves. Thats what determines their location

Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:08 pm

Nice, makes sense now, and easy might I add!

So I'm trying to install the link pins - If you see on the spindle (joint carrier) it's as if there is a ring already pressed inside there. Is that the outter shell for the needle roller bearing? I was trying to put the full new bearing in, but it's "too large" I can't tell if that's the same piece inside. These are new welded spindles btw, anyone jumping into the thread late.

So, knock out what's inside the joint carrier on the spindle (it's painted black also)?? Or take just the inner needle bearing out and slide that in?

Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:47 pm

the metal piece around the needle bearings is the link pin bushing you can just slide the bearing out carefully and slide them into your spindles

Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:52 pm

Hot damn :)
It's ok the bearings ride on a painted/coated surface (the bushing that's already there?

I slid them in before I posted this and it seemed to fit great but want to make sure it's cool like this.

My spindles came back completely painted.

Fri Dec 06, 2013 9:53 pm

I would get some paint remover on a rag and take the paint off of the bushing surface

Fri Dec 06, 2013 9:56 pm

A soaked rag in paint thinner or carb cleaner would probably do the trick.

Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:56 am

Since you went to the expense of buying new needle bearings I'd for sure press in the new outer races which means pressing out your old (painted) races. I've just knocked the outers out with a socket and a mallet. Try to line up any grease galleys when you push in the new ones. You have to take out the zerks to press out and in if I remember correctly.

Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:58 am

BarryL wrote: Since you went to the expense of buying new needle bearings I'd for sure press in the new outer races which means pressing out your old (painted) races. I've just knocked the outers out with a socket and a mallet. Try to line up any grease galleys when you push in the new ones. You have to take out the zerks to press out and in if I remember correctly.

I like the idea of using the new ones, although it's a little more work. If the existing ones will work without any hiccup maybe that's the route to go? :) I am not familiar with zerks? Can the new ones be tapped in or is a press recommended?

Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:34 am

Zerk means the grease fitting: unscrew them. My outer races came uot without a press. I found a flat back socket and used a fibre mallet.

Seriously, don't necessarily go by me. This is just a forum post and but one of many ways, not necessarily correct.

Sat Dec 07, 2013 6:22 pm

I'm holding you reasponsoble BarryL
:twisted: ha. I like the idea of using my new ones.
But if there is no posed issues with taking the paint off
And using what's there I'll go that route.
I just don't want to dent things up or end up
At a machine shop in case they need pressing.

Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:54 pm

Its simple to press it out. Find a socket the same size as the bushing and rig it up to push the old out. I would contact your spindle provider and see if the link pin bushings were replaced. If they have been, just swap the carriers over. If not, I would highly suggest using the new ones. It'll be a pain to take it all apart if one bushing is a little over worn.

Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:02 pm

Got the old bearings out no problem. They looked like they were never replaced. Installing the new ones, put them in the freezer overnight, and heat the spindle with a torch? I did it that way on a Chevelle I had years ago. Figure it would work for this too?

Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:17 am

electronictofu wrote: Installing the new ones, put them in the freezer overnight, and heat the spindle with a torch?

Not exactly sure what the shop specs are on the interfacing surfaces but to me they "feel" like an interference fit as opposed to a pressed fit. Lightly slick up the mating surfaces and see if it will start in at room temperature. A torch would dust your pretty paint fersure.

Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:02 am

Before I had a press, I used a flat faced sledge and set the races on top where the grease galley needed to go, I then placed some flat stock on top carefully and a good "Whack", it should set in place. I then used the old race to finish putting it in its place. It was pretty easy, but a press is the way to go and a good investment. Good luck.

Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:42 pm

Awesome, thanks for all the help on this little project all.
I finished one side, It's too cold outside to finish up, plus I'm throwing the bearings in the freezer over night. The heating of spindles and freezing of bearings method worked wonders.

The first bearing I just went for it and the lip of the bearing took a TINY bit of a dent on the lip. Wondering if that should be filed down.

Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:45 am

All done!

Before bolting them on....
As I mentioned above, when I hammered in the bushings the outter lip of one of them "folded in" a tiny bit. When I pushed in the needle bearings they went in from one side but wouldn't come out the other because of the lip. They obviously don't need to come out from the other side but I want to make sure that little lip wont be riding against the pins or scraping. It turns freely and smooth, and where this little metal issue on the lip seems to lay where the plastic part of the needle bearing is, so I don't think it would pose an issue.

Good insurance to hit it with a file? Or just don't ef with it? I'm thinking it's fine as is, just a tweaker at times :roll:

Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:13 pm

If it were me, I'd carefully smooth it off.

Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:14 pm

zozo wrote: If it were me, I'd carefully smooth it off.

x2. Wont be hard either as I believe the part you dented is the bronze bushing?