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  View original topic: Front End Rebuild Advice
tmckinn Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:52 pm

warning - long post :D

Hi - I've owned my '70 Ghia for 4 years now and haven't touched the front end (except to replace brake hoses, rotors, pads, & wheel bearings). This year I plan to rebuild the front as preventative maintenance and besides I have no idea when it was last reworked in the past 34 years.

I've done a couple searches here and on ShopTalkForums but haven't found anything that answers my specific questions.

I compared the cost of replacing the components versus buying the whole front beam (which don't include tie rod ends and steering dampner). I figure I'll save over $200 if buy the components separately and do the work myself. I figure I need tie rod ends, ball joints, steering coupler, steering damper, seals, sway bar bushings, oil shocks, and a new Harbor Freight Shop Press (to R&R the ball joints). I have one of those nifty bolt presses to remove the ball joints and tie rod ends left over from when I redid the ball joints on my Type 181 back in 1991.

So here are my questions:
1 - Are there any parts that I'm overlooking. I wasn't planning on replacing the needle bearings (provided they don't look bad) - is that okay?

2 - I've always wanted a shop press so this is great opportunity to get one. I know Harbor Freight isn't stellar quality but I figure it's good enough for what I need and for as many times as I'll use it. This press has a working distance of 3"-9" - will that be okay for the ball joints?
[http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4711]

3 - I wasn't planning on removing the gas tank - will I be sorry later if I don't?

I'm looking foward to finally replacing those KYB White stiffies with the oil Boges shocks. The front end rebuild will complete my total restoration (except for the engine which just keeps on putting out).

Thanks in advance

Tom
'70 Ghia cabrio (with recent conversion to stick)

Glenn Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:57 pm

If you buy a complete beam they usually have cheap parts to keep the cost down. Buy German parts and it will last longer.

2- You need special fixtures to replace ball joints. Just having a press isn't enough.


3- You need to remove the tank to get to the top bolts and it makes the whole job alot easier.



Take a look at my resto site: http://www.glenn-ring.com/resto/resto8.html

Air-Cooled Head Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:36 am

Think Glenn covered it all.
I did what you're planning. Took about 3-4 hours.
You can get the BJ tool that's pictured for HF for about $40.
Good Luck!

Air-Cooled Head Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:37 am

Think Glenn covered it all.
I did what you're planning. Took about 3-4 hours.
You can get the BJ tool that's pictured for HF for about $40.
Good Luck!

tmckinn Thu Jan 08, 2004 12:03 pm

Thanks for the quick replies.
quote]2- You need special fixtures to replace ball joints. Just having a press isn't enough.[/quote]

- Is this tool used to remove the ball joint from the spindles (instead of a pickle fork)? Or is this used in conjection with a press?

- I take it, replacing the needle bearings isn't a must (unless, or course, they're damaged).

Thanks.

keifernet Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:16 pm

tmckinn wrote: Thanks for the quick replies.
quote]2- You need special fixtures to replace ball joints. Just having a press isn't enough.

- Is this tool used to remove the ball joint from the spindles (instead of a pickle fork)? Or is this used in conjection with a press?

- I take it, replacing the needle bearings isn't a must (unless, or course, they're damaged).

Thanks.[/quote]


the kind of tool Glenn74 posted is to remove and install the ball joints and not have to take the torsion arms off the car. In other words if you can rent or locate such tool then you do not need a press(

BTW aircooledhead... where is this place that has a tool like that for 40 bucks.... you mean rental I presume?

the tool shown is jsut like mine and was made by OTC tool co. but while they offer a similar setup it is not like the ones Glenn and I have as they do not inculde the "VW specific" parts in a kit for sale anymore.

see this link....

http://www.otctools.com/frames-catalog.php3

they also offer an expansion kit with more adaptors but.... I think you are only wanting to do this one front end so it would be better to just rent a suitable tool or take the arms off and have a shop press them in and out on a heavy duty press. I am not so sure the one you wanted to buy will be heavy enough...

as far as the needle bearings, you would have to take the arms off to inspect them ( and the arms) for wear.... only if the car had a hard life and was not greased often will they be in need of replacement... if it was greased at decent intervals then they should be ok, but only a visual can say for sure.

tmckinn Mon Jan 12, 2004 9:59 pm

Sorry to be asking so many questions. Just want to make sure I have all the necessary tools/parts BEFORE I start the job.

The ball joint press Glenn talks about is a "C" shaped tool that removes and installs the ball joint without removing the trailing arm from the beam. From what I understand, this is the only ball joint tool that is needed (no hydraulic shop press, etc.)

Harbor Freight has a ball joint press kit similar to Glenn's. http://www.harborfreight.com search on ITEM 38335-6VGA. $40.

But, from what I understand this from keifernet, the Harbor Freight tool doesn't have the necessary adapters for VW-specific ball joints.

Therefore, I should just remove the trailing arms and take them to a shop (any old shop, I presume). To have them remove and replace the ball joints from the trailing arms.

Is that all correct?

Thanks again.
Tom

keifernet Tue Jan 13, 2004 12:12 pm

If you are only doing this one time for yourself then IMO you do not need to buy a press or any specialty tools.

order up the best ball joints ( German made "Febi" brand) you can get and take your arms off and take them to a competent front end/ tire type shop and make sure they know that the joints have tabs/notches on them and they line up one direction only and pay them to press them out/in.

they should charge you a " flat bench rate" to do this maybe as little as 35 bucks.



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