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  View original topic: Lizard Skin Sprayable Sound Deadener and Thermal Insulation Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
ShootingFish Sat Apr 05, 2014 12:48 pm

How are you prepping the surfaces for spaying?

I have pulled the galley out on the left side and have removed all of the fiberglass insulation but that was glued into position and I am wondering about how to deal with all of that mess.

Thanks in advance!

insyncro Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:14 am

Step 2 Prep has been added to the beginning of the thread.

rmcd Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:26 am

Hi Dylan. Thanks for taking the time to post. Writing these blurbs take a lot of time and effort. I do appreciate it!

You said .....
"Prep Tools:

Most of the sprayable product vendors will have nylon bristled brushes to use with an angle grinder to prep the painted surfaces.
This attachment works great for taking the clearcoat off and leaving some scratches for better adhesion. "

Do you use the filament cup on the leftover insulation fur and glue? Tia.

insyncro Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:33 am

rmcd wrote: Hi Dylan. Thanks for taking the time to post. Writing these blurbs take a lot of time and effort. I do appreciate it!

Do you use the filament cup on the leftover insulation fur and glue? Tia.

80 sandpaper on the 5" sander.

The nylon brush is for paint in great condition with a gloss finish on it still.
Most of these processes like sound deadening and trucked lining are done to NEW automobiles.
I am being a realist.
Our vans are old.
Get down and dirty with them if you want the best adhesion.
Don't be afraid to rough them up.

Paint if you feel it, but not necessary.
Just let it dry and cure before the next layer.

SyncroScott Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:38 pm

Hey Dylan and/or Badassdubs (or anyone else who wants to chime in)

Did you remove the factory material that covers the van floor above the engine compartment and tank/trans area before coating with new materials?

What is that stuff anyway? I assume it is sound heat or insulation?

Before applying a sound control material and/or bed-liner to my interior floor, I'd like to remove this stuff; for one, to see if there is any rust issues underneath it, but also just to give the new material something better to adhere to. Is there any reason I should NOT remove it?

Thanks!
-Scott

insyncro Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:48 pm

Yes, I like to get the chassis down to the metal.
Removing the factory sound deadening pads can be challenging sometimes, other time they come off easily.
I remove them when it is freezing cold easily.
During the warmer times they are pliable and put up more of a fight.

I would love to hear that you can spray right over it, never tried it.

TheMonk Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:38 pm

I have carried out a similar process on my bus, however not using Lizard Skin but it's active ingredients, ceramic microspheres. I looked at few sites which steered me towards a company in the US called Hytech (no association with me at all).

I purchased the actual microspheres themselves, had them posted to Australia and mixed them with a paint of my choice ( if you do this wear a breathing mask, microspheres are very dangerous if inhaled). By all accounts Lizard Skin is a good product but expensive to purchase and for a fraction of the price you can mix the concoction yourself
.
This microspheres products is supposed to inhibit sound and heat transfer. Apparently physics dictates sound and heat cannot pass through a vacuum, microspheres are a vacuum, something like that. I mixed my microspheres with rust inhibitor paint and applied two coats. It's hard to quantify the effects as I used Dynamat too but he's pretty quite in comparison now.

tiicosyncro Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:55 pm

bluefirefly wrote: 1621 wrote: Hopefully someone with a scientific background can enlighten me, but the ceramic paint blocking heat phenomenon seems 'too good to be true'. How does a layer of paint with 'ceramic microspheres', applied to the thickness of a credit card, reduce heat transfer? It just doesn't seem credible. You'd think this stuff would be a huge sensation and have independent studies to support the claims. I've seen little besides some forum posts and an ice cube video which doesn't necessarily 'prove' anything.

1. Are there any independent studies available?
2. What type of heat transfer is it blocking? Radiant, Convection, Conduction?
3. How does it work?

I just thinking that's a lot of money for a product with no research data outside of the manufacturer's claims and some anecdotal stories of success on the Internet. It reminds me of the vortex thing you put on your intake that increases mileage AND horsepower by 30%!

So please help me to understand how laying a coat of ceramic paint makes a difference in heat transfer. I really want something like this to work, but my "spidey-senses" are tingling.

Don't have answer for you, but me think it is close to the ceramic coating for header and exhaust system.

Bingo, bango, bongo

insyncro Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:54 pm

Yes I have not taped some of the areas surrounding the sprayed area to test how difficult this product is to sand off.


insyncro Thu Apr 17, 2014 9:04 pm

westyventures wrote: I'll be very curious to know what is different or 'better' about this sound deadening product vs these three other similar products, some for substantially less cost.

VBD-10 @ $36/gallon
Stealth Kote at $65/gallon
Quietcoat @ $60/gallon

Karl, I did order a few gallons of different products that fall under the same description of sprayable sound deadener.

The biggest difference beside color is how much equal amounts of the products weigh.
The Lizard Skin Sound Control product weighs the most.





I will try to add some of the other products sprayed after the Lizard application is finished.

insyncro Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:25 pm

Spraying the product has been added to the first page of the thread

Merian Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:08 pm

Were those wet wts.? Or dry product sprayed as test strips?

Interesting that the wt. differed among products. I'd always assumed that some large industrial co. made this product for various sellers... i.e. same product (maybe to different specs.) but retailed or wholesaled by various different companies.

insyncro Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:20 pm

Merian wrote: Were those wet wts.? Or dry product sprayed as test strips?

Interesting that the wt. differed among products. I'd always assumed that some large industrial co. made this product for various sellers... i.e. same product (maybe to different specs.) but retailed or wholesaled by various different companies.

All of the products were weighed in the spray cup, full, before sprayed on different vehicles I have around.

Lizard Skin was the most liquidy after being mixed and the darkest in color.

All showed a different cured color as well.

No adhesion issues with any, all prep was the same as shown on page 1.

xoo00oox Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:17 pm

This is a really neat thread. I stopped by Dylan's shop a couple days ago, this work is top notch. Lots of time taken for details. I hope I can arrange a test ride to hear the difference.


Andrew-

insyncro Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:26 pm

My doors are always open for you Andrew.
It is always a pleasure and learning experience talking with you about our "out of the box" directions with the vans.

Thank you for noticing some of the details.
I work very slowly but really do my best to do it right the first time.

As far as a drive...this van is receiving a Bostig and replacement transmission.
So a maiden voyage up to Hoag's Corners shouldn't be an issue :wink:

Still much more to come.

insyncro Tue Apr 22, 2014 8:07 am








Merian Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:24 pm

Will you do any treatments on the top of the engine compartment, and the sloping sheet metal in front of the transmission?

insyncro Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:11 am

Merian wrote: Will you do any treatments on the top of the engine compartment, and the sloping sheet metal in front of the transmission?

Yes multiple layers on the horizontal surfaces, but not covered in this thread as it is just for Lizard Skin at this time.

The finish layer of the floors and pedestals will be sprayed, two part poly urea...aka...truck bed liner.

shizzon Tue May 20, 2014 1:27 pm

I have my galley out, and I'm interested in just doing the interior rearward of the front seats at this point (including transmission tunnel, floor, and engine hatch). Will 4 gal of SC and 2 gal of CI work? Thanks all!

insyncro Thu May 22, 2014 6:26 am

shizzon wrote: I have my galley out, and I'm interested in just doing the interior rearward of the front seats at this point (including transmission tunnel, floor, and engine hatch). Will 4 gal of SC and 2 gal of CI work? Thanks all!

Yes, that is plenty.



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