| jbclem |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 2:21 am |
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My 1965 Bug has a right front wheel that is almost frozen, won't spin until I back off the adjusters to the point where the brake pedal is very low. I want to replace the rubber brake hose as it could be plugged up and preventing the brake shoes from retracting. But loosening the brake hose where the metal hose treads into it has been impossible so far, it probably hasn't been removed for many years, if ever.
Any suggestions? If I can't get the hose off, I'm thinking I might remove the wheel cylinder and try to run a wire into the hose to try to unplug it, has anyone tried doing this?
John |
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| wagen19 |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 2:42 am |
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jbclem wrote: My 1965 Bug has a right front wheel that is almost frozen, won't spin until I back off the adjusters to the point where the brake pedal is very low. I want to replace the rubber brake hose as it could be plugged up and preventing the brake shoes from retracting. But loosening the brake hose where the metal hose treads into it has been impossible so far, it probably hasn't been removed for many years, if ever.
Any suggestions? If I can't get the hose off, I'm thinking I might remove the wheel cylinder and try to run a wire into the hose to try to unplug it, has anyone tried doing this?
John
It makes no sense to run a wire into the hose. If plugged, install 2 new hoses.
Are you sure, all your wheel cylinders are OK?
It sounds also, your brake fluid can be rather old and a complete inspection of the braking system and wheel bearings, all drums off, wouldn´t be the worst idea. |
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| wdfifteen |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 5:21 am |
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The rusted-on brake line is a sign that your whole brake system needs a refresh. If the hose has been on that wheel cylinder that long, the cylinder is probably worn out, and if the front hoses and cylinders are worn out, the rears and the master are also ready for replacement. They are cheap, get new ones.
Don't try to Mickey Mouse your way into marginally functioning brakes. Fix them properly. It's not money - it's your life.
I happen to have an almost new front wheel cylinder for my '65 that you can have cheap. PM me if you want it. |
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| Cusser |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 6:25 am |
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Replace ALL your flexible brake hoses with new, and I'd do same with your wheel cylinders.
And that way you don't need to disconnect the stuck brake line from the wheel cylinder.
SAFETY for you, and OTHERS on the road. |
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| zerotofifty |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 9:10 am |
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Dont try to reuse an old hose that is clogged, get new, replace all four. Time to inspect all five cylinders, make sure the metal lines are not rusty also.
If stock, you Bug has the old single circuit master, which means if ANY hose or cylinder fails with a leak, you loose ALL braking except for the hand brake!!!!
Dont skimp on this.
You may need a torch to heat the fitting to loosen it, heat often works, BUT beware of fuel fumes from the near by fuel tank, old fuel hoses can weep, and the tank vent hose is down there too, Plug the vent hose, or pull it up into the trunk, assure no fuel fumes before lighting the torch.
Also you may try a thread penetrate like PB Power Blaster or such, give it time to work, maybe even over night
for wrenches, use a flare nut type wrench, one that is a six point box wrench with a slot in the box end that allows the tube or hose to slip in. An open end wrench can spin and strip the hex on really tight fittings.
Flare nut wrenches...
https://www.bing.com/search?q=flare+nut+wrench&...mp;pc=LCTS
Good luck
Stop safe!!! |
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| wagen19 |
Tue Apr 22, 2025 9:20 am |
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zerotofifty wrote: Dont try to reuse an old hose that is clogged, get new, replace all four. Time to inspect all five cylinders, make sure the metal lines are not rusty also.
If stock, you Bug has the old single circuit master, which means if ANY hose or cylinder fails with a leak, you loose ALL braking except for the hand brake!!!!
Dont skimp on this.
You may need a torch to heat the fitting to loosen it, heat often works, BUT beware of fuel fumes from the near by fuel tank, old fuel hoses can weep, and the tank vent hose is down there too, Plug the vent hose, or pull it up into the trunk, assure no fuel fumes before lighting the torch.
Also you may try a thread penetrate like PB Power Blaster or such, give it time to work, maybe even over night
for wrenches, use a flare nut type wrench, one that is a six point box wrench with a slot in the box end that allows the tube or hose to slip in. An open end wrench can spin and strip the hex on really tight fittings.
Flare nut wrenches...
https://www.bing.com/search?q=flare+nut+wrench&...mp;pc=LCTS
Good luck
Stop safe!!!
>> check the long metal line especially in the area around the brake pedal! |
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