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Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:31 pm

009's are known for the flat spot.
You can try and lube it. Pull the dist. cap and rotor. Under the rotor is a piece of wool. Pull that out and put a few drops of motor oil down the shaft. Put the wool back in and lube it. Lube the advance weights, under the breaker plate. The plate the points sit on. Grab the rotor and twist it clockwise a few time. It should return smoothly and with no resistance.
With the 009 you still are going to have a slight flat spot.
Adjust the accelerator pump per the manual.
Measure the pump volume. You can get the vial from a chemist supply. Or make one out of a eye dropper. The key here is to see how many cc's the pump is putting out and adjust accordingly.

Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:23 am

someone has to have the solution to this .. 1776 , 34 pict 3 , compu fire dis lx. when i push the accelerator there is a slight hesitation, kind of sputters until it gets turning, is there a better setup ? I read the some of the posts and some of the suggestions are

1. larger main jet ? if so what is the best solution ?
2. SVDA distributor ?

I plan on doing a long drive in this bus, eliminating the flat spot would make like more enjoyable. I have read thru some of the posts and its kind of hard to figure out the preferred setup. keep in mind the carb is new, as well rebuilt motor. so this is not situation of something needs to be diagnosed to make what I have work better.

Anyone know who to resolve this ? I could live with it if I and to but if there is a way to fix it I would prefer to do that ....

Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:58 am

Bala wrote: 1. Get a vacuum advance dist.

I ran a 1776 with a 34 PICT in a beetle for a while. Swapped the main jet for a larger one, and it worked just fine (ran fine before, the larger get just seemed increase the power a bit).

Also, take the air cleaner off the carb and make sure the injector tube is aimed directly where the butterfly first opens.

Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:11 am

Air cooled .net suggested using the the petronics SVDA ..

I wonder if I bit the bullet and went to dual carbs, something I have resisted just to avoid having to tune two carbs .. would this remedy it...

I have a spare main jet ... I think I will drill out as suggested in one of the tune up posts .. and see how much of an improvement that makes as a first item to try.

Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:26 am

I am glad i read this first it makes a lot of sense ...
http://www.vw-resource.com/009_dizzy-34_carb.html

24% fuel consumption increase is a lot ...

Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:05 am

David,

What brand of "new" 34-3 carb is it? Is it EMPI? My 1776 had the bad flat spot off idle as well. When I bought the bus a few weeks before, the previous owner had installed this EMPI 34-3 carb. I made a video of the slop in the linkage that would contribute to this off idle flat spot.

I had a spare, known good, 30/31 Brosal carb in my spares. I cleaned it up, blew it all out and installed it with the adapter to fit the larger manifold. I drove it down the street and it was night/day over the POS EMPI carb. The flat spot was gone with my 009 distributor.

Some people have success with a freshly rebuilt German Solex 34-3 carb and the 009. My understanding is they run a fatter main jet and increase the tension on the squirt pump so there's no "lag" when you touch the throttle.

Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:27 pm

It does not matter what carb, distributor or anything else without an Air fuel Raito gauge IMO you will NEVER get your bus running to its full potential, with it you can make even a crappy carb run decent ;0)

The reason all modern cars on the road run relatively well is because they use an O2 sensor….. having one will catapult you’re T2 into the modern era and out of the voodoo science of carb tuning… if you are thinking of buying a bullet might as well make it a silver bullet :0)

There are already so many variables in your engine combination( Compression Raito is different than stock, ignition different than stock, carb different than OEM stock, etc.) and trying to guess what your AFR is when your engine is hot or cold; by looking, feeling or smelling the differences is virtually impossible, so unless you tune cars for a living and are good at it, unless you get very lucky you will waste money and time trying to do the impossible( tune your carb without an AFR ratio gauge) Having an AFR ratio gauge will allow you to eliminate carb issues as the cause of any problems and IMO they are 75%+ of issues in tuning 40+ year old ACVW’s

If you plan to keep your bus, I guarantee the AFR ratio gauge will pay for its self many times over in money and time saved!

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2926 (be sure to check ask for wiring sufficiently long for a T2 Bus)

PS your engine combination may not run its best with stock timing at idle & off idle other than an AFR gauge, a plane old vacuumed gauge can tell you a lot about your engine and the possible causes for your hesitation… :

You won’t believe how many things you can determine just by connecting a vacuum gauge to an engine :0)

Checking the engines intake manifold vacuum

Helps Detect:
Small Vacuum leaks(intake system)-
Worn Rings-
Sticking Valves-
Burnt or Leaking Valves-
Worn Valve Guides-
Week Valve springs-
Late Valve Timing-
Retarded ignition Timing-
Major Intake Leak-
Blown Head Gasket-
Clogged Exhaust System-
Improperly adjusted idle mixture-

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm (Not VW but good explanations)
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=457

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ANM-CP7802 ($16.95)

These Actron vacuum and pressure test kits can check for leaks in your intake manifold, gaskets, or valvetrain. They include an easy-to-read 3 1/2 in. diameter face that displays vacuum (0-30 in.) and pressure (0-10 lbs. or 0-15lbs.) so you can tune your air/fuel induction system. The kits also include hose adapters and rubber hose.

Sat Nov 15, 2014 9:18 am

I am considering replacing a few of the metal Brake lines. One in particular seems a bit weak and the nut is beat up.

anyone have a good source for metal lines for a 70 bus, bus Depot is back ordered indefinitely. How hard is it to bend lines if I buy the tools is it worth the effort to make them ? alternative ?

Sat Nov 15, 2014 10:01 am

The bus uses ISO flare. Try and find the lines pre-made. There is a way to make the ISO flare with a double flare tool. But it has been my experience that unless you buy a professional flare tool the flares do not come out right.

Try Wolfsburg West.
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/SearchResults.cfm

Good Luck

Sun Nov 16, 2014 5:04 pm

Finally got to the SVDA dist , i removed the compu fire dis ix ... and replaced it with a SVDA .. what a huge difference it made. Took care of every bit of the hesitation. The motor tunes up better.. good days work !

Fri Nov 21, 2014 9:34 pm

I have had this intermittent issue with loss of electrical power. I am assuming it was the fuse for the coil/starter. When I turned the key the starter would either click once or twice but not turn over and the light charge light would not come on.
I thought it was the battery so I had my battery checked its good.

Today I drove down the street lost all power the motor died completely. Lucky I was right in front of my house so I pushed it home. I checked the fuses and twisted each one at a time then the bus started up again. I took out the fuses all had corrosion.cleaned them all and the fuse box connectors.

is there anything else I should do to the fuse box or the fuses ?

is it worth the effort to upgrade the fuse box ? Now that I have my wiring straightened out it would not be a massive chore. to replace the fuse box ?

Fri Nov 21, 2014 9:46 pm

How are the ground conections on the starter and the battery?

Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:03 pm

I have had this issue for a few days since I but this motor in, I have yet to drive the car more than today up the block. I kept thinking it was the key because I would loose power to the coil wire. This time I messed wight he key and no luck it was not until I touched the fuses then it started up. All of the fuses have a nice coat of grime and corrosion. since cleaning it has not repeated the event.

I have lot of bugs to work on this bus, cleaned up all the wiring on under the dash and in the engine, new motor ect.

good idea though I will clean the bat ground ... a couple mouths ago I did all the wiring and cleaned all the connections for the lights but I did not do the fuse box or the bat ground. I did install a new ground strap on the transaxle.

Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:06 pm

I hear my clutch bearing at idle ...not supper load but I can hear it spinning.

its been sometime since i have driven this bus so I am not sure if I am just listening closer or if this is normal ...

Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:14 pm

david2676 wrote: I have had this intermittent issue with loss of electrical power. I am assuming it was the fuse for the coil/starter. When I turned the key the starter would either click once or twice but not turn over and the light charge light would not come on.
I thought it was the battery so I had my battery checked its good.

Today I drove down the street lost all power the motor died completely. Lucky I was right in front of my house so I pushed it home. I checked the fuses and twisted each one at a time then the bus started up again. I took out the fuses all had corrosion.cleaned them all and the fuse box connectors.

is there anything else I should do to the fuse box or the fuses ?

is it worth the effort to upgrade the fuse box ? Now that I have my wiring straightened out it would not be a massive chore. to replace the fuse box ?

Also check the wire connections on the back of the fuse box. My main power wire's connector, the piece that slides on the tab (sorry, can't think of what it is called) was loose. We squeezed the connector to make it tighter and slid it back on the tab. All has been well ever since. :D