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  View original topic: 1968 Karmann Ghia IRS rear canter
rwbs04 Tue Sep 02, 2025 8:06 am

Hopefully someone smarter than most can help. I have a 68 Ghia with IRTS. Originally had drums on the rear but I went with a bigger engine so I went with empi disc brakes.

I already lowered the front with 2" drop spindles so I also lowered the rear.

When all said & done I had to change the rim as the bolt pattern was different so I with the BSM which has a 5" backset and running 165's in the rear,

After putting the car on the ground the upper portion of the rear tire rubs the wheel well. I raised the car up a spine and it still rubs.

I checked the canter of the trailing arm at the axle bearing plate and the bottom of that s in closer to engine & the top is level.

I read shimming the spring plates would kick out the bottom but I don't see how that would fix it.... I also have the doubled sided spring plate, not the adjustable

Can anyone tell me what happened or how to correct this? I was told I should be running 195's in the rear so with 165's I'm WAY OFF somewhere?

jeffrey8164 Tue Sep 02, 2025 12:32 pm

I don’t know if I’m gonna be much help. I’m running 195/50s on the back of my Ghia. I’ve also lowered it about an inch by indexing the spring plates. The wheels are 5 1/2 inch with a 5 inch backspace and I don’t have any rubbing in fact I’ve got plenty of room.
When you dropped yours, did you replace all the bushings for the spring plates?
Look at how that spring plate exits the cover if it’s not concentric all the way around you might have a bushing issue that’s causing your weird camber.

Mine has never been hit in the back, so perhaps yours has been hit and the repair wasn’t quite to spec, which is causing your issue.
Just thoughts, I could be wrong and often am.

rwbs04 Tue Sep 02, 2025 1:28 pm

Yes, I have replaced the replaced the spring plate bushings, as well as the trailing arm pivot bushings, replaced the CVS boots as well.

When I originally lowered the car, not being smart, noticed the spring plates (double) where it connects to the trailing arm may have been spread wider trying to fix them together. The bolts hold them place and seem concentric but I wouldn't imagine it would throw the bottom off 1/8" to 1/4" off?

At least that's a expensive start... thanks

rwbs04 Wed Sep 03, 2025 5:23 am

Reevaluating the canter last night, I looked at just the trailing arm and the CV joints without connecting the spring plates and raising the axle to the spot it would connect to the spring plate, I'm still off a few degrees on the canter. So connecting the spring plates has NO effect on the canter.

I should be able to eliminate that, right? I have New trailing arm pivot bushings and made sure the 2 washer where on the outside prior to reinstalling.

I'm at a loss!!!



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