wcfvw69 |
Thu Jun 23, 2016 6:42 pm |
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khalimadeath wrote: Todays work..
wcfvw69-
Looks like im missing those springs you were talking about in your thread, I cleaned the oil bath really well though.
The bracket that holds the ultra rare and hard to find "bowden" cable that controls the pre-heat flap is bent down.
Does your engine have the flaps and thermostat? If so, is there an extra arm coming off the flap like this-
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khalimadeath |
Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:47 pm |
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That bottom pic, Is that the lower portion of the fan shroud? If so I do not have it. |
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khalimadeath |
Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:49 pm |
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Tcash wrote: khalimadeath wrote: So the "new" generator is in, it charges the system as it should. New fan since my old one was cracked.
The generator seems to make a slight whirring noise. Ive listed to some ratwell audio clips of engine noise and it doesnt sound like any of them. It is almost non existent at low rpm's and goes up slightly with the rpm's.
With the engine running, lightly push and pull on the fan housing and see if the fan rubs.
Tcash
I did, no movement and no noises. I did torque the 36mm nut and the pulley nut to 43lbs. No movement back and forth in the generator shaft or play. |
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wcfvw69 |
Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:04 pm |
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khalimadeath wrote: That bottom pic, Is that the lower portion of the fan shroud? If so I do not have it.
You need to put that cooling flap on your used parts search. They are pretty common as they were used on 68-70 bugs, buses and Karmen Ghias. Its too bad the stupid cable is so rare these days. They must have been thrown in the garbage decades ago as it's so rare to see them in place. |
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khalimadeath |
Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:21 pm |
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wcfvw69 wrote: khalimadeath wrote: That bottom pic, Is that the lower portion of the fan shroud? If so I do not have it.
You need to put that cooling flap on your used parts search. They are pretty common as they were used on 68-70 bugs, buses and Karmen Ghias. Its too bad the stupid cable is so rare these days. They must have been thrown in the garbage decades ago as it's so rare to see them in place.
Bummer, Guess ill keep an eye out for it when I go junkin. |
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Tcash |
Fri Jun 24, 2016 10:18 am |
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Contact asiab3 , he has thread on the Cooling Air Control. I can't find it.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=290054
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7862116&highlight=thermostat+flaps#7862116
thanks to jerseylooker[img]
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/EarlyBaywindow/1-046.jpg[/img]
Good luck
Tcash |
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khalimadeath |
Sat Jun 25, 2016 8:46 pm |
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Well Guys, I put the bus through its paces today. I drove the Dubs on the Lake Cruise. I made it the whole way. The oil temps got up there on some of the long hill climbs (about 210*) but most of the drive it was around 180*. I need to square away my timing and re tune the carb but I made it and the bus is safely back in the garage. Thanks for all the help you guys provided over the last 2 years Ive owned this Bus. From driving it home with the throw out bearing in pieces in the bell housing to cruising next to Lake Tahoe I am very happy to own it.
Thanks all.. Here are some pics from the last few days including today.
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khalimadeath |
Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:56 pm |
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Couple questions for tonight
First off I am missing a spring and a washer(s) for the connecting rod. Also what hole does the cotter pin go into? Where can I get said spring and washer?
30 PICT 3 carburator BTW..
What size rivets are used for these parts of the cargo rack? All the sizes I have aren't working.
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khalimadeath |
Wed Jul 13, 2016 4:13 pm |
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Got the top on, its a bit tight but it works. I am pulling my hair out trying to get the h30/31pict tuned up with the 009. I am trying to get my hands on a timing light and even then I wont know how to use it properly. Its the stock crank pully so just the usual timing marks, I have no idea how to set it. It runs but backfires like a MF!
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busdaddy |
Wed Jul 13, 2016 4:30 pm |
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You can static time an 009 for now but you should check it with a light eventually, especially if it's a non German one, 7.5* BTDC.
The rivets for the footmans loops are 3/16" and you should get the backer washers for them as well when used on fiberglass.
As for you carb you'll have to get the springs, etc.. off a swap meet donor, or send it to Volkzbitz for a rebuild. Bentley should explain which hole to start with for the clip. |
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khalimadeath |
Thu Jul 14, 2016 7:24 am |
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Thanks bus daddy. I ended up setting the timing at 30* BTDC with a timing light. I am still having some backfiring issues so I can only assume its the carb since the valves and points have been set. The volume is set at about 2 3/4 turns out and I am not sure as for the bypass. The idle is set at about 950. It backfires after load up at idle and it also backfires after a 2nd or 3rd gear pull then letting off the throttle completely. |
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Tcash |
Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:07 am |
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Make sure the condenser screw is tight.
Float bowl needle and seat may be leaking
Carburetor needle and seat cleaning
Fuel pressure to high? Test and adjust the fuel pressure.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1381649
Intake n Exh leaks
Finding vacuum leaks with smoke (smoke test, tester)
Good luck
Tcash |
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khalimadeath |
Thu Jul 14, 2016 11:39 am |
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Thanks t, ill start going through some of that stuff when I can. The carb is recently rebuilt.. I will be swapping to a different carb soon so would just like this one to run as well as it can while I am driving it. I have been PM'ing Bill and I think I am making some progress. Its mostly small pops on deceleration and sometimes a louder bang! between shifts. |
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khalimadeath |
Mon Nov 28, 2016 12:51 pm |
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SO I have been giving some thought to stripping the yellow paint on the bottom portion of my bus off. I am pretty certain that it is a very old paint job, I have stripped it down to the OG paint in a very small area. The yellowish paint was done properly so its going to be that much harder to get off. The idea of having the bus the OG white color is tempting. The top half is still og.. This yellow paint was likely done without a primer coat, they scuffed the white and sprayed color then clear.
What are your guys thoughts? |
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wcfvw69 |
Mon Nov 28, 2016 12:56 pm |
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khalimadeath wrote: SO I have been giving some thought to stripping the yellow paint on the bottom portion of my bus off. I am pretty certain that it is a very old paint job, I have stripped it down to the OG paint in a very small area. The yellowish paint was done properly so its going to be that much harder to get off. The idea of having the bus the OG white color is tempting. The top half is still og.. This yellow paint was likely done without a primer coat, they scuffed the white and sprayed color then clear.
What are your guys thoughts?
If that repaint was well done and is adhering well, then use it as a primer coat to block sand the bus. Then, you could seal coat it and respray over the top. If the body work is fine and you just want to respray over it, then block sand it with wet/dry sandpaper. Start with say 220 grit then 400 and finally, 600. Spray a sealer over it and then shoot your color.
When I repaint my bus, I'm using the resprayed paint coats that are very well adhered as a primer to block sand it down. I'm sure I'll have to apply some thick epoxy primer over it to continue to block as well.
The only time (IMOP) that a bus needs to be stripped to bare metal is if there is rust under some of the paint or the original paint is failing and lifting or flaking off. VW used good paint and materials back in the day that were baked on at the factory. It's a good foundation to build on. Most new paint primers will adhere or "bite" into existing paint fine. The sealer will obviously seal all the paint/primer under it and the new paint will stick to it. |
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khalimadeath |
Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:13 pm |
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wcfvw69 wrote: khalimadeath wrote: SO I have been giving some thought to stripping the yellow paint on the bottom portion of my bus off. I am pretty certain that it is a very old paint job, I have stripped it down to the OG paint in a very small area. The yellowish paint was done properly so its going to be that much harder to get off. The idea of having the bus the OG white color is tempting. The top half is still og.. This yellow paint was likely done without a primer coat, they scuffed the white and sprayed color then clear.
What are your guys thoughts?
If that repaint was well done and is adhering well, then use it as a primer coat to block sand the bus. Then, you could seal coat it and respray over the top. If the body work is fine and you just want to respray over it, then block sand it with wet/dry sandpaper. Start with say 220 grit then 400 and finally, 600. Spray a sealer over it and then shoot your color.
When I repaint my bus, I'm using the resprayed paint coats that are very well adhered as a primer to block sand it down. I'm sure I'll have to apply some thick epoxy primer over it to continue to block as well.
The only time (IMOP) that a bus needs to be stripped to bare metal is if there is rust under some of the paint or the original paint is failing and lifting or flaking off. VW used good paint and materials back in the day that were baked on at the factory. It's a good foundation to build on. Most new paint primers will adhere or "bite" into existing paint fine. The sealer will obviously seal all the paint/primer under it and the new paint will stick to it.
O no no I certainly do not want to strip the paint down to bare metal, I want to strip the top coat off to the OG paint under it.. like this
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=76072 |
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khalimadeath |
Sun Dec 04, 2016 7:46 pm |
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Put a lot of miles on the bus this weekend. Good times in a small town parade outside Reno. Carson Valley parade of lights..
Then a little off roading to get an xmas tree. I was smashing this bus up a snow covered hill, going sideways in some spots and going through some very muddy ruts. I definitely put her through her paces today. The faces of people in their 4x4's was priceless.
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khalimadeath |
Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:13 am |
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So I am about 99% sure my transmission is going out. 3rd and 4th gear on throttle makes aggressive humming noise. When I turn left the noise goes away, when I turn right it continues, off throttle no noise no matter the speed or direction. CV joints are freshly packed and wheel bearings are recently greased.
Anyhow where is the best place to get a transmission from if I cant find one in town. I want a stock ratio transmission. |
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Abscate |
Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:34 am |
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If a wheel bearing is going, greasing won't help.
Check front and back bearings on right side.
I'm no diff expert, but a diff failure on one load side sounds rare to me. Get some advice from Sambinistas who have been inside the diff. |
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khalimadeath |
Wed Feb 01, 2017 9:52 am |
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So it seems my bus may be ready for a tune up after 4k solid miles. Last week the bus started sputtering between 45 and 65 mph. I would be driving then sudden cut out then going again. My tach would show the fluctuation if the brief cut out. My first thought was dirty fuel filter, so I replaced that. It solved the problem for about 100 miles then it started doing it again, this time badly. It even died at a stop light and wouldn't start again for about a min. This was after a 15 min drive on the highway.
After reading some threads I think that it may be my points or dirty carb.. I have done some pretty good off-roading/mudding/ snow driving and the engine bay is quite dirty. I have a rebuilt carb and distributor I have been procrastinating putting on, I guess I don't have much of a choice now. So I will replace those and see how it runs. Ill also clean the air filter again.
If that doesn't work, what are your thoughts? Fuel pump? Fuel line? ( the lines are only about 4k miles old as I replaced them. The spark plugs are only 4k mile sold, I suppose I could pull them and check em out too. |
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