TheSamba.com :: View topic - How many hours approx. to lower the rear end?

Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:42 pm

Approximately, how many hours are involved in lowering the rear end of a 71 bug?

Sun Mar 02, 2014 5:21 pm

It's a re-setting of the rear torsion bars. If you haven't done it before, you'd better plan on at least half a day. And that assumes that you've done your calculations right and get it right on the first try.

You'll need tools (if memory holds from 3 decades ago when I did this) such as angle protractor, 17mm allen wrench, 8M triple square drive wrench for the CV bolts.

It's essentially the opposite of adjusting the rear torsion bars to raise a sagging rear end, which is what I actually did then. But what I did to raise the rear of my own 1971 was to buy air-adjustable shocks rather than do the torsion bar thing; yes, likely I took the quick but coward's path....

Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:25 pm

X-2 with Cusser (the coward) :lol:

A minimum of 4 hours to do it right not including READING about it before hand.
.
Probably the hardest or time consuming part will be putting the cover plates
back on without stripping one of the bolts.

Besides all the tools and a good set of jack stands you should also replace
the inner and outer torsion arm bushings and, you also need some BABY powder to coat them

Have Fun

Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:46 pm

Theres a guy that posted his video on youtube that was lowering the back of his squareback, watch all of those first so you have a good idea what is needed.

Joey

Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:30 pm

I agree with the above time frames. Second side is easier than the first.

To make putting the plates on easier, I bought longer bolts and the hardware store. Once the long ones have brought in the plates, I switched over to the stock ones. (not my idea -- just passing it on)
I also used wratcheting straps to pull the assembly back, to free up the spring plates.

Good Luck!

Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:34 pm

Yep - I was honest about now being a coward.

The longer bolts is a good idea, I've seen that in a service manual.

Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:54 pm

Hmmm, I should start out by saying that I still haven't read how to do it. I've only looked at my bug and I think I have a pretty good idea of how it's done. I just don't have any idea of how hard it is to actually do.

I would imagine freeing up the splines will not be easy because the car is pretty stock other than what I've done to it. I'll definitely look for that video guys and decide from there if it's something I want to attempt or not.

Sun Mar 02, 2014 8:53 pm

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MeNdZCf5AzA

This is the guy, watch all 4 videos in a Row before you do anything. It's not that bad, I've done it on 2 cars now and the first time it might have taken me 2 hours.

Joey

Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:29 pm

the 3rd time will take you 1/3 of the time as the first. This is because all the nuts/bolts come off easily compared to when they hadn't been removed in 40 years. The other reason is you don't spend 1/2 the time staring at the car trying to figure out what to do next.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:01 am

Took me 5 hrs on the 68. Just be careful. Have all of the correct special tools to do the job.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:45 am

All these "special" tools are what are scaring me. Are these simple to find? I know the "star" tools to remove an IRS tranny took a little bit of looking before I actually found them. Are these tools hard to find?

Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:43 am

It's not that hard, I lowered my Bugs rear end in about 2 hours (and I hadn't done it before either). The first side took maybe 2 hours, the second side less than 1 hour.

The only "special tools" are:

1. The star tool for removing the CV bolts
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7011

2. A tool to safely help "pull" down the spring plates
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7047

3. Angle finder (to find the spring plate stock angle if you want to go back to stock)
http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html

4. Pry bar:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-2-half-inch-flat-pry-bar-2529.html

5. Simple garage jack

Mon Mar 03, 2014 11:58 am

peteandvanessa wrote: 2. A tool to safely help "pull" down the spring plates
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7047

I didn't use one of these, they weren't invented then. That stated: if I was to do the job today, I'd buy that.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 12:43 pm

All of the tools are needed. I even had to disconnect the emergency brake cable. To do that I have to remove the brake drum, to do that you need a 36mm socket as well.
Be safe.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:53 pm

Everyone seems to do this job the long and hard way with fancy tools.

admittedly I've done the job more than a couple times and all my bolts come undone nice and easy but it takes a bit over 30 mins per side with no fancy tools other than an angle finder.

Just unbolt the the spring plate, lower shock mount and the trailing arm pivot bolt.

No need to unbolt the CV joint, brake cables etc
and a length of angle bolted to the spring plate lifts it back up without having to use chains or spring plate tools.....
Been doing it that way for nearly 20 years now.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 4:18 pm

Joel, that way looks very simple to follow! I'm guessing that all I'd have to do from there would be lift the jack and it will raise the spring plate. My only concern with that is if it messes up the splines?

I know that in time, bugs tend to sag so I wouldn't want to do that and mess up the splines causing my bug to lower itself whenever it wants to :roll:

Mon Mar 03, 2014 4:43 pm

Once you jack the spring plate higher than the retaining ridge, you need to "pry" it away a little so it doesn't settle right back into place, this can be dangerous, must be careful.

And opposite upon reassembly.

I believe that the "one" time I've done this, I put the jack directly under the spring plate, this way looks better, easier, and safer.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:11 pm

[quote="LeninCas"]Joel, My only concern with that is if it messes up the splines?
quote]

I don't think you will have a problem with messing up the splines, it will be firmly in the hole until you have "unloaded" the tension, then the torsion bar will pull out pretty easily.

Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:13 pm

Cusser wrote:
I believe that the "one" time I've done this, I put the jack directly under the spring plate, this way looks better, easier, and safer.

I doubt that.
Just putting the jack straight under the spring plates will lift the whole car due to torsion bar tension.

Thats why its necessery to either chain the jack to the car or use the threaded spring plate tool.......or use my angle iron method

Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:47 pm

NOW I am confused. I figured the weight of the car would allow the spring plate to move up a notch.

I thought the angle iron method was to measure the angle of the spring plate? That way I can compare them and make sure they are both the same level.

Cusser: What you are saying makes sense to me but I am not sure where I will have to "pry" it. I thought I would hear a "click" to indicate to me that the spring plate has moved up a notch. I'm really doing this all on imagination, I have absolutely no idea. I just want to make sure I have a good idea first and then watch the videos to confirm what I think. That way, I will feel confident once I go ahead and do it.