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Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:38 am

Yes, temporarily. I'm working to get Gus stripped & primered, then running & registered. I'd like to drive it to learn what it needs before sending it down to TJ for welding & paint.

Ellie (daughter's 1964 Beetle) has some parts coming to be installed, so we're still working on it. With the 102F daytime & 80F nighttime temperatures, it's hard finding the motivation to do both cars.

Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:14 pm

More paint stripping on the left rear cab panel. The lower rocker section is filled with bondo so that'll need to be cut-out & replaced. Looks like Wolfsburg West is now stocking AutoCraft UK panels (better fit & thicker steel but more expensive than green parts from Columbia). The entire DC rocker panel set is about $700, not as much as I'd expected.

Got the original slash rear bumper installed today to clean-up the rear end. Doesn't fit right on the corners because of the mis-shapen metal corners, but it's on for now.

Fri Sep 19, 2014 6:34 am

Love seeing the progress man keep it going

Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:22 pm

The WW parts box was delivered today with the new decklid hinges & screws. Since the hinges had been broken-off and the screws were all stripped, I used the Speed-Out tool to remove the screws. Took about 10 minutes to get all four out. Nice when a tool works as advertised. The new hinges & seals went in easily. But when I tried to bolt the hinges to the decklid I noticed there was nothing there to attach it to! Guess a new decklid is on the list of parts. I got the decklid fitted onto the rear to help clean-up the back end.

Next I installed the old California license plate set in the rear with the Cape Girardeau VW dealership frame. And in the front I installed the Missouri 1963 farm truck license plate I'd found online to honor its Missouri heritage.

Sat Sep 20, 2014 3:24 pm

This weekend the paint stripping continues. The roof & cab section was next. Tessa (7) climbed up into the bed to help wipe off the paint dust. No suprises so far, just nice clean bright steel underneath the ugly paint.

And on mid-day Saturday I asked the family who wanted to go for the first drive in Gus. Tessa (7) declined stating "it's too dirty, Dad!" but Kathe & Alllison (15) jumped in the front seat with me & we cruised the neighborhood through 1st & 2nd gears. I asked them if they thought we should install safari windows or not and they both say "YES, it's hot in here!".

Sun Sep 21, 2014 6:21 pm

Awesome

Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:03 pm

Lee Hedges wrote:
And on mid-day Saturday I asked the family who wanted to go for the first drive in Gus. Tessa (7) declined stating "it's too dirty, Dad!" but Kathe & Alllison (15) jumped in the front seat with me & we cruised the neighborhood through 1st & 2nd gears. I asked them if they thought we should install safari windows or not and they both say "YES, it's hot in here!".

why are you making them sit up front on the bitch seat? the best spot in a doka is in the backseat! :)

Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:03 pm

Love the progress what did u use IN the paint stripping?

Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:26 pm

Lee Hedges wrote: The WW parts box was delivered today with the new decklid hinges & screws. Since the hinges had been broken-off and the screws were all stripped, I used the Speed-Out tool to remove the screws. Took about 10 minutes to get all four out. Nice when a tool works as advertised. The new hinges & seals went in easily. But when I tried to bolt the hinges to the decklid I noticed there was nothing there to attach it to! Guess a new decklid is on the list of parts. I got the decklid fitted onto the rear to help clean-up the back end.

Next I installed the old California license plate set in the rear with the Cape Girardeau VW dealership frame. And in the front I installed the Missouri 1963 farm truck license plate I'd found online to honor its Missouri heritag
It should have had California commercial license plates.

Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:41 pm

To answer the comments:
- the girls CHOSE to sit up front
- the old CA plate set is from a 1963 Chevy Greenbrier that was shipped out of state, so I recycled them for the truck. Now that I know better, I'm on the search for a set of commercial CA plates that have M (Missouri), 63 or 265. That severely limits my choices, so it may take some time.
- I'm using a new DA orbital electric sander ($65 Harbor Freight) with 80 & 240 grit round disks that attach via velcro-type technology. I use the 80 grit to cut the three layers of paint but not removing the last primer layer. Then I use the 240 grit to remove the last primer layer & buff the rust areas to a bright shine.

Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:11 pm

Friday's are always great days to work on my vintage VWs. The wife & kids are gone for the entire day and there is no one home to hand me honey-do's. A new tool had been delivered yesterday, so I took that as a sign that I should focus on that task today.

I'd bought the stock side mirror parts from WW: round mirrors, clamps, and arms for both the left & right sides. Very impressed with the quality & fit of these parts! I'd done a bit of research on theSamba forums on the best method to remove the upper door hinge pins. The easiest method recommended soaking the pins for three days prior to doing the work, buying the right tool, and taking your time.

The tool I bought was a hinge pin removal tool from Bob Drake Reproductions. It cost $25 and was delivered in three days. It's so nice when a tool works as advertised! Again, this one gets my highest recommendation.
HINGE PIN TOOL: https://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=TL-100

With the lubricant applied I chose the right metal pin to install into the tool that fit over the upper door hinge. Then I used a 19mm socket to slowly tighten-down the screw, forcing the pin upwards. It took less than two minutes to get the right side pin out, easy! I kept the door closed to avoid the hinge dropping off, and quickly slid the new mirror arm into the hinge hole. With some WD-40 it slowly worked its way down. A 13mm socket was used to tighten the lower nut to keep the arm in-place. The left side was a bit different because the lower nut had rusted onto the bottom threads and was not able to be removed. So I used one of the metal pins with a hammer to pound the pin down out from the hole, easy! This side took less than a minute.

It took a couple minutes to get the mirror clamps onto the arm & mirror. Then it took some more time to sit in the truck and get the mirrors adjusted properly. Then I used an 8mm wrench with a flat blade screwdriver to tighten the small nut down really hard. This kept the clamp from moving around on the arm.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:10 am

COMMERCIAL LICENSE PLATES: Since the truck needs to have commercial California black & gold plates, I began searching for a set that had some meaningful numbers. M for Missouri, or 63 for the year, or even 265 for Model 265 (Double Cab). I found an ebay auction with 265 but it had been running for a month with a $450 price tag. So I contacted the seller and offered to buy the set for $200, sharing my story about the truck. He called, liked the story, & agreed to the deal!

When the plates arrived they had obviously been used for many years and had a nice patina to them. I soaked the decals in WD-40 overnight and used an Exacto blade to remove the old decals. Then I decided to preserve the patina by clear-coating the plates. This gave them a nice shine. And then they were mounted on the truck.

Tue Oct 07, 2014 5:13 pm

Lee Hedges wrote: But when I tried to bolt the hinges to the decklid I noticed there was nothing there to attach it to! Guess a new decklid is on the list of parts.

I had a similar problem with one of the treasure chest doors on my SC. One of the damn POs had used two 3" long sheet metal screws to "repair" one of the hinges. The hinge was still pretty darn loose and the door wouldn't open. After living with it for about 5 years, I finally bought some nutserts (aka rivnuts or rivet-nuts):
http://www.homeprofasteners.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=675
I drilled the holes out to 3/8", installed the inserts and finally had a functioning treasure chest door on that side. If my truck was a single-chester, it probably would've gotten done sooner.

Tue Oct 07, 2014 5:56 pm

Lee,

It's nice to see your progress on your new DC and to see your enthusiasm! I'll be watching your progress. Enjoy that DC!!!

Bill Bowman

Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:23 am

GATES: The original truck drop-gates were pretty rough, functional but with surface rust & rust weakening the lower hinges. When I stripped the outside of the gates the bare metal underneath was in good shape. But the cost to buy replacement metal panels for the lower gates & cost to get them welded & finished would be expensive.

During this past weekend at the Cayucos Type 3 Rally on the Central California coast, I spent some time talking with Notchback owner Jacin & Ami Ferreria. I told them about my new 1963 truck and they said they had a really nice pair of side gates that would solve my problem. They gave me a reasonable price and got a $150 shipping cost via Greyhound from Northern California to San Diego. So I agreed to buy the side gates. I'll be offering up my original side gates to anyone that needs a functional set.

Fri Oct 10, 2014 2:51 pm

Another Friday so another installment of the work: continued stripping the paint off the front nose after the bumper was removed. Not too bad with many small holes at the base of the lip and a couple of dents down low. Worst rust is the lower lip.

Sprayed the etching primer then sanded then applied the first coats of L345 Light Gray (WW spray paint). I really like the gray on the white bumpers & emblem, perfectly simple for a Missouri farm truck.

And here's the close-up of the lower portion of the front.

Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:05 pm

I bet there's more rust hiding, but overall not bad at all.
What's your plan with the truck? Seems like you're bouncing all over...

Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:53 pm

My priority is to get it driving. The OCTO Meet is coming up on 25 Oct so I've set that as my goal. Finish stripping & painting. New windshields & seals, seat belts, & interior panels. Then get the electrical working (brakes, headlights, turn signals, & horn). Once it's registered & insured then drive it around to work-out the issues before driving up to Long Beach for the OCTO Meet.

Once it's mechanically sorted then it'll go south to Alex Villegas for welding-in fresh panels for the rockers. Then it'll go to bodywork & paint. Then I'll bring it home and reassemble it.

Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:13 pm

Lee Hedges wrote:
Sprayed the etching primer then sanded then applied the first coats of L345 Light Gray (WW spray paint). I really like the gray on the white bumpers & emblem, perfectly simple for a Missouri farm truck.

just to give you something to shoot for:

this one is original paint, 348km (at the time it was found)

Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:44 pm

Lee Hedges wrote: My priority is to get it driving. The OCTO Meet is coming up on 25 Oct so I've set that as my goal. Finish stripping & painting. New windshields & seals, seat belts, & interior panels. Then get the electrical working (brakes, headlights, turn signals, & horn). Once it's registered & insured then drive it around to work-out the issues before driving up to Long Beach for the OCTO Meet.

Once it's mechanically sorted then it'll go south to Alex Villegas for welding-in fresh panels for the rockers. Then it'll go to bodywork & paint. Then I'll bring it home and reassemble it.

No mention of registering it. Have you been able to do that? I hope you don't wait until the last minute. This bus seems to have some challenges in that department. Good Luck!