nickfancher1 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 12:52 am |
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Gonna adjust the valves on a '70 Beetle this weekend. Got cork gaskets from a local VW shop. He recommended to use RTV which I have read online to absolutely not do. The VW resource says to use wheel bearing grease lightly on each side of gasket. What to do? |
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glutamodo |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:17 am |
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Me, I glue them to the valve covers. I use Permetex "Hi-Tack" normally for this, but Permetex Aviation or Permetex #2 also are good for that. Between the gasket and the head, I use nothing. Some people grease or oil the gasket there, that's OK.
-Andy |
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bossboy302 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:05 am |
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nickfancher1 wrote: The VW resource says to use wheel bearing grease lightly on each side of gasket. What to do?
This method works perfectly. |
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Cusser |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:16 am |
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I've never used sealant. I use cork only, from BAP locally. I think you're worrying too much...
If I get a gasket that droops a little at the top, then I put a little Permatex Aviation at the top center of the valve cover side. I've never had leak issues there.
If I DID choose to use anything, I'd use the Permatex only on the valve cover side.... |
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gt1953 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:09 am |
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I soak my cork gaskets in water while doing the adjustment, It swells the gaskets. Then a lil grease on both sides. Make sure your bales are correct so that the covers are tight. |
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79SuperVert |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:59 am |
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I don't use anything. Haven't had leak problems with either the rubber or the cork gaskets. At each valve adjustment I wipe everything down so all the surfaces are clean. About once a year I'll replace the gaskets with new ones. Stock valve covers and heads, and tight bales. |
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Tim Donahoe |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:32 pm |
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I'm going to test out a set of re-useable silicone ones that Wolfsburg West sells. They guarantee no leaks.
So--hey--I'll give them a shot.
Tim |
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toddb_67 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:19 pm |
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I have had my valve cover gaskets get sucked in and cause leaks. I welded tabs on mine to keep this from happening and haven't had a leak since.
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Cusser |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:56 pm |
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toddb_67 wrote: I have had my valve cover gaskets get sucked in and cause leaks. I welded tabs on mine to keep this from happening and haven't had a leak since.
I think that's a great idea ! |
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robwa10 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:50 pm |
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toddb_67 wrote: I have had my valve cover gaskets get sucked in and cause leaks. I welded tabs on mine to keep this from happening and haven't had a leak since.
Little things of beauty like this make me think, 'I really should learn to weld.' Brilliant! |
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BugMan114 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:04 pm |
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robwa10 wrote: toddb_67 wrote: I have had my valve cover gaskets get sucked in and cause leaks. I welded tabs on mine to keep this from happening and haven't had a leak since.
Little things of beauty like this make me think, 'I really should learn to weld.' Brilliant!
I knew I wasn't the only one to think of this, XD. I always thought why VW didn't do this origionally, but it later occurred to me that the gaskets they had back then most likely were complete shit like today :D
oh, and I never use anything. I just dab a bit of oil from the heads on both surfaces of the gasket, otherwise if I put them on dry, they stick to the head and valve cover, and it tears a bit off, which I have to scrape off. I've never had any leaks. Just make sure your bails are still stiff. if someone prys them off to hard (over-extends them), they loose they're tension. for me, if I can clip them on by hand, they are no good. If I don't have any extras, i'll take some vise grips and put a bend or two on each arm, which shortens it a bit making it tighter. but otherwise I just replace them. |
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nickfancher1 |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:37 pm |
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Thanks, how long should I wait before driving it? A few hours or good to go? |
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Shipwreck |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:40 pm |
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If the cover is warped you had better use some high temp permatex. |
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glutamodo |
Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:19 pm |
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The main reason I glue mine into my covers is that I started having issues many years ago when the good Sabo brand gaskets stopped being available and the replacements just were not as good. Before then I never glued them in. I've seen good and not-so-good ones in the years since... sometimes they look good enough that they'd probably be OK without doing that, but I just don't want to risk it. Also, I did blow an engine once after a valve cover sprung a leak on the freeway, and the first indication I got that this had happened was a loss of power at the same time as my oil light came on - by then it was too late, it was way overheated and nearly seized. :cry: |
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Mr.Duncan |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:24 am |
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I clean all the oil off, and install a new cork gasket dry.
No leaks.
I change them every 6k miles. ($1 per gasket) |
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Glenn |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:26 am |
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Mr.Duncan wrote: I clean all the oil off, and install a new cork gasket dry.
No leaks.
I change them every 6k miles. ($1 per gasket)
I use Permatex Aviation to "glue" them to the valve cover and apply the other side dry. I reuse them a number of oil changes and replace them maybe every 3rd or 4th time.
Never a leak. |
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Mr.Duncan |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:48 am |
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Glenn wrote: Mr.Duncan wrote: I clean all the oil off, and install a new cork gasket dry.
No leaks.
I change them every 6k miles. ($1 per gasket)
I use Permatex Aviation to "glue" them to the valve cover and apply the other side dry. I reuse them a number of oil changes and replace them maybe every 3rd or 4th time.
Never a leak.
Only reason I change mine "early" is I'm paranoid and just "for shits and giggles"
Just like how I change my oil at 2k miles.
And my trans-axle fluid at 10k miles.
I over maintenance. Lol. :roll: |
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texson |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:09 am |
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I cleaned covers well and installed new gaskets with 4 spots of high temp red silicone just to hold it to cover when removed and keep aligned for installation. Good to date. |
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davidw99 |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:35 am |
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I use the cork gaskets. I clean both metal surfaces and never use any glue or grease. Never a leak. Check them when you do a valve job. If they seem to be getting hard replace them. |
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Cusser |
Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:36 am |
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nickfancher1 wrote: Thanks, how long should I wait before driving it? A few hours or good to go?
After EVERY oil change or maintenance like this, run the engine a few minutes and check for leaks. So a few minutes. After the first "trip" check again for oil leakage on the VW and/or the ground.
A good habit is to eyeball underneath your vehicle for leakage on the ground as you approach the vehicle... |
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