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BulletBus Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:17 pm

easy e wrote: Nice bus... lucky guy.

Links below show how I'm going to hold a gas gauge in my early bus... off the steering column.
I'm going to run a Dakota Digital Cyl Head Temp gauge off the other side of the steering column (both clamped just below the turn signal switch).

Other variants available:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1538874
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=646519

Keep the updates comin'!
Cheers,
E

I love these also. And since my 53 doesn't have a dash, I will be using two of these on the steering column. I knew people would freak when I suggested a stock fuel gage, but that's how vw did it and that's how I've done it. And once the gage is in guess what? No hole! :0)

easy e Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:26 pm

BulliBill wrote: Who really needs a gauge?

Bill
Ya, I agree....it's totally a preference thing... like having a 50 year old vehicle, microwave, running water, shoes ...

Some of the primitive-ness is definitely part of their appeal.

Rich51 Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:19 pm

Well I decided not to cut a hole in the dash for the fuel guage.. I was pretty excited this morning to drive the bus out of the garage for the first time. I wanted to get some outdoor photos in the sun but the snow was starting by the time I walked over. I gave the inside a good first cleaning but will go over the floors again. As soon as today's snow melts enough and it warms up again I'll be cleaning the wheels and tires. I hope the colors are more accurate in these pictures than in the inside ones I took before.
Please let me know if I'm posting too many photos.
-Rich

















Big Bill Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:30 pm

That is a "to die for"barn find Rich. No you can never post too many pictures, keep them coming :D

Rich51 Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:18 pm

Well I finally got under the bus to take some photos. I feel kind of stupid because I knew one front jacking point was loose and was going to check the rears at a later time. I've been working on the bus in the garage for a while now and it wasn't until 2 days ago I noticed the rear jacking points were not there.

Now I know why. Both outboard side rails are also gone. The cross members for the most part end an inch or 2 from the rockers which were replaced along with some sheet metal. I think the rest of the underside looks good but am not sure if it's safe to be driving the bus like this. I'm looking for advice and also wondering how much it might cost and whether it can be repaired without wrecking the rocker panels. Whoever did the work certainly did not do it well.

I've been in contact with the original owner and she knows little about what was done other than the paint job. It was her husband's bus and was bought in Arizona and I was led to believe it had little to no rust so am a bit surprised with what I found. I'm wondering how much the value of the bus is affected.
I'll appreciate any input.
Rich













type47fan1 Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:47 pm

that will be alot of work to correct. The outriggers need to end into the inner rocker so the Inner would need to be welded to the floor and the outer rocker which would require some refinishing even if you had a spot welder for the lip.

If you are worried about the hit on value, anyone who knows what they are looking at will certainly spot the quality and will be far more concerned with what they can not see.

Someone who just wants a bus may not care.

j.pickens Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:38 pm

Wow, that's a first. Installing nice outer rockers without the inners.
That's going to take some work to sort out!

The rockers normally form a pair of boxes in parallel to the long frame rails, tied together with the floor, outriggers, side walls and roof to create a stable mechanical structure.

Without any one of these elements, you seriously compromise the integrity of the vehicle.

This is why all sunroof and double door buses had belly pans, to compensate for the structural loss.

In other words, I wouldn't drive that bus much at all until the rockers are restored.

EDragnDean Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:04 pm

Your missing the inner rockers. Normally, they would be welded in first then the outers. You could remove the jack points which looks like they have been modified, slide in the inner rocker, weld it to the existing cross braces from the back side (not correct, but to prevent removal of the outer rockers), and then weld in the new jack points, and spot weld to the bottom of the outer rockers. Little touch up for the weld burns, and good to go.

I don't see why you can't drive it as is for a period of time. The frame is still there, and the floor is supporting your pillars, etc... many busses inner/outer rockers are rusted away and still are being driven. The outer rockers will be soft and potential for easy dents, etc... so do the repair.

Z Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:06 pm

I was in the middle of a long response saying what j. said above.

I see what appears to be seams in the cargo floor, both top and bottom. I'm guessing it was a really clean bus, with rusty rockers and floors, 'fixed' by someone...less than reputable. Hard to imagine the work it took to do it that way being any easier or faster than doing it right.

Still a really nice bus, but I'd get it fixed right before I drove it much at all.

Big Bill Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:22 am

Like the other guys have said a bit of work to get it correct, but that bus is worth it. One other thing I noticed was that the rear brake line on the reduction box is missing its rubber protector in the bracket it runs thru. I think the one on the other side(passenger) is missing all together.

CaLiBus Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:27 am

EDragnDean wrote: Your missing the inner rockers. Normally, they would be welded in first then the outers. You could remove the jack points which looks like they have been modified, slide in the inner rocker, weld it to the existing cross braces from the back side (not correct, but to prevent removal of the outer rockers), and then weld in the new jack points, and spot weld to the bottom of the outer rockers. Little touch up for the weld burns, and good to go.

I don't see why you can't drive it as is for a period of time. The frame is still there, and the floor is supporting your pillars, etc... many busses inner/outer rockers are rusted away and still are being driven. The outer rockers will be soft and potential for easy dents, etc... so do the repair.

I'm with EDragendean on this one. I have seen so many busted out, rusted out inner and outer rockers on driven buses. Cargo floors are under rated how well they hold structure together. Pretty paint and white wall tires tells me he's not going to take this beauty on the beaten path anytime soon.

60vwnewengland Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:12 am

Very cool bus! I have a 1959 as well! Also, a split window bus on cape cod is a must! I'm from western ma, and my girlfriend is from you neck of the woods, Brewster! We visit the cape 2-3 times a year! We'll have to meet up and check out the your bus sometime!

I would recommend what every one else is talking about! The inner rockers must be addressed before you start trekking around in this awesome bus. I've replace mine, see photo:


It is structurally needed, please do not skip doing this body work. Here's another photo while I was fitting the pillars:


Then afterwards the outer rocker panel goes on, see this photo:


Is your passenger side have the inner rocker? Heres some photos of my replacement.




Again, awesome bus, but put some work into it before driving it around, you will not regret it! These little fixes will ensure a quick sale, if you decide to sell it.

Good luck! I'll send you a pm next time I'm on the Cape!

earlywesty Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:05 am

CaLiBus wrote: EDragnDean wrote: Your missing the inner rockers. Normally, they would be welded in first then the outers. You could remove the jack points which looks like they have been modified, slide in the inner rocker, weld it to the existing cross braces from the back side (not correct, but to prevent removal of the outer rockers), and then weld in the new jack points, and spot weld to the bottom of the outer rockers. Little touch up for the weld burns, and good to go.

I don't see why you can't drive it as is for a period of time. The frame is still there, and the floor is supporting your pillars, etc... many busses inner/outer rockers are rusted away and still are being driven. The outer rockers will be soft and potential for easy dents, etc... so do the repair.

I'm with EDragendean on this one. I have seen so many busted out, rusted out inner and outer rockers on driven buses. Cargo floors are under rated how well they hold structure together. Pretty paint and white wall tires tells me he's not going to take this beauty on the beaten path anytime soon.

I disagree with this, just because people do it doesn't make it right. These buses are engineered to have all their pieces solidly joined together. How do you know the floor is good at the pillars or hasn't also been improperly replaced? The inner rocker is an integral piece that joins all the I beams to the outer structure, pillars, I would expect not having them, particularly on both sides, would allow alot more flex on the structure/body. No the bus might not fall apart but it would make good sense to replace them, despite it being a bit of a job.

Its too bad it was done this way as it would have been less work to repair everything correctly.

Z Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:20 am

60vwnewengland wrote: Here's another photo while I was fitting the pillars:



Just realized that your B, C and D pillars (the green, curved sections attached to the inner rocker in this pic) are missing below the floor also. Just sayin'...

60vwnewengland Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:59 am

Z wrote: 60vwnewengland wrote: Here's another photo while I was fitting the pillars:



Just realized that your B, C and D pillars (the green, curved sections attached to the inner rocker in this pic) are missing below the floor also. Just sayin'...

Thanks... This was the test fit stage. Pictures were used to illustrate inner rocker integrity.

Z Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:32 am

60vwnewengland wrote: Z wrote: 60vwnewengland wrote: Here's another photo while I was fitting the pillars:



Just realized that your B, C and D pillars (the green, curved sections attached to the inner rocker in this pic) are missing below the floor also. Just sayin'...

Thanks... This was the test fit stage. Pictures were used to illustrate inner rocker integrity.

Yeah, sorry...I was referencing your pics to the OP about the pillars missing on his bus. I hadn't noticed them missing in my earlier post. Nice bus!

slow36hp Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:23 pm

CaLiBus wrote: EDragnDean wrote: Your missing the inner rockers. Normally, they would be welded in first then the outers. You could remove the jack points which looks like they have been modified, slide in the inner rocker, weld it to the existing cross braces from the back side (not correct, but to prevent removal of the outer rockers), and then weld in the new jack points, and spot weld to the bottom of the outer rockers. Little touch up for the weld burns, and good to go.

I don't see why you can't drive it as is for a period of time. The frame is still there, and the floor is supporting your pillars, etc... many busses inner/outer rockers are rusted away and still are being driven. The outer rockers will be soft and potential for easy dents, etc... so do the repair.

I'm with EDragendean on this one. I have seen so many busted out, rusted out inner and outer rockers on driven buses. Cargo floors are under rated how well they hold structure together. Pretty paint and white wall tires tells me he's not going to take this beauty on the beaten path anytime soon.
For Sunday driving and general around town with little to no payload that bus is fine. If you have the money and interest in fixing it then do so. It sucks but it isn't any real hazard for recreational use.

kombisutra Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:33 pm

I completely agree. I've rocked buses WAY more trashed than what most would even drive, and that right there? That ain't gonna' effect anything except your psyche. VERY nice bus... with a little unfinished business. 8)

EDragnDean Sun Mar 02, 2014 5:07 pm

buseric wrote: CaLiBus wrote: EDragnDean wrote: Your missing the inner rockers. Normally, they would be welded in first then the outers. You could remove the jack points which looks like they have been modified, slide in the inner rocker, weld it to the existing cross braces from the back side (not correct, but to prevent removal of the outer rockers), and then weld in the new jack points, and spot weld to the bottom of the outer rockers. Little touch up for the weld burns, and good to go.

I don't see why you can't drive it as is for a period of time. The frame is still there, and the floor is supporting your pillars, etc... many busses inner/outer rockers are rusted away and still are being driven. The outer rockers will be soft and potential for easy dents, etc... so do the repair.

I'm with EDragendean on this one. I have seen so many busted out, rusted out inner and outer rockers on driven buses. Cargo floors are under rated how well they hold structure together. Pretty paint and white wall tires tells me he's not going to take this beauty on the beaten path anytime soon.

I disagree with this, just because people do it doesn't make it right. These buses are engineered to have all their pieces solidly joined together. How do you know the floor is good at the pillars or hasn't also been improperly replaced? The inner rocker is an integral piece that joins all the I beams to the outer structure, pillars, I would expect not having them, particularly on both sides, would allow alot more flex on the structure/body. No the bus might not fall apart but it would make good sense to replace them, despite it being a bit of a job.

Its too bad it was done this way as it would have been less work to repair everything correctly.

Agreed, the repair needs to be done. The pillars to Z s point need to be explored. But.... it can be driven, or be afraid to drive it, and 20 years from now it may be another barn find.

GTV Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:10 pm

My friends DD panel is like that, no inners, only outers. As you can imagine the cargo doors are a pain in the ass to operate and are not as secure as they should be. It's also missing the outer belly pans. It goes down the road just fine though...



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