| Nate M. |
Sat Mar 27, 2021 12:24 pm |
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Are we ever really "done" with these cars?? LOL!!
Congratulations on a successful first drive!! Those of us who know what that small victory means after years of toiling away, share in celebrating your success!!
Once you get most of the critical details sewn-up and you get to really hammer down on her out Carmel Valley Road or another twisty road out there. . . That's when you really get to enjoy the ride!!
Again, Congrats buddy!! |
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| jmarkha1 |
Tue Apr 06, 2021 2:27 am |
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Amazing build - must feel good eh...
I rejoined TheSamba after a few years - my square build is 95% finished but Ive had other life stuff going on.
Last time I look at your thread - you were in the thick of metal work - looks like the hard work paid off - enjoy...
now - back to that square :-) |
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| Clatter |
Mon May 03, 2021 8:00 am |
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Back in the saddle again..
First thing to do was get an Oval out of the way..
One thing leads to another and it's clear back apart. :roll:
It got Square torsions and rear brakes, so Type 3 content, right?
Once it was back (mostly) together and driving, the Fasty came back around under the atrium.
But not without another lovely fuel puddle. :x
Oh, the joy of aftermarket things..
Looks like a tie rod might be touching the fitting at the front of the tunnel..
Putting it up on stands is quite the chore so damn low.
Just for giggles, as it was being lifted by the front mount,
The front got raised by a little and the rear by a lot.
Even with a super-high stance like this, the thing still would look OK.
So there's some justification for the rake that's likely coming..
Coming clear back apart for a torsion clocking..
Brake fluid puking everywhere, then kitty litter,
Why does he have to lie in it??
Stoked i could leave the fender on to do adjustment.
Two "clicks" up..
Rear had really settled sitting during the last month or so,
So i decided on two clicks.
(A click here is one course spline up and one fine spline down)
A click gave me a degree, so two is from 10 to 12.
Started re-doing rear decklid seal.
New Squareback hatch seal is showing most promising results;
More soft/pliable - makes bends without wrinkling.
3M adhesive remover - maybe the only way to remove gorilla snot 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Seems to not hurt paint..
Turned around, starting to come back together.
Too tired to read a torque wrench,
So we'll finish up later.
Bug O Rama is four weeks away.
And counting... 8-[ 8-[ 8-[ |
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| Max Welton |
Mon May 03, 2021 8:04 am |
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Time enough to switch to DOT 5? :lol:
Max |
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| notchboy |
Mon May 03, 2021 8:19 pm |
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| Clatter |
Tue May 04, 2021 7:22 am |
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Yesterday i mostly got pinned down at work but..
Picked up smaller front tires;
Went from 195/55 to 195/50.
Aircooled Chris was nice enough to swap me for just the cost of mount/balance.
Tried to start figuring out the whole 'waterless spray detail' routine.
Here's what i found in the old chemical cabinet.
Another rabbit hole no doubt..
Had the kid help me do final torque on spring plate bushings, axle nuts, etc.
Then noticed this weep at the front mount.
Occurred to me that i might have cut thru to oil when relocating the mount bolts here.
Maybe the original holes come through, or..?
Either way, I'm sure i didn't glue those up during assembly. :oops:
Oil out..
On the bright side, axles and shocks are out of the way already for when it comes refill time.
Will also do a fluid change, even though there's only like 8 miles on the car so far.
A few flakes from my groping around with the new shifter,
But not too bad for a guy's first tranny rebuild, right?
Will be setting aside the trans oil to sit for a few months or years.
I heard you can re-use because particles will settle out.
Same with break-in oil; I have jugs of it sitting around for the next build months from now.
Yeah,
Laugh at a guy for saving oil to re-use,
But,
Swepco 201 is like $85/gallon.. :oops: |
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| Erik G |
Tue May 04, 2021 10:09 am |
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| that gas station spray can wash/wax is great. I mentioned a black 53 oval at bugorama, it gets that spray wash exclusively. never believed in it until a guy at a gas station ambushed me with it. my buddy buys it from the manufacturer by the case |
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| eyetzr |
Tue May 04, 2021 2:43 pm |
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Love the FW1 stuff. Same deal ambushed said he would do 1/2 the hood if I could not see a difference he would do the whole car. You would think I never cleaned my car, looked great. Bought 6 cans get 2 free. Still use it on the daily driver.
P.S. Steve car looks great, rember we don't leak oil, just marking our spot. |
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| notchboy |
Tue May 04, 2021 6:14 pm |
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Erik G wrote: that gas station spray can wash/wax is great. I mentioned a black 53 oval at bugorama, it gets that spray wash exclusively. never believed in it until a guy at a gas station ambushed me with it. my buddy buys it from the manufacturer by the case
I laughed out loud. Have heard similar. :lol: :lol: 8) |
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| vintagecarleds |
Wed May 05, 2021 12:39 pm |
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Looks good. Just my .02 cents, I spent 2 years building "the leak free engine" selecting all the right sealants and prep work before hand.
Oil still seeped/weeped out.
I guess it's just a VW thing. |
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| VWporscheGT3 |
Wed May 05, 2021 2:54 pm |
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vintagecarleds wrote: Looks good. Just my .02 cents, I spent 2 years building "the leak free engine" selecting all the right sealants and prep work before hand.
Oil still seeped/weeped out.
I guess it's just a VW thing.
when in doubt... smear "The right Stuff" everywhere ... lol that stuff will seal an oil pan leak forever ... just hope it never needs to come off.... |
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| Clatter |
Wed May 05, 2021 10:24 pm |
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Heh!
That's funny you guys talking about oil leaks.
Spent the day chasing this one out..
FWIW, other than this one ooze, it looks oil-tight so far for 8 entire miles! :)
Got the jack under for support and pulled the mount.
There were two sets of holes drilled; one set i didn't use that were just plain tapped,
And the other with heli-coils that get used.
Right here this one in the middle was full of oil.
Sure doesn't look like a hole up in there.. :?
Made up a small section of M8 bolt with a slot to turn it in.
Bloobed it up with some black RTV and threaded it in.
Added some more afterwards for good measure.
Work area shot.
Filled it with some fresh 201.
LOVE this filler funnel deal that TCash gave me.
Don't miss the mess everywhere using a squeeze bottle or oil running into my armpit..
Left the mount off and looked and looked for any more ooze.
None to be found, so i RTV'ed the other bolt holes and tightened 'er up.
That turns it around for the come-back-together.
We'll give this thing every chance to be oil-tight for at least a while.
My bus only started leaving a drip or two in the last couple of years,
But it's been in there for 15+ years now, so we'll cut it some slack.
It's possible.. At least with a type 4..
Key is to tank everything - 100% free of any oil residue,
And get it glued up with no assembly oil ever touching any sealant surfaces.
And to make sure it's not a type 1, of course.. :wink: |
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| VWporscheGT3 |
Thu May 06, 2021 7:16 am |
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Time and time again , great work bro. while its perfect im sure it will be at all the shows. I look forward to seeing video and pictures of this thing driving and going places.
amazing work , you are da man. |
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| Bobnotch |
Thu May 06, 2021 3:47 pm |
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Clatter wrote: Heh!
That's funny you guys talking about oil leaks.
And to make sure it's not a type 1, of course.. :wink:
I don't know about that. The 1600 that was in my 76 Bug never leaked a drop, even when the exhaust valve head popped off number 4 cylinder and broke the cam in half on it's way to the sump (still didn't leak). Even after I rebuilt that engine, it didn't leak. But, it was clean clean inside along with all of the mating surfaces.
On my Notch, once I got the aluminum sump plate swapped back to stock, and using the stock style sump nuts, it stopped leaking. So it is possible to get a t-1 style engine to not leak oil (mines an all aluminum case w/10K miles). Russ told me they weren't supposed to leak oil, or mark their spot.
Nice work on getting your Porsche trans to stop weeping. :wink: |
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| notchboy |
Fri May 07, 2021 6:38 am |
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Bobnotch wrote: Clatter wrote: Heh!
That's funny you guys talking about oil leaks.
And to make sure it's not a type 1, of course.. :wink:
I don't know about that. The 1600 that was in my 76 Bug never leaked a drop, even when the exhaust valve head popped off number 4 cylinder and broke the cam in half on it's way to the sump (still didn't leak). Even after I rebuilt that engine, it didn't leak. But, it was clean clean inside along with all of the mating surfaces.
On my Notch, once I got the aluminum sump plate swapped back to stock, and using the stock style sump nuts, it stopped leaking. So it is possible to get a t-1 style engine to not leak oil (mines an all aluminum case w/10K miles). Russ told me they weren't supposed to leak oil, or mark their spot.
Nice work on getting your Porsche trans to stop weeping. :wink:
I do believe you have to cook the shit clean out of them. Then your rate of success is far higher. My old 64 notch had a 1776 I built. It never leaked. One of my all time fav builds. |
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| Clatter |
Fri May 07, 2021 7:35 am |
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Grr..! :evil:
Spent all of yesterday pissed off and acting like a dick..
Took me like a full hour of wrestling to stab an upper shock bolt.. ](*,)
Damon was nice enough to bring some ramps by so i could climb up under the car and also have full weight on the front suspension.
Sure as shit, the tie rod hits BOTH fuel fittings.. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
:shock:
William luckily happened by after work.
And,
Being maybe one of the best mechanics in the world,
was nice enough to look closely at all of this and give some ideas.
Here's the kind of thing only a true friend will do for you.. :lol:
Just the typical kind of stuff that sucks to always have to deal with when you go making mods.. :roll:
With the car on stands and the suspension at full droop, you would never have any idea that the rod would sit in such a different spot when at ride height..
I'm all ears if any of you have any ideas..
No, a forged 90 fitting won't clear. Check that cap.
Also remember that it's thick-wall stainless tubing, and the ends are welded on the tubing.. Plus welded to the tunnel.. :roll:
Temp solution will be to stab a stock long tie rod in.
Those Lanner super-duty tie rods are quite a bit fatter than stock.
If needed, a slight bend will be put in.
This means only one thread-width of adjustment on that long rid, and might mean a compromised alignment,
But since the left rod retains infinite adjustment, then i guess it would only be a slight slight off-center in the steering box, eh? :-k
Whatever, right? :roll:
Point it out at Sac and I'll give you a free beer!
Because long-term plans include two fittings there and an FI fuel loop,
(Plus the big tie rods)
I'm inclined to shorten the pitman arm.
That would mean also shortening the arms on the spindles in order to maintain geometry.
Would only have to be a little bit, like 1/4" or so.. :-k
Dag.. only a couple more weeks to the big show,
And there's a LOT more stuff to be done..!
Starting to be like one of those "TV reality" ( <--- oxymoron) build shows..
"Man, Chip, we gotta really kick ass in order to get this thing done befere SEMA!"
Tempers flare.. Cussing is bleeped out as a wrench gets thrown..
Cue the tense violin..
Then end with the really big/loud drum clip.
Ta-tum Tum TUM TUM!! |
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| VWporscheGT3 |
Fri May 07, 2021 7:55 am |
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Clatter wrote:
Starting to be like one of those "TV reality" ( <--- oxymoron) build shows..
"Man, Chip, we gotta really kick ass in order to get this thing done befere SEMA!"
Tempers flare.. Cussing is bleeped out as a wrench gets thrown..
We gotta get this right or we're gonna lose the shop!!!! lmfao.. im bummed about the tank bro... sorry. |
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| nogoodwithusernames |
Fri May 07, 2021 8:36 am |
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| What would happen if you cut/ground that little bit of relief into the tie rod and had a gusset or two welded onto the opposite side to retain rigidity? |
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| Mr.Duncan |
Fri May 07, 2021 9:44 am |
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Clatter wrote:
And to make sure it's not a type 1, of course.. :wink:
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| dirtslinger |
Fri May 07, 2021 10:14 am |
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Doing mostly Off-Road stuff, I have used and encountered a lot of different types of Tie-Rods.
What OD are your tie-rods? Are they tubular with a threaded bung welded to the ends, or are they thick walled tubing with the ends just threaded? Are they steel or Aluminum? |
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